TrackAddict

I would beg to differ. If you are on a long straight and you are going to end up shifting up, it makes sense to shift at 8.5K. If however you are nearing the braking zone, that shift up, then back down is unnecessary wear on the tranny/clutch and it costs you time. At Roebling I kept it in 4th the whole front straight. I could shift into 5th but I would lose a few mph when I arrived at the braking zone. In 4th I was around 9K at the end of the front straight. A better driver may need 5th but I am not there. OD has 17 inch wheels so he definitely needed 5th.

Rotor - I read your comments with great interest about the temps that dino oil breaks down. Sounds like you have real lab experience in this matter. It sounds like with the stock system we are just fine and not needing to worry about the oil breaking down.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Give us some info..it sounds like you should know what's up with this. I get most of what I've learned from BITOG and from talking to a couple of petroleum engineering buddies from university...they are just a bit out of date at this point as they both are in office jobs now

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

As TA says-- if he didnt stay in 4th it would cause a shift that would get things to busy and end up not to be to his advantage. That is one of the reasons I went with a smaller tire. To dial the car in a little better for me and my driving style. Easing the work on the engine a little. Everyone knows that proper gearing for a track is very important. For our daily driven 8's it is a little harder to do--I just got lucky with my decision on the 17's. Some people have dropped to 35 size sidewall in the 18 inch tire to get a shorter gear. The more on the track the more we learn.
remember you can overdrive an engine just as you can overdrive a car. If I remember correctly Speed Source shifts before 8K or maybe a little afterward. Course they are dialed in!!!
Also on the MOP--I do run a premix. I believe on track days and higher than usual engine speeds our stock MOP is inadequete in relation to long engine life. You may not need it for everyday driving(i do it anyway--makes people at the gas stations ask questions-- hehehe). Isn't it strange that on some track events I use more oil than others and it seems the demand on the engine is not that much differant between the events. TA has noticed the same thing.
At this point I am not concerned about temps on the track. If I didnt have gauges so that I could monitor them I would be more concerned. This engine has the potential to overheat(like all do) and it will not give you much warning--- and a rotory will not tolerant any overheating. I encourage anyone doing regular track days 3-4x's a year or more---get gauges.

Jay----- I bet you get really GOOD oil pressure readings with that 20W50! I am thinking about going to a 10W40 RP the next event --just to experiment a little. By the way we THINK some of us are turning sub 1:30 at Roebling--which ain't bad.
Swoope ---thanks a lot for the oil changing hint --makes sense and I will be sure to use it.
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Razz--yep upgrading the MOP is a good idea for us track addicts. Until I can get around to that(like end of warrenty) i will use pre mix instead.
heres a hint if you want to use A/C on the track to activate your fans. Just take the a/c belt off(takes maybe 2 minutes to do that) and when you want fans just turn the a/c switch on. Just remember to turn it off once up to speed.
olddragger

Red Devil

^^^
What are you using for premix, and how many oz per tank? I recall it was posted before but couldn't find it.

Razz1

What I like about adding oil is the choice to use Snowmobile/Motorcycle 2 stroke oil.

Whether it be regular oil or sync., it's made to burn so you can be safe it won't clog the fuel system and when it hits the chamber it will burn.

I like the above approach.

I use to use Marvel Mystery oil in my Harley.

BlueRenesis82

any particular 2 stroke oil to be using other than that Mystery Oil?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Be sure you DO NOT USE any 2 stoke castor based oil. It will ruin your cat. What i use is a blend. I mix Lucus Top cylinder lube and injector cleaner 50/50 with Yamaha blue(their best 2 stroke pre mix synthetic oil). I add at NO MORE than 1/2 oz per gallon. Anymore you start reducing octane etc. This mixture will not hurt your cat, looks purty and it works well for me although I cant really prove that. It is just very lodgical too me.
There are a lot of differant pre mix's out there that will work fine. Just pick one.
Olddragger

BlueRenesis82

hmm, maybe ill grab some of that my next time to the auto store to buy filters

Razz1

Can you guys with the gauges post your ride height?

I would think ride heigh will play a big factor on the track.

for example 2" lower than stock vs 1/2 "

Track temps are real hot. If your closer your gonna get hotter. Right?

BlueRenesis82

umm, not really. It's more a factor of the air that you are picking up over your oil coolers and radiator. If the radiator was on the bottom of the car, then you might see a pretty big diff due to it facing a small area that supplies air. I think we can all agree that the front of our car has some pretty decent size openings for air intakes for cooling.

takahashi

No idea of the last comment but my car is 20mm lower in the front and roughly 15mm lower at the rear (Tein's spec).

With the Mazda appearance package the front lip is 11mm off the ground

rkostolni

I installed a Koyo radiator last Saturday. I’ve been watching my water temps over the past two days with an ambient around 80-85 deg F and high humidity. Little disappointed, haven’t really seen much of a difference. I am still seeing slightly over 200deg under acceleration and around 175 when cruising at 60mph. Idleing at a stoplight I see about 195.

takahashi

Mate....

Idling of course it will increase! There is no wind to cool it

The thermostat does not open until 82 degree C. So 93 C (200F) is not that bad.

How thick is Koyo? Any details? The radiator is judged by their thickness, layer and the material used (like aluminum, brass, or copper).

hogcar

I hope you mean 11cm off the ground??

rkostolni

I agree its not "bad", but its pretty much exactly what I saw with the stock radiator. I was hoping for some kind of decrease. Although it has been a little hotter here than before, so my test wasn't exactly in controlled conditions. I think it is going to cool back off later this week so I can compare more meaningfull data.

Mainly I was hoping to keep my temps under acceleration a little lower. Around 185 or so.

I didn't measure the thickness of the radiator. Next time I'm under there I'll get it.

takahashi

Haha... it is work related illness.

I use mm to measure stuff all the time. LOL

swoope

iTrader: (5)

did you measure the diff in the amount of coolant before and after???

the thermostat controls everything going on here.... it will act the same no matter what rad you have on it.....

what you got should give you that extra to keep it cool in the ugly times.... and i think it will...

the temps for the thermostat you are running are inline...

to make it run cooler you will have to change the thermostat.


beers

Razz1

2 1/16"

http://www.mazdatrix.com/8cooling.htm

takahashi

Single layer aluminum 50mm+ ... it suppose to be very good.

Having said that double layer 50mm is much better

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Street temps for me in Georgia at 95ambient are so far no problems. coolant arount 190-195 with/without a/c on, oil temps 190-200. This is normal driving stop and go/interstate/neighborhoods type stuff for 30mins/1 hr. Aggressive driving does put the "flame" on and temps will go up. If you drive aggressively(like from red light to red light stop and go) and DONT have a cool down streach/run then the temps I believe will get too hot. Something factory gauges would not show.
I wonder if my underdrive pulley is actually helping the pump do a better job?
Olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Ok I am going to do a little experiment also. I dont have the RB radiator/a/c condensor screen and I have home made oil cooler screens. I am going to remove the oil screens to see if that makes any differance. I will do that this w/e. They may be blocking some flow.
Olddragger