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If the pinch weld gets messed up one way or another, it wouldn't be legal. You would need to find a legal way to fit them (if you even can), sorry. Enough people know the RX8 can't fit 315's due to the pinch weld issue that if you started winning it would definitely be questioned LOL. I heard of someone who had a car that had self clearanced to fit wider tires and they were protested at a national event.
Darn. Well I guess I will give it a go with the 285 Hoosiers and see if it's livable, if not then maybe 275s will have to be the ticket.
On a related not, who of you are running the 4.777 with the S1 trans?
Enough people know the RX8 can't fit 315's due to the pinch weld issue
Well Kenneth posted earlier in this thread that he could get 270* of steering wheel rotation before impacting the pinch weld with a 315 tire. I’m just curious to know many National level autox courses you ran this year that needed this much steering input?
Well Kenneth posted earlier in this thread that he could get 270* of steering wheel rotation before impacting the pinch weld with a 315 tire. I’m just curious to know many National level autox courses you ran this year that needed this much steering input?
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Not sure how he can get that with 315’s. That is what we can get with the 295’s running max caster. Unless he cut his fenders or took them off he also wouldn’t know how they fit in the full range of motion. Maybe if you run a CS ride height they will fit? Lol. We might experiment more this winter, I’ll let you know what we find. Also, at max caster it creates some funky caster jacking that is non ideal.
There were two pro events this year with very tight corners that we got very close to “full lock”. At a small local last weekend I was literally sitting on full lock to make two corners after consciously setting up extra wide. I wouldn’t want to lose any more steering angle than we have. Also, it can limit your ability to make a steering correction in a big slide, it’s surprising how much angle you sometimes want. The run is usually done if you have that big of a catch anyway, but it’s nicer on the tires not to spin lol
I’m not saying it’s the thing to do, but I don’t think anyone has proven that it can’t be done with the certainty that you implied earlier. The one thing I will add is that using a narrower wheel with a wide tire does cause the unloaded tread surface to bulge out more.
I’m not saying it’s the thing to do, but I don’t think anyone has proven that it can’t be done with the certainty that you implied earlier. The one thing I will add is that using a narrower wheel with a wide tire does cause the unloaded tread surface to bulge out more.
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Oh I completely agree, just everyone is aware of the pinch weld issue so they would be looking to see if it had been modified if someone shows up with 315s.
Not sure how he can get that with 315’s. That is what we can get with the 295’s running max caster. Unless he cut his fenders or took them off he also wouldn’t know how they fit in the full range of motion. Maybe if you run a CS ride height they will fit? Lol. We might experiment more this winter, I’ll let you know what we find. Also, at max caster it creates some funky caster jacking that is non ideal.
I definitely wasn't at a CS ride height on my 2812s, and I had the spring pulled to do those fitment checks so I checked throughout the range. If you take a look at the photos, you can see that the tire hits the pinch weld pretty well inboard of the sidewall so I'm not surprised that you get the exact same interference issue with the 295 as that geometry is probably nearly the same. I haven't cut my fenders yet but I did check with a different set of wheels that put the inner sidewall at the same place as the 315 to see what else would hit, and it does just barely rub nearly everything at full jounce with some more steer in it. Either way, it's already been concluded that you can't do this in DSP and I agree with that 100%.
Well on the very first page of this thread is a pic of my car running pretty low on 295/30-18 Hoosiers with 18x10.5+43 wheels. I was looking at the fender liners yesterday and there are no rub marks where the fender liner goes over the pinch weld. The tires are a bit worn though (thanks JohnV), but I also had caster set on minimum, 3.x deg. I was looking at it while putting the front suspension back on less shock last night. So I can throw the wheel/tire on there and double check it fairly easily.
Well sort of . It was just rubbing across the *liner* at the top pinch weld area with the 295/30 -10.5+45 combo for where I’m expecting max bump position to be considering ride height, spring/swaybar rate, etc., but that’s also not considering that when the tire is going to be close there that the weight should be transitioning to the other side with the wheel extending away from rather than compressing towards the pinch weld. I think it’d be fine for the 295/30 on my setup, but I’ll concede that the 315 is going to be a major issue for SP. It’s likely a moot point for me because I’m not initially intending to run either one of those sizes.
