What's your STX set-up? (2010 edition)
1 Attachment(s)
Saw this on miata.net and thought it would be a good idea for those who don't care to play their cards close to their chest.
Let's try to keep the same format, for easy reference. I'll start off... Model: 2006 6MT RX-8 base (sport package) Suspension:
Attachment 264337 |
My "phase 1" of the stock to stx conversion.
Model: 2004 6MT RX-8 base Suspension: * Koni Sport d/a valved - Progress Tech springs * Hotchkis 27mm MX-5 FSB * Stock or no rear bar Brakes: * OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: * Cobb AP Wheels: * 17x9 +45 Enkei RPF1's * 255/40/17 Hankook RS-3's (full tread) Body: Alignment: * Will know more after getting it back on the alignment rack. Other: Lightweight battery Corbeau Forza driver's seat. |
Model: 2004 6MT RX-8 Sport (Damn stability control button!)
Suspension:
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Model:
*2009 Sport 6mt Suspension: *Bilstein PSS9 coilovers *Hotchkis 27mm MX-5 FSB (3 way adjustable) *Eibach 16mm MX-5 RSB (2 way adjustable)/Sock redrilled bar Brakes: *OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: *S0lO8-Speed custom Getto Exhaust Wheels: *17x9 +45 Enkei RPF1's *255/40/17 Hankook RS-3's (full tread) Alignment: *Camber F -2.7 / R -2.2 *Front toe out, rear toe in-verry little don't remember how much Other: *Walmart Motorcycle Battery-8lbs. *NRG Carbon Fiber Seats-Custom Brackets W/weight added |
I was originally going to stay in stock class, but my stock intake is coming apart so I decided to get the AEM CAI. I may as well go all in now, eh? When all is sorted out, here is what I'll have:
Model:
Suspension (stock, but these are planned):
Brakes:
Engine/exhaust:
Wheels:
Body:
Alignment:
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I already had some mods on my car when I bought that put me outta stock class, but now that its not my only vehicle, I was able to prep it all winter.
Model:
Suspension:
Brakes:
Engine/exhaust:
Wheels:
Body:
Alignment:
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1 Attachment(s)
Edited for 2012 season.
Model: 2004 6MT RX-8 Sport Package / Cloth / Non-sunroof Suspension:
Attachment 173144 |
Okay, I’ll play.
Model: 2004 RX-8 Sport Package Suspension:
Brakes:
Engine/Exhaust
Wheels
Body
Alignment
Other
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/imag...r/img_8057.jpg |
Update: See my original post for the recent updates to my front spring rate and alignment. I'll stick with this set-up for the remainder of the 2010 season.
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chike- no header?
also, how'd you get -2.5* camber with 6.5* caster? |
Originally Posted by dmitrik4
(Post 3540473)
chike- no header?
also, how'd you get -2.5* camber with 6.5* caster? My car is lowered by ~1" compared to when I was on konis in B-stock. 6.5* caster w/ -2.5* camber is very doable. FWIW, I got -2.0* camber and 4.5* caster when my car was in stock class. I wasn't sure I could pass sound with the RB header. With the Davesport cat and vibrant resonator I'm already somewhere around 90dB @ 50ft. The header would have made the car MUCH louder. I'm pretty happy with the car as it currently sits. It's the perfect weekend car/occasional daily driver. -Chike |
Model: 2005 Shinka
Suspension:
Brakes:
Engine/Trans/Exhaust:
Wheels:
Body:
Alignment:
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Originally Posted by tiresmoker
(Post 3541083)
AEM CAI (rerouted to be STX legal)
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Originally Posted by maskedferret
(Post 3541176)
What about it in its regular form makes it not legal for STX?
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Originally Posted by chiketkd
(Post 3541187)
The plastic "splash shield" has to be removed to run the AEM/Mazdaspeed intake. This shield must remain in place in STX.
Install instructions: http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-485_inst.pdf Additionally, how is this "modification" implemented? On a tangent, I recall having to bend a metal extrusion to the left of the filter element to allow it to clear; what is that thing? |
Originally Posted by maskedferret
(Post 3541199)
Err, I don't recall a "splash shield" that I removed... :( Got a picture?
Install instructions: http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-485_inst.pdf Additionally, how is this "modification" implemented? On a tangent, I recall having to bend a metal extrusion to the left of the filter element to allow it to clear; what is that thing? Step Af in the instructions, page 10. Becuase Mazda named the plastic piece the "upper radiator shroud" or something like that, it has to stay in place and cannot be removed or cut/modified to allow the intake pipe to pass through it, because it is part of the cooling system and not the intake system. Basically you have to route the filter/piping to the same location that the stock intake inlet is/was routed along. For the most part local level autocrossing shouldn't be that big of a deal, but at National Tours, and Pro Solos you will want to make sure that the intake is rerouted so it's legal as someone will more than likely protest. Better to be 150% safe then sorry. |
Originally Posted by tiresmoker
(Post 3541243)
Step Af in the instructions, page 10. Becuase Mazda named the plastic piece the "upper radiator shroud" or something like that, it has to stay in place and cannot be removed or cut/modified to allow the intake pipe to pass through it, because it is part of the cooling system and not the intake system.
