track/street gauge readings
04-24-2006, 01:23 AM
#76
New Member
Oil pressure... is correct.
I have R Magic better filter and should flow better and should have less loss in pressure from the oil pump, and 5W-30 Mazda Rotary oil from Australia.
I have 15 idling or 50-52 max on track.
Pressure is related to pump and oil temperature.
I have R Magic better filter and should flow better and should have less loss in pressure from the oil pump, and 5W-30 Mazda Rotary oil from Australia.
I have 15 idling or 50-52 max on track.
Pressure is related to pump and oil temperature.
04-24-2006, 04:16 PM
#78
little more driving today, city driving. speed limit 45mph. ambient temps 87F. water temp got up to 190 for a little while but then backed down. ran steady state at 170-180F. I ran with the a/c on and it did cool it a little, not much(guess the engine wasn't hot to start with) after driving for some miles it was interesting that the water and oil temps where almost the same 170-180F. It will jump quickly from 170 to 190F if it is idling in traffic OR if you run it a little hard. I was just giving half or so throrrle in 2/3nd gears some. I will run her a little hard this evening and see what happens.
My oil pressure will get to 70 above 5K with oil temp at 170F. i am sure it will drop more when it gets hotter. Therein the need for a heavier wgt oil on the track and in VERY hot climates. The 5W/20 stuff at idle if the temps are over 200 is probably not holding any pressure at all. Oil starvation?
I was also a little surprised to see how long it takes the car to get it's oil temps up. The stock water temp gauge will register fully warmed up and my oil temp gauge will not even be 140F. So , one would think the engine is "ready to go" but the oil is still too cool for hard driving. HMMMM.
Giving this engine more throttle is like watching the water temp gauge behave like a tach---sort off. My old V8's never did this.
In trying to keep the temps down I think the rotary puts out a LOT of heat under hard throttle and our present cooling system doesnt have a chance to cool it (need better radiator and/or more air flow) before the rotary puts out even more heat and the stock system is trys to "catch up" . So if you are going to run hard --turn your heater on full blast for extra cooling!
olddragger
My oil pressure will get to 70 above 5K with oil temp at 170F. i am sure it will drop more when it gets hotter. Therein the need for a heavier wgt oil on the track and in VERY hot climates. The 5W/20 stuff at idle if the temps are over 200 is probably not holding any pressure at all. Oil starvation?
I was also a little surprised to see how long it takes the car to get it's oil temps up. The stock water temp gauge will register fully warmed up and my oil temp gauge will not even be 140F. So , one would think the engine is "ready to go" but the oil is still too cool for hard driving. HMMMM.
Giving this engine more throttle is like watching the water temp gauge behave like a tach---sort off. My old V8's never did this.
In trying to keep the temps down I think the rotary puts out a LOT of heat under hard throttle and our present cooling system doesnt have a chance to cool it (need better radiator and/or more air flow) before the rotary puts out even more heat and the stock system is trys to "catch up" . So if you are going to run hard --turn your heater on full blast for extra cooling!
olddragger
04-24-2006, 07:26 PM
#79
New Member
212F or thereabouts is when the ECU triggers the fan, correct. Never tested it since I use the fan controller and freak out usually (
why) when it reaches 100 degree C.
A/C on has a similar effect - it can turn the fan on.
I totally agree with the warm up bit olddragger... it is not even up to the operating water temp yet. When the stock coolant temp is get the working level. The coolant is normally 50-60 degree C.
I think better radiator since I don't think air flow is the problem. You can take the front bumper off and retest it - I don't think it is the solution.
why) when it reaches 100 degree C.A/C on has a similar effect - it can turn the fan on.
I totally agree with the warm up bit olddragger... it is not even up to the operating water temp yet. When the stock coolant temp is get the working level. The coolant is normally 50-60 degree C.
I think better radiator since I don't think air flow is the problem. You can take the front bumper off and retest it - I don't think it is the solution.
04-25-2006, 10:23 AM
#80
Takahashi,
You are probably right about needing a better radiator vs increasing airflow. Easier of the two to add also. I also like your fan control capability.
My car jumped temps from 170 to 200F on a 65F day going up 4 stories in a parking deck in 2nd gear at 3-4K. It shouldnt do that.
I havent had a safe place to really run my car hard since I installed my gauges but it seems that we have some cooling work to do. I want to do my track days in Roebling the end of next month before i modify my cooling system any. The day temps should be in the low 90's by then.
I will also run one day with a 5/30wgt royal purple oil and the next day with a 10/40W royal purple oil and sees what a differance that will make---if any in the oil pressures/temps/warm up time.
