track/street gauge readings
most decent engine oils will take 300 degrees before the additive packages start to burn out. When that happens the smell is pretty obvious as well. Up until that point you should be fine providing you have an adequate viscocity and the engine parts don't expand to the point they start to interfere with each other.
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by BlueRenesis82
so with your results you would say that we have adaqute cooling as it sits from the factory?
But I am surprised that OD raced in a 36 degree heat and still have coolant temp under 100 ... how did you do it man
?
I'm OK with anything around 240...above that and the additive pacs in the oil start to take a beating. Synthetics with good aditive pacs like RP or Redline should be good to over 280..but the oil temp at the sensor is going to be lower than at the "hot" spots like the rotor sprays and bearings
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,944
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From: Melbourne, Australia
I heard people use Motul in Japan... I am scared of changing my oil...to synthetic (basically mixing oil since I know it is a pain to get everything out - not using synthetic per se). In fact, I think I just cannot be brothered. And there are public pressure on the Ozzie forum - since Mazda put out an oil just for RX-8. Everyone uses it.
What oil do you use?
What oil do you use?
Originally Posted by dannobre
Depends how many you buy 
Last time I bought 5gal for $109
I think it's gone up a bit
Last time I bought 5gal for $109 I think it's gone up a bit
me to right now i am afraid to look and i need more soon...
it is synthetic.... so it is not linked to oil prices, right
beers
ok,
here is a tip... jack up car on exhaust side.... that is the same everywhere....
remove the drain plug.... let it drain for a long while....
with exhaust side up on jackstands jackup the other side. let it drain for a long while...
let down exhaust side..... let it drain for a long while....
jack up exhaust side. put drain plug back in....
change filter refill...
i will bet you get over 6 qts in... i did.
i did think about it it just happened, i forgot to loossen the lugs to rotate after i had the car on jackstands....
beers
here is a tip... jack up car on exhaust side.... that is the same everywhere....
remove the drain plug.... let it drain for a long while....
with exhaust side up on jackstands jackup the other side. let it drain for a long while...
let down exhaust side..... let it drain for a long while....
jack up exhaust side. put drain plug back in....
change filter refill...
i will bet you get over 6 qts in... i did.
i did think about it it just happened, i forgot to loossen the lugs to rotate after i had the car on jackstands....
beers
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,944
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by Nemesis8
What oil? I'm behind reading once again...
swoope ... how about the oil in the oil cooler pipe???
Originally Posted by takahashi
It is the one in Australia. A mineral oil made by Castrol rebadged to Mazda name and Mazda Australia endorsed it. It is basically a 5W-30 mineral oil SAE based.
swoope ... how about the oil in the oil cooler pipe???
swoope ... how about the oil in the oil cooler pipe???
think about what was done and the location of the coolers...
i went from adding ~ 4 qts to over 6... did not get all of the oil out, but most...
beers
?
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From: macon, georgia
by over rev-ing --what I mean no high substained rpm in relation to speed. For example--dont keep engine at 7-8K a lot of the time --without speed to compensate. So if you have been dropping a gear to get through that LONG corner--see if you can stay were you are and smooth a line through. Smooth is equal to fast. If you are using 3nd gear at 7-8k through a section then there should be no reason why you cant drop to 4th and get through the same section with less fuss and a heck of a lot less flame front exposure in the engine.(cooler). I repeat what I said earier--when I dropped gears some to see if the temp would go up--it did and fast. I dropped to 3nd in 2 corners revs at 7-8.5K --dont think there was any reduction in lap time but temp shot up 6-8 degrees just by that one time. went to 236F. cooled right down when I stopped doing that
If you have to drop to 3nd and keep the engine at 7k-8k a lot then you may want to think about investing in some shorter tires to lower you final drive ratio. Beleive it or not--a lot of the time a 3nd gear power out of a turn adds on time. Your exit speed may be higher but it took longer to get through the turn--believe it or not.
Takahashi-- I believe 2 things influenced my coolant temps:
1- I am running a 65/35 blend coolant
2- I have an agency underdrive pulley (20% underdrive) that may be helping the water pump at high rpms.
