allow me to chime in as I've seen the plug wire problem first hand.
a broken plug wire can result in the car misfiring at idle, you'll her the exhaust sputter a bit more then usual and at very high load, the misfire is much more noticable.

If you have a timing light, it's pretty easy to test the wires.

 

I don't consider using a timing light a definitive diagnostic and I am not going to start issuing new plug wire sets based on that, alone.

 

why not?
if there's no induction pick up and all other probable issues have been checked; ground wire, wire harness, etc then why wouldn't this be a solid method?
Unless you want us to take the wires off but then we know what will happen.

 

Because I have no idea as to the condition of the timing light, per se, nor the end-user's ability to use it properly.

 

Well, that sounds interesting. I, too, was wondering what's up.

 

Which part, the shrugging or the bellweather?

 

All three, the Atlas, the shrugging, and the bellwether.

 

I assuming you are referring to the people who had their subscriptions expire.
What about those of us currently getting tunes through Jeff?
Is he just adjusting the dwell as he sends us our updated map (as long as we noted having the BHR coils on our "11 questions" sheet)?
No reason for you to send (or pay for) another updated map with us currently going through the tuning process.

 

I am always surprised as to how my statements are interpreted around here.

What I was trying to say was that, no matter the situation with regard to your MM "subscription", you will be all set at no expense to yourself, nor your account, as I have decided it as MY responsibility to take care of my BHR Ignition System customers. If Jeff charges me for his time that is between he and I. Let me try it THIS way;

1) If you are a customer of MM's you will get an updated map that includes the new dwell settings.
2) If you have a Cobb AP purchased elsewhere, tell your "tuner" to set the dwell to 5 mS.
3) If you have some other form of engine-management, set your dwell to 5 mS.
4) If you are N/A and have no form of re-flash/EMS, you will be fine.

If there are any two things I am good at it is taking care of my customers and organizing stuff for the best outcome.

 

Charles,
is it ok to say that a modded NA rx8 will have no problems with stock dwell settings but changing them will provide a further benefit?
You know that i know the answer but your words have way more power than mines here.

 

Yeah, something like that with the exception of 7+ PSI F/I systems.

I am really losing interest in the discussion about this and want to focus on dispatching the updated maps. To me, at this point now, the outcomes are my focus and not the discussion.

 

so..... what you're saying is we need maps but not everyone is getting them?

Sorry Ray, couldn't resist.
Alright guys, lets stop beating a dead horse here, looks like the solution has been identified and I for one am EXCITED to be getting the 'fix' soon. Can't wait to see what these things are truly capable of.

 

No sh*t man! I'm feeling like I'm about ready to drop 5 bills to get me a set, but I don't need them right now..

 

Charles...

Do you think you can get MM to post up a screen shot of the correct AP dwell map?

 

/\ heh . Good luck with that one ....

 

that's not going to happen.

 

I got my kit in the mail yesterday so they should be going on the car tomorrow hopefully. I'll let everyone know impressions when I have them installed. I also got my Tsunami bumper installed and the car detailed. I removed the extraneous stickers etc... the car looks.... omg amazing. Pics in a bit.

 

If rotor bought BHR kit - but tunes himself with the AP why would he not get a dwell map for it????

 

he's not asking for a map, he wants a screen shot. Jeff isn't fond of posting screen shots of any of his AP maps.
The correct dwell setting have already been posted here.

 

It is not that simple Jedi - there is a 3D Dwell Map in our PCM - not just a single number.

How about I post one up? I'll get my first draft one tonight. Though I haven't been able to test it as much as Jeff has.

 

doesnt the oem dwell map have a good amount of dwell in it? We Pettit guys with Cam's flash are running oem dwell settings(as far as we can tell anyway). I think we will be OK.
Seriously--I really appreciate the honesty and education present on this thread. Your business long term goal success just got bumped up a notch imho.
olddragger

 

Thanks Ray---good to know if I ever want to get the max out of them.
Heck my redline now is 7.5K-8K and I bumped down the plug gap a little. Still getting a 305 g/sec from my maf at 7.7K.
Sounds like the Pettits guys can benefit from this system(for sure) but for us monkey mechanics working in the backyard with the dogs/squirrels (have you ever had a discussion with a Jack Russel terrier about how we are going to get that seized bolt out?) and diy'ing it looks that we are not in any danger with the oem settings IF we dont push it any harder. 8 lbs of boost is where I am.
following with interest and gratitude.
live the good life and rotor on!
olddragger

 

Here are the factory Dwell - and the Dwell Changes I have made to date.

This is why I am pretty sure that both the AP and the ProTuner are both not TRULY measuring dwell in MS - since the factory map is way above 5ms.

Since we know the factory ignition is about 3-3.8ms; I just modifyed it by 130-150% and smoothed it some. It works great on PunisherRX8's car.

Also the Yukon coils have an 8ms cap on them - so you will never be able to get them to run longer than that.

 

Once I get to the Dyno - I'll be able to adjust these some more - the goal is too keep backing the dwell down until I lose some power / get misfires... that will tell me for the car they are on - what is the minimum dwell I can get away with.

PS - If Ray wants me to remove this I will - it is his thread after all.

 

sweet! keep us updated