Collecting date takes time.
olddragger
You are probably right about needing a better radiator vs increasing airflow. Easier of the two to add also. I also like your fan control capability.
My car jumped temps from 170 to 200F on a 65F day going up 4 stories in a parking deck in 2nd gear at 3-4K. It shouldnt do that.
I havent had a safe place to really run my car hard since I installed my gauges but it seems that we have some cooling work to do. I want to do my track days in Roebling the end of next month before i modify my cooling system any. The day temps should be in the low 90's by then.
I will also run one day with a 5/30wgt royal purple oil and the next day with a 10/40W royal purple oil and sees what a differance that will make---if any in the oil pressures/temps/warm up time.
Collecting date takes time.
olddragger
04-26-2006, 10:02 AM
#82
Hey Blue--how are things for "ya'll" up there?
It did take a "while" for me to install these as i was having to fabricate as I went--unexplored area so to speak. Now that I have done this I could do the 2nd one in 4-5 hrs.
1st time I have had the dash apart etc-- I had to design and build from scratch a support bar for the recessed cup gauges, had to make sure there was access for my mechanical temp probes to get through the dash, out the firewall and to their appropiate homes. Had to measure--try ,then remeasure and refabricate my support bar to get the gauges at the right dept so I could have access and room to mount them and then remove them for any problems i may have without taking the dash apart again. Had to reinforce the support bar as the gauges ended up being heavier than I thought and i didnt want the dreaded shimmies!, Had to run the wiring for the lights etc, etc, etc,. Mechanical gauges are more accuate(and less expensive sometimes) but they are a pain in the butt installing. Strill it was worth it and even my teenagers think it turned out well. As soon as I find the right blackmail on my teenage boy i will get the pictures posted--he has to show me how!
All parts used are availaable from general auto parts stores and stores like home depo/Lowes.
Electric gauges would be much easier to hook up. Dont you have some defi's? Get them on dude--you will be surprised on the readings. I treat my car differantly now.
basics of what I did
1- take the dash apart--to remove the center pod--instructions on the forum
2- in the nav tray space(lot of it) I ran a 2inch flat aluminum bar across it and screwed it in to the recessed ledges(you will see them) -position the bar where you want it.
3- remove bar and mark the gauges mounts to it to mount them where you want them- dont forget to angle them toward the driver. suggest when drilling the holes to make them big so you can adjust the gauge once mounted. Dont forget to figue out the height of the cup you are using etc--and the center pod is not flat across !
4- test fit all
5- mark the area of the center pod to cut out and just do it! I used drill, saw and dremel --cut an elongated oval shaped out.
6- test fit everything again--make adjustments--there will be some--to get the height I wanted I ended up using a 2inch corner brace from lowes mounted on the support bar so the corner brace was hanging down off the bar and then mounted my gauge pod to that. The gauge pod base was positioned VERTICAL not horiz. That way I could easily adjust the height I wanted.
7- fabricated a couple support pieces for the gauge bar going across the nav tray area and install them in the obvious areas
7- run wires etc, etc.
8- check it all out--run the car before you put everything back together.
9 used nyon inserted nuts to tighten all the bolts you use so you dont have to worry about them vibrating loose.
Drink just a couple of beers while doing this(especially while cutting the center pod out!)
I ran my needed power for the gauge lights from the light in the ashtray area. easily accessed.
the hardest part was designing and finding the right parts.
oh yea I used 2 5/8 inch AutoMeter Pro-Comp liquid filled mechanical gauges with the black Auto Meter gauge pods. With the RB sensor mounts (oil and water) I spent about $400 on the package.
olddragger
It did take a "while" for me to install these as i was having to fabricate as I went--unexplored area so to speak. Now that I have done this I could do the 2nd one in 4-5 hrs.
1st time I have had the dash apart etc-- I had to design and build from scratch a support bar for the recessed cup gauges, had to make sure there was access for my mechanical temp probes to get through the dash, out the firewall and to their appropiate homes. Had to measure--try ,then remeasure and refabricate my support bar to get the gauges at the right dept so I could have access and room to mount them and then remove them for any problems i may have without taking the dash apart again. Had to reinforce the support bar as the gauges ended up being heavier than I thought and i didnt want the dreaded shimmies!, Had to run the wiring for the lights etc, etc, etc,. Mechanical gauges are more accuate(and less expensive sometimes) but they are a pain in the butt installing. Strill it was worth it and even my teenagers think it turned out well. As soon as I find the right blackmail on my teenage boy i will get the pictures posted--he has to show me how!
