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Am I to assume that the moment I show up at Nationals, I'll be immediately protested for not having engine insulator panels installed Mark? Juuuuuust curious what you're hinting at there...
As for intake, that has been taken care of at least.
Edit: Which might I add... Every National event I've gone to last year and this year, I made it very clear to the other DSP competitors that I don't have my engine bay insulation... They looked at me and said,"And?" so clearly..Not a big deal. Very different from..Ooooh I dunno... say a certain someone who ran in a SP class last year at Nats with a gearbox that had modified gear ratios when they misunderstood the update/backdate rules...
Did you go around and tell everyone at Nats last year that you had an illegal intake system?
If you know you're not legal and you don't do anything to correct it how is that any different than being intentionally illegal? If it's no big deal then why is it not allowed? If other competitors go to the effort and expense to be legal then what justifies you to shirk off your own personal responsibility, and not just for yourself but also for sponsors etc.?
Otherwise what I said earlier is that due to life situations I won't be out this year. If you think the cost of those panels is worth chancing a National Championship over, and if it comes down to it and there is a challenge it is a guaranteed loss, all the excuses and rationalizations in the world aren't going to change the outcome.
Otherwise its entirely your choice to compound one mistake of not understanding the rules with another of not fixing it despite now being aware of the situation. What I will tell you is that if the roles were reversed and it was me in the situation of clearing being wrong it would be corrected at the soonest possible opportunity.
There's nothing to argue. I'm just sharing my experience from having served on the SEB, the PC, the AC, and a couple dozen National events as Protest Chief. Ask the SEB/**** for an official ruling if you want. They won't argue with you over their opinion.
Otherwise there was an honest misinterpretation mistake, it was brought to your attention, it's out in the open & obvious, and despite being easily fixable almost a year later the situation still exists. I never said anything about protesting anyone, nor mentioned anyone in particular. That said, there's no bad guy black cloud over anyone filing such a protest. Per the rulebook that's actually allowed ...
Thinking of a possible DSP build, but trying to find a wheel that won't break the bank and fit over the Racing Brake calipers. Rota RT5 17x10 +50 is priced right but that barrel looks awfully narrow. Any one have experience trying to fit these over larger calipers?
There are other threads on the site. It could depend on which kit you have. Stoptech BBKs are notorious for being the hardest to fit wheels over. No need for a BBK. The OE sized RacingBrake kit offers the least weight and most bang for your buck.
Can't really disagree with Mark's assessment of legality, but my comment is that the DSP grid is a pretty laid back one. I haven't seen a protest in the two plus years I've been in the class.
Don't do modifications that are illegal for purposes of improving performance (i.e. illegal body modifications to fit wider tires like pinch welds inboard of the hub face, significant illegal lightening, internal engine mods, etc) and you will probably be OK.
I do my best to have a 100% legal car but **** falls off from time to time.
Well I'm new to the whole DSP thing. I switched from a catch all class (street tire open) to DSP. My region has very low SP numbers. Most run STX or stock classes. I have ran one event in DSP and won class. Beat my imaginary friend. I just switched back to stock intake because intake was illegal and so was my APR wing. I'm looking forward to a build over winter and running some national events next year. Lots of great info in this tread. Just thought I'd say hi to you guys
Nice job, you guys! Sorry I couldn't stick around until Friday to see you run the West Course. Looks like it was a close battle through third runs. Super happy for you both.
Interesting thread. We are in the UK and just started testing our RX8 racecar - wondered if you guys using big sticky slicks ever had any issues with oil pressure losses or oil starvation due to oil sloshing round in the sump?
It's just too early for me to make any event decisions yet. I can't be sure about when the car will be ready and am also considering another trip to Japan around late spring -early summer. Some of the changes may result in the car being difficult to drag-launch from a standing start, or at least I'm not entirely sure what the impact will be. So until the car is actually functional and reasonably sorted, the decision on whether to run Pro Solo or not is up in the air.
Interesting thread. We are in the UK and just started testing our RX8 racecar - wondered if you guys using big sticky slicks ever had any issues with oil pressure losses or oil starvation due to oil sloshing round in the sump?
