TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Interesting. I have a set to install and try out soon ....

cwatson

iTrader: (1)

After I had fade with the HP+ in my first year of tracking, I just said screw it and went with DTC-60s. HP+ would fade after 2-3 laps on Star Specs. I have no plans to put an less brake on the car. If you track the car so much that you don't have time to swap wheels + pads/check suspension before each event, then you probably won't care about the DTC-60 dust which is the only real downside on the street. DTC-60 dust will weld itself to your uncoated wheel if it gets wet and is not wiped off. Do this once and you won't have to worry about it again because the wheels are already 'ruined' .

I don't have experience with other full-race pads on the '8. I can't say if the DTC-60s are best, but I recommend running race pads for the track.

laurichj

At ORP?

carbotech XP8s are a pretty good mid range for the 8 on good street tires. Good bite, good modulation. I don't like them on the street though.

TANKERG

^ Yep. All four rotors looked the same.


front left



rear left

Spin9k

I'm not sure why you think you can't use track pads on non-track tires? Brake effect is still modulated normally with track pads, just like street pads. The difference is in the initial feel and bite, and amount of grab, not just ability to stand abuse. You'll have much better braking experience with good pads, which leads to a better driving confidence and ultimately will help your driving skills, street tires or not.

Beyond that you've got more problem than the deposits shown. Unless your pads have a limited friction surface, you have some serious uneven wear going on. Could be just old pads wearing badly, or stuck slider pins, or piston problems, or rotor thickness issues from wear. I'd look into that and change pads while you're at it.

TANKERG

New pads, rotors and freshly cleaned and greased pins installed on around Aug. 10th. The track day in question was on Aug. 30th. This was after a back to back track day with a track day the week before.

These were on hp+ pads

fastlaneracing

Well i have run dtc60 both street and track with both street and r tires, no problems more then that you Will screw your rims from the bedding.

Spin9k

Well then, full credit to those wonderful hp+ pads... one day when you get decent track pads you'll understand.... and btw I've not had street pads on in maybe 5 yrs... w/right pads changing out to streets is not necessary.

cwatson

iTrader: (1)

You don't need track tires to run track pads (it just makes it even more important). I ran DTC60/OEM F/R for my last track day. My last event (240mi) was on crappy all seasons and I would have lost half my hot laps if it weren't for the DTC60s on the front. Regarding wear, the OEM pads wore extremely fast, going from 75% to -5% (yea, steel-steel) in one day. The DTC60s went from 100% to ~50% in two days. I would have been in big trouble without the DTC60s on the front. Despite the DTC60s costing 2-3X more, they are wearing 3-4X slower than the OEM pads on the track. If you want to run fast lap after lap on a 3000lb car, you need dedicated track pads. And the DTC60s stop the car every time. I had a "two-step" in the pedal and the data suggested I was not getting much rear brake force after a couple of laps. HP+ wore about the same rate of the DTC60 FWIW, but I was stopping a lot slower on them.

Carbotech XP12/XP10 are a little pricier but I understand the dust and cold bite might be okay enough to make them streetable.

Regarding rotor deposits: I find that it's really bad (uneven braking, sticking pads) for the first 2-3 days after running on the track. I ride the brakes on the highway in ~4th a bit each day to clean them off. Everything is back to normal within a week.

dmitrik4

iTrader: (5)

2nd the Cobalt suggestion. I used the XRSs with AD07s, and really liked them. They were also fine (not great, but fine) in driving to/from the track, but swapping pads is so quick that there really is no reason not to just do it at the track, especially if you're swapping wheels.

Spin9k

Yea I had the XRSs 1st, but upgraded. This shows what they currently recommend for baseline setups for Club Racing, HPDE, and Autocross. Guess they did away with the semi-track XRSs.... 2004-2010 (all models)

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

Wow, thanks for all the input... I decided to order DTC60 front and rear to start out with. They are about the same price as HT-10 and ~100 less than the cobalts which I'll consider for next time depending on how well the DTC60s work.

cwatson

iTrader: (1)

Good choice. Don't forget some high temp fluid. I recommend getting a set of speed bleeders...best $40 you can spend. Also, don't let wet DTC60 dust sit on your wheels unless you want the gray powdercoat/semi-rusted look.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

I use HT-10's and I drive them on the street a ton as well, but then again I don't care about my rotors/noise/brake dust very much. Running 255 Hoosier R6 or 275 Nitto NT01. Never had a problem with them and they slow the car down plenty fast.