can you explain why it will kill the turbo?
is it that the oil comes out frothy and will block the drain line? or is there pressure in the block that pushes oil up the line?

 

Logically you would think that the oil in the return line at the highest level would just stay equal to the highest level in the pan. This isn't so when the ar is running though. If the turbo return line drains into the pan below oil level, the oil will actually not have enough time to equalize out and it will backup into the turbo. The oil in the pan works as a restriction in the return line. Since the oil is under pressure, the oil trying to enter the turbo will back up when it hits the non or slower flowing oil and this will put stress on the turbo oil seals and oil will leak around them into the exhaust or intake side of the turbo. You'll see smoke out the exhaust. It will end up killing the turbo seals. Bad idea. The drain level needs to be above oil level so there is an unrestricted flow of oil back to the pan. On the turbo RX-7's, Mazda ran the oil return back to the front cover rather than the pan. This drained it straight down into the pan but it was well above oil level.

 

So true and "all your base are belong to us!" --> synonymous to you got owned biatch.

 

Hey RG/or anyone who wants to tackle this issue;

Do you think it is necessary to get a larger oil pan if we do get a turbo/supercharger kit? Benefits? Also you mentioned that "on the turbo RX-7's, Mazda ran the oil return back to the front cover rather than the pan." I noticed that the GReddy turbo kit had some oil return config that routed oil back into the oil pan (need philodox to confirm this). On the 8, how can we run the oil return to the front cover (if we have are running a turbo) correctly?

 

I don't think you neccessarily need a new larger oil pan. However, a turbo does have oil running through it which it heats up. More oil is more to heat but unless you are really hard on it, this shouldn't be an issue.

Atkins Rotary has roots supercharger kits for the 12A and 13B rotary engine. They need oil to be fed to them just like a turbo does. Atkins drills and taps a return line into the front cover down near the oil metering pump. You still need to take the pan off the get the metal shavings out. This is the way to do it properly but it does take a little longer. It probably doesn't take as much time to do this as it does to replace your turbo.

 

Thanks for lightning fast reply RG! Atkins is all the way up in Washington. I guess we need to source out some competent fab shops in Southern Cal. Do you think we can run an oil return by tapping into one of the oil cooler lines? The word drilling frightens me a bit (especially if you have to remove the oil pan to remove shavings... *gulp*).

 

Removal of the oil pan is really not that difficult a proposition. Plus, we can access all of the bolts.

CRH

 

Momma Atkins is driving a Supercharged Red RX8 currently by the way...

 

Reallly!?

I check Atkins website every now and then to see if theyre going to offer services for the RX-8. Guess its just a one time custom job.

 

I might swing by on the 26th on the way home if I have time just to check out the shop and see if Dan is around. I'm bugging him right now by PM for a ride in the SC RX8 :D

 

He's got the greddy oil pans in stock. Price/ pics here.