What's your STX set-up? (2010 edition)
#26
I Heart 2nd Gear Racing
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I will say that you have a decent starting point for local events - enough to have fun on. Just go out, have a good time, and take rides with faster drivers, either in your car or in theirs, to learn about fast driving. Then upgrade the car when you can.
You'll find that most of us are hesitant to comment on "how much slower is my setup" mainly because it's impossible to know and driving technique is so important.
Getting the tread back on topic, I could never get -2.0 camber out of the front of my car with stock springs, but with a lower ride height it's more likely. Not sure how low the PT springs go. I get -2.5 with my car, with a fairly low front ride height.
Deleting the cat-back is legal, I do believe, but it will be very loud and if your region is instituting sound regs (most SCCA clubs are) then you will likely have problems. I'd say the hassle isn't worth it - just focus on your driving instead of removing the cat-back before every event.
You'll find that most of us are hesitant to comment on "how much slower is my setup" mainly because it's impossible to know and driving technique is so important.
Getting the tread back on topic, I could never get -2.0 camber out of the front of my car with stock springs, but with a lower ride height it's more likely. Not sure how low the PT springs go. I get -2.5 with my car, with a fairly low front ride height.
Deleting the cat-back is legal, I do believe, but it will be very loud and if your region is instituting sound regs (most SCCA clubs are) then you will likely have problems. I'd say the hassle isn't worth it - just focus on your driving instead of removing the cat-back before every event.
I've been autocrossing for a long time. I'm sure I can still learn from riding with faster drivers, but I've had a few very fast drivers drive my car, and they can do no better than me. That's why I think I'm to the point where I can finally benefit from modifying it a bit. Note: Yes, I'm sure there are people who can beat me in my own car.
I would say when I get my car prepared this way, it will be an ending point, not a starting point. Frankly, I don't know how some of you guys with wives get her to sign off on the untold thousands it takes to prepare a car to be nationally competitive. I mean, I like Local Competition a lot, but one always wonders how he stacks up against those special drivers who win national titles.
I'm sure many drivers who post in these "STX" threads have thought about "how much slower [or faster] is my setup". I read these forums a lot. You probably each have an idea where you are compared to others, but have enough humility not to talk about it.
Regarding the alignment, that is good info. I think the drop is about 1" for the PT springs. I did not know that this would affect potential camber. Can you tell how lost I am when it comes to car setup? It should be quite a comedy of errors when I install springs and shocks.
Yeh, I thought about the sound level of the car with no muffler. One of the sites I frequent will be fine. The other won't. Let me be honest, though, I really want to do it just for the noise it will make. My car is deathly quiet like all stock RX8s.
Thanks again for taking the time to answer, George. The last time I asked a question, you were the only who answered, so I sense a trend. It's appreciated.
#27
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^Gotcha. I need to work on my reading comprehension skills. I saw "pretty much local" but missed "current national champion." Nice benchmark to have.
OK, so your an experienced driver, cool. 1.5 seconds may not be too far off the mark. It would be interesting to hear how you fare - please post results in the STX thread! I'm sure many people have the same question you have, and would be grateful to here how you stack up at your current prep level.
And yes, I try to answer when I can, and when I feel like it, which isn't all that often!
[edit] At '09 Nats, I was 0.5 sec slower than Bryce on day 2. KW V3 Coilovers, 255 Toyos on 9" rims, 210 hp, 2750 lbs, and the drive of my life.
OK, so your an experienced driver, cool. 1.5 seconds may not be too far off the mark. It would be interesting to hear how you fare - please post results in the STX thread! I'm sure many people have the same question you have, and would be grateful to here how you stack up at your current prep level.
And yes, I try to answer when I can, and when I feel like it, which isn't all that often!
[edit] At '09 Nats, I was 0.5 sec slower than Bryce on day 2. KW V3 Coilovers, 255 Toyos on 9" rims, 210 hp, 2750 lbs, and the drive of my life.
Last edited by GeorgeH; 07-21-2010 at 07:12 PM.
#28
Drummond Built
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Step Af in the instructions, page 10. Becuase Mazda named the plastic piece the "upper radiator shroud" or something like that, it has to stay in place and cannot be removed or cut/modified to allow the intake pipe to pass through it, because it is part of the cooling system and not the intake system.
Basically you have to route the filter/piping to the same location that the stock intake inlet is/was routed along.
For the most part local level autocrossing shouldn't be that big of a deal, but at National Tours, and Pro Solos you will want to make sure that the intake is rerouted so it's legal as someone will more than likely protest. Better to be 150% safe then sorry.
Basically you have to route the filter/piping to the same location that the stock intake inlet is/was routed along.
For the most part local level autocrossing shouldn't be that big of a deal, but at National Tours, and Pro Solos you will want to make sure that the intake is rerouted so it's legal as someone will more than likely protest. Better to be 150% safe then sorry.
#29
Registered
Driving around on the street with this setup is deafening, seriously. I was lazy at the last Atlanta National Tour and left the muffler off between days and drove back and forth to the site from my hotel like this. It was not fun to say the least.
It does however sound amazing on course.
