^^^Boo this man!!

j/k. I am kind of itching to move on from the RX8, but Jeff convinced me to stay in STX for 2014 so he can continue to beat up on me at local events . He'll have a quick co-driver, and I imagine Neal's car is probably a bit faster than mine, so I expect to see both of them at the pointy end of STX next year.

The Green Monster also has a DL1, so we can do some data comparison against the RX8. Should be fun.

 

I tried pulling 30-60 times yesterday to compare relative power. I apparently don't know how to setup a CF card for the DL1. I'm getting SoloStorm for next year and will pull data off the DL1 with the already installed serial to bluetooth, but right now I am tapped out on money

The cars will be very different from one another. I'll have Rivals to run in the spring, so we will be able to compare true apples and oranges based on car/chassis.

I'll be seeing a number of you at national events next year and look forward to another year in this great class.

Everyone enjoy the silly season.

 

From what I've seen, DL1's are pretty picky about CF cards. A friend of mine just couldn't get his to work until he bought the card that RT recommends. I've been using the RT-recommended card from the beginning, and it works without any trouble. It's a SanDisk Ultra 2 GB if that helps you at all. I don't think they're made anymore, but can be had fairly cheaply on eBay or direct from RT. Pretty pricey for 2 gigs, but at least you'll be able to use the DL1!

In fact, the only issue I have is with getting SoloStorm to work with the DL1's serial/bluetooth interface. It works, but only intermittently. So if you get that working, I'd love to hear an update!

 

The previous owner of the car, Neal Tovsen, is a bit of a technology and software wizard. He mentioned two things about the serial to bluetooth via solostorm, which he said worked without issue when he was patient:

1. Time, you need to make sure that you account for at least 60-90 seconds after turning on the DL1 to get everything to sync up. He has a switch installed so you can leave the DL1 running with the ignition off, also helps to keep GPS sync'd, but mentioned some issues with Ignition interference upon starting the car. I will be hard wiring the DL1 to the battery thru the switch in the off season.

2. The actual serial to bluetooth adapter. I will look at who makes the one I have. I think it was pretty expensive, but was included with the car. I'll take a look the next time I am in the car and report.

Jeff

 

I believe after two seasons of RTR in my car it's time to move to STX. I ran a set of borrowed 245 RS3's on 17 x 9's at our Dec non points event and that sold me it was time to move on. If I were looking for cheap 17 x 9's what's the best deal to be had right now?

 

Depends how cheap... If you enter "Mazda MX-5 Miata SCCA STR Class" as your vehicle on Tire Rack, it will give you some good options from TR Motorsports / Kosei / Enkei. They 17x9 +45 RPF1 is popular enough that there always seem to be a few used sets available if you do a little searching. Then there are all the people leaving STX for DSP next year who might be selling their old wheels (not me).

 

I'll be selling a set, But there not nearly as cheap as the ones Broda posted. But they are much lighter.

 

Selling my STX wheels and tires...


Selling my STX wheels from last year. Perfect condition. 15.6lbs 5x114.3.

They currently have a set of 255/40/17 Toyo R1R's on them that have about 40 runs on them. Still tons of tread left. One of the best rain tires around, and also the tire that won STX in Lincoln.

Letting the wheels and tires go for $2,000.

 

I have some used tires

Set of 255/45-17 BFG Rivals with 5-6/32 tread depth

Set of (2) 245/40-17 & (2) 255/40-17 Hankook RS3s with 6-7/32 tread depth, 140TW rating

Located in DFW, TX metroplex area


.

 

Hey guys i was going to order a set of FCM bumpstops to try to limit understeer (stock suspension). Any of you have experience with this? Is there any way I could say, trim the heel of the stock fronts or swap front rear bumpstops to try to fix understeer?

I know money is speed and such but I'm a poor college student who graduates with employment in May so income is low until then.

I just want to be faster than my buddy Alex in his frs which he keeps stuffing ever fatter tires under his car haha

 

You may want to re-read rule 13.5D first ..... Or at least pray nobody protests you for same

 

When I said stock suspension I was just describing that I have the factory components, not inappropriately posting a stock class question in an stx thread

That applies to stock class, I'm not worried about that as long as it's stx compliant which 14.5A says is fine. I'm not competing for victories so nobody is going to care anyway. Any reason why I couldn't just stuff some packers in the rear? It's just a band aid fix I was checking to see if anyone could intelligently comment on from experience. I did some more reading online and it seems most people don't even know what bumpstops really do anyway, but I did find some good info. I'm going to start by making some homemade packers for the rear, then try trimming the front stops, I'll post my findings for you guys if you're interested.

EDIT: guess it'll have to wait while I go play in the snow with the winterforces! I don't think I'll be developing enough steady state G forces to ride on the bump stops in this weather!

 

sorry, I likely assumed you were just the latest off-topic poster to roll thru here ...

 

haha, not surprising, I do keep an eye on this thread and ive seen em.

Any thoughts on bump stops though?

 

Howdy,

Irony is ironic.

:-)

I think its YOU that needs to read 13.5D.

You can run any bumpstop of any stiffness in Street, as long as its not longer than the standard part.

Mark

 

13.5D clarifies that a bump stop serves the same purpose as a suspension spring. Are you allowed to install stiffer springs in Stock? It says they can be shortened or substituted, but that the compressed shock length at initial contact point cannot increase. Does it specifically state they can be stiffer? No, it does not.

I can see how what you wrote might be assumed, it is not really that clear and is a worthy protest topic IMO based on the above.

However it is of no consequence in STX and off topic to this thread

 

Howdy,

LOL.

Were your springs on the STX car the same rate as stock? Does 14.8.A explicitly state that they can be stiffer?

:-)

The only restriction on replacement bumpstops is that they cannot be longer than standard. There is no restriction on stiffness. The rule is extremely clear and non-standard bumpstops have been SOP in Stock/Street for years.

I will 100% agree that its off topic to this thread though. I just wanted to point out that you'd made an error here, in case someone new was reading and making prep decisions based on your incorrect statement.

Mark

 

I haven't been in Stock since before the latest SEB ruined it and will take your word on it

 

I view anything that gets someone's nose in a rulebook as a positive contribution.

All that being said, what do you guys think?
Should I chop those bad boys up?

 

It's definitely legal, so that's not an issue.

 

I never meant to open the legality can of worms I was just looking for a voice of experience regarding the effectiveness

 

Howdy,

For this season on my CS car, I'm going to try this. Common internet lore seems to be to shorten up the front bumpstop a little and soften it up so that when the car gets to the bumpstops the front stiffness doesn't go up (relative to the rear, I mean), but I haven't actually tried it myself.

I would think in STX bumpstops would be more about protecting the shock than anything else, since you can set the suspension more correctly.

All just my theory/guesses though... If you give it a go be sure to post up your results.

Mark

 

I've tried searching this extensively but haven't clearly found the answer. What RPM does the S1 hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd (in case they are different)? Documentation I found says 9400rpm as I indicated in another thread but doing more reading in many threads here it seems much lower. Reason I ask is I'm building the standard gearing spreadsheet I do for cars and I want it to be accurate. My RX8 is going to be a PCA car for 2014 which means we do have lots that typically top out around 40mph for many cars. It's STX relevant as the mods will be STX based in preparation for 2015 so I can get away from ProSolo indexes. Thanks.

 

i never waited till that high to shift to 2nd, cuz there simply isn't that much power left at rpm that high

 

I'm hoping for a bit more of a scientific/specific answer.