Other than that I couldnt tell you any reason for these temps. I was surprised also.
I use Royal Purple 5W30 in the summer months in Ga. (oil pressures do go up with the higher weight oil--duhh
) In the winter months I use 5W20. I believe a good synthetic will run cooler than a dino oil---plus I believe in synthetics.
By switching to 17 inch wheels and a shorter tire I also got almost 10 miles to the gallon on the track at Roebling. When I was on the 18's and having to shift more I was only getting 8-9. Running a little lower rpm makes a lot of differance.
My car did get to 236 when i reverted back to dropping to 3nd on 2 corners and grunting out of the corners at 7-9K with no decrease in lap time that I could tell. 3nd gear can add time in a corner even though the exit speed is higher--believe it or not. The oil cooled rapidly once I stopped doing that.
My advice is to not peak the engine so much. I know, I know--it sounds great and it feels great--but it could be slower lap times and it is sure harder on the engine.
Oh and you can ask the group how fast my laps where. ( One told me I was gaining on a super stalker! Errrr OK!?!?!?!!!!
My shift points on the straight is 7.8K from 4th to 5th.(Roebling and Road Atlanta), I do not drop to 3nd unless my rpms drop to below 4.5K. I can run the entire Roebling in 4th with one shift to 5th on the front straight and at RA i have to shift more often --drop to 3nd on turn 5(coming out of the esses(working on that)) and turn 7. I short shift to 5th on both straights at about 7.8K I do that for several reasons.
Dannobre--you are exactly right about the hot spots. They are there. Also in the coolant. I do not use water wetter. So dont just pay attention to temp readings! Although very valuable info it is not all you need.
olddragger
If you have to drop to 3nd and keep the engine at 7k-8k a lot then you may want to think about investing in some shorter tires to lower you final drive ratio. Beleive it or not--a lot of the time a 3nd gear power out of a turn adds on time. Your exit speed may be higher but it took longer to get through the turn--believe it or not.
Takahashi-- I believe 2 things influenced my coolant temps:
1- I am running a 65/35 blend coolant
2- I have an agency underdrive pulley (20% underdrive) that may be helping the water pump at high rpms.
Other than that I couldnt tell you any reason for these temps. I was surprised also.
I use Royal Purple 5W30 in the summer months in Ga. (oil pressures do go up with the higher weight oil--duhh
) In the winter months I use 5W20. I believe a good synthetic will run cooler than a dino oil---plus I believe in synthetics.By switching to 17 inch wheels and a shorter tire I also got almost 10 miles to the gallon on the track at Roebling. When I was on the 18's and having to shift more I was only getting 8-9. Running a little lower rpm makes a lot of differance.
My car did get to 236 when i reverted back to dropping to 3nd on 2 corners and grunting out of the corners at 7-9K with no decrease in lap time that I could tell. 3nd gear can add time in a corner even though the exit speed is higher--believe it or not. The oil cooled rapidly once I stopped doing that.
My advice is to not peak the engine so much. I know, I know--it sounds great and it feels great--but it could be slower lap times and it is sure harder on the engine.
Oh and you can ask the group how fast my laps where. ( One told me I was gaining on a super stalker
! Errrr OK!?!?!?!!!!My shift points on the straight is 7.8K from 4th to 5th.(Roebling and Road Atlanta), I do not drop to 3nd unless my rpms drop to below 4.5K. I can run the entire Roebling in 4th with one shift to 5th on the front straight and at RA i have to shift more often --drop to 3nd on turn 5(coming out of the esses(working on that)) and turn 7. I short shift to 5th on both straights at about 7.8K I do that for several reasons.