#30
No respecter of malarkey
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Because you had it dumping underneath the car and also probably because the elbow was likely pointed in the direction of the meter. Both of these will increase the magnitude of the sound at the meter microphone. Generally a straight pipe after the OE cat run all the way out the back won't read that high, will easily pass even 95 dBA with an elbow pointing away from the sound meter position
#31
Row faster, I hear banjos
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I'd have to agree with Mark. Shawn, Katie and I ran a straight pipe after the cat, that was angled towards the ground behind the car. The highest reading any of us got at Nats in 2009 was ~95 dB.
Even in this configuration, the droning from the exhaust was much too loud and annoying to run on the street. I always swapped back to my street catback after big events.
Even in this configuration, the droning from the exhaust was much too loud and annoying to run on the street. I always swapped back to my street catback after big events.
#32
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Is Tein considered a poor choice for this route? It is kind of what I have been looking towards but a lot of you guys seem to be using the Bilstein PSS9 coilover. Any thoughts?
I use to auto-x my civic a few years back. Koni Yellow/Comptec Springs/gsr RSB.
That is my experience as of now but with my new car I am looking for a bit more result.
I use to auto-x my civic a few years back. Koni Yellow/Comptec Springs/gsr RSB.
That is my experience as of now but with my new car I am looking for a bit more result.
#33
mkuhnracing.com
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^PSS9's are a great choice for the price. Koni Yellow's with custom spring rates will be better than the Tein's you'll buy out of the box...Mr.Pockets is happy with his Stance GR+ and does pretty well at a national level. Ohlins are fun, AST's are fun...Motons are nice.
#34
Model: 2005 AT Base
Suspension:
Eibach Prokit Lowering Springs
Brakes:
OEM pads and rotors
Engine/Exhuast:
AEM CAI
Mazdaspeed Catback
Headers + Midpipe coming soon
Wheels:
18" Boss MSR 045 Racing Rims
Dunlop Direzza DZ101 Low Profile Tires
Body:
OEM front lip and rear spoiler
Tinted windows and smoked tailights.
Rotor emblems substituting mazda
Painted red calipers (coming soon)
Hid headlights
Red led parking lights
Alignment:
Height F 13.5" / R 13.5"
Caster 7.0
Camber F -2.5 / R -2.0
Toe F 0 / R 0
Other:
AEM License Plate Frame
Suspension:
Eibach Prokit Lowering Springs
Brakes:
OEM pads and rotors
Engine/Exhuast:
AEM CAI
Mazdaspeed Catback
Headers + Midpipe coming soon
Wheels:
18" Boss MSR 045 Racing Rims
Dunlop Direzza DZ101 Low Profile Tires
Body:
OEM front lip and rear spoiler
Tinted windows and smoked tailights.
Rotor emblems substituting mazda
Painted red calipers (coming soon)
Hid headlights
Red led parking lights
Alignment:
Height F 13.5" / R 13.5"
Caster 7.0
Camber F -2.5 / R -2.0
Toe F 0 / R 0
Other:
AEM License Plate Frame
#35
this thread is the best! thank everyone so much for all the info! one question...where can you find the moton coilovers for sale? i feel like ive looked all over and cant find any. thanks for you help.
#36
Row faster, I hear banjos
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You'll have to give them a call or send an e-mail to get a quote, but be prepared to spend some $$$.
#40
Not yet famous
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There is a forum member selling a used set of Motons if you are serious:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/stx-parts-moton-ms-pt-rb-rp-eibach-etc-167937/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/stx-parts-moton-ms-pt-rb-rp-eibach-etc-167937/
#41
i am very serious i just want to do alot of research so i know im getting the best suspension i can find. thanks again everyone for helping so much! i should be making a choice very soon.
#42
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Location: Kelowna,BC,Canada
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Small hi-jack.
I'm looking for new tires for next year, my RE11's are toast and I am undecided on replcements.
I've pretty well ruled out the R1R's, as this is a summer daily driver, and I am not
sure they would last more than one summer.
I am thinking RS3's or Kumho XS's to keep the cost down.
Any thoughts on these two?
I'm looking for new tires for next year, my RE11's are toast and I am undecided on replcements.
I've pretty well ruled out the R1R's, as this is a summer daily driver, and I am not
sure they would last more than one summer.
I am thinking RS3's or Kumho XS's to keep the cost down.
Any thoughts on these two?
#46
Row faster, I hear banjos
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I missed this part. Since Britich Columbia weather tends to be a bit cooler and very wet at times, I'd recommend the Dunlop Star Specs. Should easily get you through a season of autocross & daily driving and they'll be fast in both the dry and the wet.
#47
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Weather is not an issue in this part of British Columbia, we are semi-arid. Our annual precipitation (snow and rain combined) is about the same as one bad day
in Seattle.
in Seattle.
#49
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
I know how you feel, but we're both on our own to deal with it
The let several times I quoted shipping tires up there the potential buyer ends up yelling at me so I don't even bother trying any more - I don't set the shipping costs, just pass them on
The let several times I quoted shipping tires up there the potential buyer ends up yelling at me so I don't even bother trying any more - I don't set the shipping costs, just pass them on
Last edited by TeamRX8; 11-11-2010 at 05:31 PM.
#50
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When I buy anything south of the border I have it shipped to place just across the border, then go down and bring it thru the border myself...it's only about 80 mi
from here.....Tirerack charges about $50 to ship a set of tires there, but about
$300 to ship here!
from here.....Tirerack charges about $50 to ship a set of tires there, but about
$300 to ship here!
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