All parts used are availaable from general auto parts stores and stores like home depo/Lowes.
Electric gauges would be much easier to hook up. Dont you have some defi's? Get them on dude--you will be surprised on the readings. I treat my car differantly now.
basics of what I did
1- take the dash apart--to remove the center pod--instructions on the forum
2- in the nav tray space(lot of it) I ran a 2inch flat aluminum bar across it and screwed it in to the recessed ledges(you will see them) -position the bar where you want it.
3- remove bar and mark the gauges mounts to it to mount them where you want them- dont forget to angle them toward the driver. suggest when drilling the holes to make them big so you can adjust the gauge once mounted. Dont forget to figue out the height of the cup you are using etc--and the center pod is not flat across !
4- test fit all
5- mark the area of the center pod to cut out and just do it! I used drill, saw and dremel --cut an elongated oval shaped out.
6- test fit everything again--make adjustments--there will be some--to get the height I wanted I ended up using a 2inch corner brace from lowes mounted on the support bar so the corner brace was hanging down off the bar and then mounted my gauge pod to that. The gauge pod base was positioned VERTICAL not horiz. That way I could easily adjust the height I wanted.
7- fabricated a couple support pieces for the gauge bar going across the nav tray area and install them in the obvious areas
7- run wires etc, etc.
8- check it all out--run the car before you put everything back together.
9 used nyon inserted nuts to tighten all the bolts you use so you dont have to worry about them vibrating loose.
Drink just a couple of beers while doing this(especially while cutting the center pod out!)
I ran my needed power for the gauge lights from the light in the ashtray area. easily accessed.
the hardest part was designing and finding the right parts.
oh yea I used 2 5/8 inch AutoMeter Pro-Comp liquid filled mechanical gauges with the black Auto Meter gauge pods. With the RB sensor mounts (oil and water) I spent about $400 on the package.
olddragger
04-27-2006, 10:32 AM
#86
My son is now blackmailing ME! Will not show me how to upload the pics from his digital camera unless I come up with something worth his while! I threaten his life--the old I brought you into this world and I can take you out ! phase but he knows I still need him for the tax deduction. Hang on guys--its a coming.
olddragger
olddragger
04-27-2006, 01:16 PM
#88
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: GAH!
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
www.imageshack.us
Click "browse"
Find your picture and click "Open"
Click "host it"
When it's done uploading, you'll get a page with 3 textboxes full of words.
Click in the 2nd textbox , "Thumbnails for forums(1)"
Copy that text
Paste that text into your post
Repeat for each pic :D
Click "browse"
Find your picture and click "Open"
Click "host it"
When it's done uploading, you'll get a page with 3 textboxes full of words.
Click in the 2nd textbox , "Thumbnails for forums(1)"
Copy that text
Paste that text into your post
Repeat for each pic :D
[/URL
04-30-2006, 01:11 PM
#95
i'll get some more. Of course had to cut an oblong hole in the center pod to install all this. It is not really evident by casual looking. the gauges and pods take up most the room. You can custom make an insert if you like to completely enclose that cutout. trick is getting them the right height. takes some adjusting. i will get top view pic through the windshield, outside the car and night pics( i have red lights in them so they "match" the stock lights. really looks good at night. If anyone ever makes a good reasonable center pod piece, you can always remove this and install. I am learning a lot about the temps of the car etc. we need a better radiator. Thats the bottom line.
olddragger
olddragger
04-30-2006, 06:22 PM
#97
New Member
Originally Posted by BlueRenesis82
why do you say we need a better radiator? or will that become evident when I get my gauges in?
I think the problem with coolant temperature is very much air temp dependent... I had no prob at all yesterday when I was cool (17 degree C).
My water temp never hits over 100 degree C even I forgot to put the fan controller on. With that on - I can run 7 laps under 95 degree C.
Strange
04-30-2006, 09:26 PM
#98
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Virginia/Maryland
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where did you connect your water temp sensor to? I hooked mine up today to the heater line right next to the windshield washer tank. I don't get a reading at low throttle positions, but it seems to work fine if I give it some gas. Either the coolant temp is below 100 deg F at idle, or there is insufficient coolant flow in that line at idle.
04-30-2006, 09:30 PM
#99
Originally Posted by rkostolni
Where did you connect your water temp sensor to? I hooked mine up today to the heater line right next to the windshield washer tank. I don't get a reading at low throttle positions, but it seems to work fine if I give it some gas. Either the coolant temp is below 100 deg F at idle, or there is insufficient coolant flow in that line at idle.
i think the rb option is a good one.
beers