Dannobre--you are exactly right about the hot spots. They are there. Also in the coolant. I do not use water wetter. So dont just pay attention to temp readings! Although very valuable info it is not all you need.
olddragger
Originally Posted by olddragger
eR SORRY FOR THE REPEAT STATEMENT-- GOT UP FROM THE BOARD AND THEN WHEN i RETURNED--WELL HECK--YOU KNOW
odWE
odWE
your posts are great.... the pulley thing has me proplexed... it goes against everything i have read and understand, but the fact that it has worked for you means more than a dyno...
beers
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,295
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by olddragger
by over rev-ing --what I mean no high substained rpm in relation to speed. For example--dont keep engine at 7-8K a lot of the time --without speed to compensate. So if you have been dropping a gear to get through that LONG corner--see if you can stay were you are and smooth a line through. Smooth is equal to fast. If you are using 3nd gear at 7-8k through a section then there should be no reason why you cant drop to 4th and get through the same section with less fuss and a heck of a lot less flame front exposure in the engine.(cooler). I repeat what I said earier--when I dropped gears some to see if the temp would go up--it did and fast. I dropped to 3nd in 2 corners revs at 7-8.5K --dont think there was any reduction in lap time but temp shot up 6-8 degrees just by that one time. went to 236F. cooled right down when I stopped doing that
If you have to drop to 3nd and keep the engine at 7k-8k a lot then you may want to think about investing in some shorter tires to lower you final drive ratio. Beleive it or not--a lot of the time a 3nd gear power out of a turn adds on time. Your exit speed may be higher but it took longer to get through the turn--believe it or not.
Takahashi-- I believe 2 things influenced my coolant temps:
1- I am running a 65/35 blend coolant
2- I have an agency underdrive pulley (20% underdrive) that may be helping the water pump at high rpms.
Other than that I couldnt tell you any reason for these temps. I was surprised also.
I use Royal Purple 5W30 in the summer months in Ga. (oil pressures do go up with the higher weight oil--duhh) In the winter months I use 5W20. I believe a good synthetic will run cooler than a dino oil---plus I believe in synthetics.
By switching to 17 inch wheels and a shorter tire I also got almost 10 miles to the gallon on the track at Roebling. When I was on the 18's and having to shift more I was only getting 8-9. Running a little lower rpm makes a lot of differance.
My car did get to 236 when i reverted back to dropping to 3nd on 2 corners and grunting out of the corners at 7-9K with no decrease in lap time that I could tell. 3nd gear can add time in a corner even though the exit speed is higher--believe it or not. The oil cooled rapidly once I stopped doing that.
My advice is to not peak the engine so much. I know, I know--it sounds great and it feels great--but it could be slower lap times and it is sure harder on the engine.
Oh and you can ask the group how fast my laps where. ( One told me I was gaining on a super stalker! Errrr OK!?!?!?!!!!
My shift points on the straight is 7.8K from 4th to 5th.(Roebling and Road Atlanta), I do not drop to 3nd unless my rpms drop to below 4.5K. I can run the entire Roebling in 4th with one shift to 5th on the front straight and at RA i have to shift more often --drop to 3nd on turn 5(coming out of the esses(working on that)) and turn 7. I short shift to 5th on both straights at about 7.8K I do that for several reasons.
Dannobre--you are exactly right about the hot spots. They are there. Also in the coolant. I do not use water wetter. So dont just pay attention to temp readings! Although very valuable info it is not all you need.
olddragger
If you have to drop to 3nd and keep the engine at 7k-8k a lot then you may want to think about investing in some shorter tires to lower you final drive ratio. Beleive it or not--a lot of the time a 3nd gear power out of a turn adds on time. Your exit speed may be higher but it took longer to get through the turn--believe it or not.
Takahashi-- I believe 2 things influenced my coolant temps:
1- I am running a 65/35 blend coolant
2- I have an agency underdrive pulley (20% underdrive) that may be helping the water pump at high rpms.
Other than that I couldnt tell you any reason for these temps. I was surprised also.
I use Royal Purple 5W30 in the summer months in Ga. (oil pressures do go up with the higher weight oil--duhh
) In the winter months I use 5W20. I believe a good synthetic will run cooler than a dino oil---plus I believe in synthetics.By switching to 17 inch wheels and a shorter tire I also got almost 10 miles to the gallon on the track at Roebling. When I was on the 18's and having to shift more I was only getting 8-9. Running a little lower rpm makes a lot of differance.
My car did get to 236 when i reverted back to dropping to 3nd on 2 corners and grunting out of the corners at 7-9K with no decrease in lap time that I could tell. 3nd gear can add time in a corner even though the exit speed is higher--believe it or not. The oil cooled rapidly once I stopped doing that.