Baby steps, but slowly marching towards completion. Need to cut the MAF hole then bond the bung on the cf tube and then intake work is mostly done. Finally getting the suspension all back together, though I’m looking at an aluminum multi-piston caliper with combo park brake conversion for the rear. Finishing out header/exhaust and fuel system mods are next on the list. Also working on the radiator & shroud mods that will be a bit different than most. The fender flares are way over due after clearing customs almost 2 weeks ago, gotta luv USPS ordered from Russia so maybe I’m under investigation for collusion and they’re being held for evidence
I couldn’t recall ever seeing any, but a quick google search turned up a few pics. Looks like they were all in the engine bay. The PVC sewer pipe version was a real jewel . Technically I suppose I copied the VFAD without the flap or box well nothing unique really going on there. Straightening out the UIM with a straight MAF tube and the MAF being as close to the TB as possible is the main thing.
Yesterday/last night I finally did the S2 fuel pump install/conversion, worked on the AiM-Pista dash display installation, made measurements for an upcoming rear aluminum brake caliper coversion, and separated the intake valve solenoid/vacuum tank from the UIM oil breather assembly for remote mounting in the engine bay
Back at it again later after catching some zzzzz’s
Got some more parts ordered today for the header/exhaust; need to receive and fit these, then one more step/parts for the final alignment and completion
Ordered the rear e-brake calipers today, will flush out the details once they’re installed, but intially I’m expecting another 10 lbs drop over the OE calipers plus the 6 lbs drop I already have with the RB 2-pc rear brake rotors
Somebody who shall remain nameless helped me out and got me a set of solid aluminum rear subframe bushings so I didn't have to make my own.
A piece of threaded rod, a big socket and some nuts and washers were enough to install all of them in less than ten minutes. Removal of the factory rubber bushings took significantly more time
Detailed out more of the header/exhaust and intake mods this weekend. Also pulled out the aero parts and started assessing installation for them. Rear brake setup should be delivered today.
Is it bad when the cheapest/easiest thing I can do to the car is body/paint work?
Still trying to decide what route to take for suspension but figured I'd fix the cracking paint and door dings in the mean time. Only question left is do I stay yellow or spray it Laguna Seca Blue? Hmmmm.....
Btw Team, what made you go with the AiM setup? I had been debating on trying to get a Racecapture Pro setup working since we can't use a lot of the super fancy CAN stuff the nice systems utilize and I think the most important things are going to be a good IMU and an abundance of analog inputs for whatever sensors I decide to run down the road. Another nice thing about the Racecapture setup is that it can control outputs as well in an IFTTT style(thinking water/meth, other fans, oil pressure lights, etc).
I guess my question is what made you decide that was worth double(if not triple) the price?
You guys are so fancy with pretty intakes and aim dashes and shiny new exhausts and ultra lightweight brakes. The only fancy thing we have is the same Mazda steering wheel LOL
Unfortunately, I didn't lose to JV by close enough to justify lightweight brakes yet! I figure once I get into the thousandths of a second rather than tenths then I can justify lightweight brakes LOL. At least the stock ones work amazingly well.
I’m not a good driver and am sure you’ll crush me. I get more enjoyment tinkering to explore the limits and playing the mad engineer/fabricator than anything else. Just keep doing the thing you enjoy and I’ll do the same
I got a good deal on a complete, used AiM setup 5 years ago and am just getting around to installing it. They released newer versions over the last year or two, but it’s good enough for my purposes and it makes sense to use it rather than buy something else now.
. It was just rubbing across the *liner* at the top pinch weld area with the 295/30 -10.5+45 combo for where I’m expecting max bump position to be considering ride height, spring/swaybar rate, etc., but that’s also not considering that when the tire is going to be close there that the weight should be transitioning to the other side with the wheel extending away from rather than compressing towards the pinch weld. I think it’d be fine for the 295/30 on my setup, but I’ll concede that the 315 is going to be a major issue for SP. It’s likely a moot point for me because I’m not initially intending to run either one of those sizes.
ordered from Russia so maybe I’m under investigation for collusion and they’re being held for evidence 
. Technically I suppose I copied the VFAD without the flap or box 