It comes down to the length of time spent in a high-G cornering situation. For the type of racing being discussed here we see extremely high dynamic corner loading including back-forth direction reversal such as a slalom or staggered offsets, but usually for a shorter period of time as compared to a large road circuit with long, sweeping turns. For a serious track/circuit car a dry sump is always preferred, but of course the initial investment is rather steep. The rotary engine has the advantage of the rotating assembly being separate of the oil sump. You could try running a high oil sump level with a puke tank to catch and return burped oil, but it's a kluge whereas the dry sump is a genuine solution. A better lower cost choice might be an engine oil accumulator like an Accusump.
Interesting thread. We are in the UK and just started testing our RX8 racecar - wondered if you guys using big sticky slicks ever had any issues with oil pressure losses or oil starvation due to oil sloshing round in the sump?
My rear suspension only has about 13k total miles on it, but being 10 years old I decided to bite the bullet and swap out all ten arms & update to new S2 parts
I think the Mazda parts guys need to throw a few more part number stickers on them ...
Hey guys, quick question and I don't really wanna sort through the pages to see if it's covered.
Aftermarket wheel, can I solder a resister into the stock wiring harness behind the wheel to keep the airbag light off when I put an aftermarket hub/wheel on my 04 ?
Thanks!!
You don't have to solder it. Regardless of whether you do that or just tape it in as long as you don't cut off or modify the harness it's fine. For future thread reference, I don't care about the light myself: http://miataroadster.com/works-bell/.../i-407516.aspx .
got it last week in the mail.
Going with an ebay hub, nrg gen 2.8 quick release and a grip royal wheel, just waiting on the hub now.
if it's too close, we'll get a slim hub
gf's car, so she went with the tiffany blue one by grip royal. meh - as long as she's happy.
unfortunately this is her daily and she's gotta 79 sa22 with a 13b 4 port in it that we're gonna be autoXing come early spring rather than the 8. cant be breakin anything on the daily
It comes down to the length of time spent in a high-G cornering situation. For the type of racing being discussed here we see extremely high dynamic corner loading including back-forth direction reversal such as a slalom or staggered offsets, but usually for a shorter period of time as compared to a large road circuit with long, sweeping turns. For a serious track/circuit car a dry sump is always preferred, but of course the initial investment is rather steep. The rotary engine has the advantage of the rotating assembly being separate of the oil sump. You could try running a high oil sump level with a puke tank to catch and return burped oil, but it's a kluge whereas the dry sump is a genuine solution. A better lower cost choice might be an engine oil accumulator like an Accusump.
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Thanks - I was thinking that you guys in the US would see a fair bit of high G corners for sustained period.
We are fitting an accumulator for the time being (wasn't aware of a Renesis dry sump, plus at this point it is likely to be cost prohibitive). We are using the EPC valve set at 25psi (lowest available), but a little concerned if the accumulator dumps the 6 pints of oil when the car is at tickover when hot, as we can see OP's of around 18psi - is this quantity likely to overflow the sump out the breather/filler cap?
Not for autocross use, which is what this thread is about. On a large road course track, possibly.
However, I doubt you'll see so much G load as for an accumulator to dump a full 6 pints before the pickup is covered again
about $3k for a front cover Mazda Motorsports style dry sump + the cost for peripherals; plumbing, tank, etc. I'm not sure if its a modified REW or RENESIS specific dry sump. There is always the option for an external pump/belt setup too.
Bought a used 4.777 diff from a 2010 S2 RX8 and am picking it up tomorrow. Planning to pull the OS Giken lsd out of my 4.444 diff and send it in for freshening, then slap it into the 4.777 diff. Originally wasn't planning to go to the lower rear gear setup with the S2 trans, but have since decided that the lower diff & 1st gear combination will help get off the line easier with the featherweight clutch/flywheel.
Cleaned up 9 years of dirt/dust from the engine bay this past weekend in preparation of stuffing the engine/trans back in soon. Almost hate to throw insulator panels back on as it looks so much better without them. But I discussed it with a long-time **** member and his opinion was that in no way can they be intentionally removed since they are not any where near the exhaust (removing "exhaust heat shields" is allowed). So I bought all three new insulator panels to replace the ratty originals.
Nothing much going on in here lately, so I'll post another dumb engine bay pic. New insulator panels are in and other misc. items installed, etc. Radiator goes back in next temporarily for laying out the new shroud/fan assembly. If this doesn't take too long the engine/trans could be fitted this weekend.