My advice is to not peak the engine so much. I know, I know--it sounds great and it feels great--but it could be slower lap times and it is sure harder on the engine.
Oh and you can ask the group how fast my laps where. ( One told me I was gaining on a super stalker
! Errrr OK!?!?!?!!!!My shift points on the straight is 7.8K from 4th to 5th.(Roebling and Road Atlanta), I do not drop to 3nd unless my rpms drop to below 4.5K. I can run the entire Roebling in 4th with one shift to 5th on the front straight and at RA i have to shift more often --drop to 3nd on turn 5(coming out of the esses(working on that)) and turn 7. I short shift to 5th on both straights at about 7.8K I do that for several reasons.
Dannobre--you are exactly right about the hot spots. They are there. Also in the coolant. I do not use water wetter. So dont just pay attention to temp readings! Although very valuable info it is not all you need.
olddragger
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From: macon, georgia
its nice to have that extra rpm available---so if you are in a tight situation and it is advantageous NOT to shift--then you can keep on rolling where others have no choice.
But i get best performance by shifting at a max of 8.5K. Most of the time it is going to be around 8.
On the track you have to think ahead a good bit--so if you notice your temps are up and climbing then on the straight short shift her--give her some cooling time. If you really had to push her to get around someone on a short straight or the outline, then back off when you can to let her cool some. Things like that. Change your gear ratios by anyway you can to get the car more dialed in. Everyone will be happier.
Olddragger
But i get best performance by shifting at a max of 8.5K. Most of the time it is going to be around 8.
On the track you have to think ahead a good bit--so if you notice your temps are up and climbing then on the straight short shift her--give her some cooling time. If you really had to push her to get around someone on a short straight or the outline, then back off when you can to let her cool some. Things like that. Change your gear ratios by anyway you can to get the car more dialed in. Everyone will be happier.
Olddragger
Mu ha.. ha...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,361
Likes: 3
From: Cali
Originally Posted by olddragger
Good point rkostolni--i have read that corvette owners report the same thing--earier the fans come on the better in regard to temps.
more support for modified fan ativation on our cars.
olddragger
more support for modified fan ativation on our cars.
olddragger
So this means we run with the A/C on when on the track.
Ja, right...................
Mu ha.. ha...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,361
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From: Cali
If you want to be safe http://www.mazdatrix.com/8cooling.htm
Koyo radiator is larger.
Also, why do you think RB rebuilds oil metering pump for more output?
I think there is a secrect out there that Mazda is not revealing.
For oil pressure and lubrication. http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm
In a stock RX-8, the pump already runs at maximum flow at the high load/high RPM portion of the map. Do you think this is good? Forget about forced induction the safe way to go is to upgrade your pump.
Come on Ol Dragger, your on the track all the time. I think this is a safe bet for your puppy on the track.
Koyo radiator is larger.
Also, why do you think RB rebuilds oil metering pump for more output?
I think there is a secrect out there that Mazda is not revealing.
For oil pressure and lubrication. http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm
In a stock RX-8, the pump already runs at maximum flow at the high load/high RPM portion of the map. Do you think this is good? Forget about forced induction the safe way to go is to upgrade your pump.
Come on Ol Dragger, your on the track all the time. I think this is a safe bet for your puppy on the track.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 136
Likes: 1
From: Wellington, FL
The advise I got from Sylvan at Speedsource was to use 20-50 Valvoline Racing and don't worry about seeing 250 temps. I see 250 on a regular basis on the track, but my readings are coming from the oil pan drain plug.
Jay Goldfarb
Jay Goldfarb
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Melbourne, Australia
Originally Posted by Razz1
So this means we run with the A/C on when on the track.
Ja, right...................
Ja, right...................
There is a radiator fan controller that triggers the ECU to turn on the fan... Did I post it earlier
Jay,
If you have 250 at old pan - would it be even more else where in the car?
Originally Posted by dannobre
I'm OK with anything around 240...above that and the additive pacs in the oil start to take a beating. Synthetics with good aditive pacs like RP or Redline should be good to over 280..