Basically you have to route the filter/piping to the same location that the stock intake inlet is/was routed along. For the most part local level autocrossing shouldn't be that big of a deal, but at National Tours, and Pro Solos you will want to make sure that the intake is rerouted so it's legal as someone will more than likely protest. Better to be 150% safe then sorry. Btw maskedferret, this post should give you more info (includes a diagram): https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=116 |
Now that I finally have some parts to brag about I'll post in this thread.
Model: 2007 6MT RX-8 Sport Suspension: * Bilstein PSS9 coilovers * Hotchkis 27mm MX-5 FSB (3 way adjustable) * Hotchkis 21mm MX-5 RSB (3 way adjustable) - may swap for a smaller bar if it's too tail happy. Brakes: * OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: * Stock Intake (planning on 6" filter with podram and thermal isolation box) * Stock Exhaust (planning on adding a 2.5" highflow cat with extra resonator in stock midpipe and reusing the b-stock exhaust rear section) Wheels: * 17x9 +42 WedsSport TC-005 * 245/40R17 Bridgestone RE-01R (3 years old, fronts are corded) Body: * OEM, front undertray has extra screws/hardware in it to hold it together after a stray semi truck tread had its way with it. Alignment: * Height F 13.5" / R 13.5" * Caster: L 8.07 / R 8.12 * Camber: F -2.25 / R -1.6 * Toe F 0 / R 0 Other: * OEM Cargo Net (the only option my car came with) * Need Access Port + tune. * Hail damage to roof, hood, fenders and trunk (adds aerodynamic drag to the top of the car to help with high speed stability... yeah... that's the ticket.) |
Originally Posted by MilesJ
(Post 3542651)
Alignment:
* Height F 13.5" / R 13.5" * Caster: L 8.07 / R 8.12 * Camber: F -2.25 / R -1.6 * Toe F 0 / R 0 |
If my car is setup as per the details below, how far off of STX pace would I be on say .... a typical 40 second course. I know this isn't scientific and a real answer is impossible, but just give it your best guess.
The winner of last year's National STX class is pretty much local. I'd like to know how far I would be off of him ... if my car were driven by somebody as good as him :) Of course, I won't be able to attain that time, but it's nice to have goals :) Model: 2007 6MT RX-8 base (sport package) Suspension: * Koni yellow springs * OEM Anti Roll bar * Progress Technology Springs Brakes: * OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: * Removal of stock muffler (is this legal?) Wheels: * 17x8 +35 5zigen FN01R-C * 245/40/17 Dunlop Star Spec Body: * OEM front lip and rear spoiler Alignment: * Caster 6.5 * Camber F -2.0 / R -1.8 * Toe F 1/8" out / R 0 Is this alignment possible on a stock RX8? I had the alignment done about 2.5 years ago, and they could only get (IIRC) about -1.8 front and -1.6 rear. |
^^^^^ Anyone?
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It's impossible to say, since you don't tell us how your competitors car is configured.
But, assuming he has a decent set of coilovers, 9" rims with one of the top tires, some weight reduction measures, some power adders, and is decently setup, his car will be faster. I won't hazard a guess as to how much. Having said that, if you are a substantially better driver, you should be able to catch him. If he is even a marginally better driver than you, again assuming a decent STX setup, you are toast. |
If his time was a 41.4 then your time would be a 43.9
:dunno: |
I will say that you have a decent starting point for local events - enough to have fun on. Just go out, have a good time, and take rides with faster drivers, either in your car or in theirs, to learn about fast driving. Then upgrade the car when you can.
You'll find that most of us are hesitant to comment on "how much slower is my setup" mainly because it's impossible to know and driving technique is so important. Getting the tread back on topic, I could never get -2.0 camber out of the front of my car with stock springs, but with a lower ride height it's more likely. Not sure how low the PT springs go. I get -2.5 with my car, with a fairly low front ride height. Deleting the cat-back is legal, I do believe, but it will be very loud and if your region is instituting sound regs (most SCCA clubs are) then you will likely have problems. I'd say the hassle isn't worth it - just focus on your driving instead of removing the cat-back before every event. |
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3642934)
It's impossible to say, since you don't tell us how your competitors car is configured.
But, assuming he has a decent set of coilovers, 9" rims with one of the top tires, some weight reduction measures, some power adders, and is decently setup, his car will be faster. I won't hazard a guess as to how much. Having said that, if you are a substantially better driver, you should be able to catch him. If he is even a marginally better driver than you, again assuming a decent STX setup, you are toast. I was just looking for some type of yardstick to shoot for. Even finishing 1.5 seconds off from him would be awesome. So maybe that's what I will shoot for if I ever make it to an event where he is present. |
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