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Thank you so much! I'm elated with 2nd. I held the lead today until JV's last run. He really deserved the win! Mike was crazy close behind me too. Awesome rx8 finish, maybe next year we can move up a spot ;p
Yeah I didn't see one from 9k. Team that is my 2nd option but not through maz motorsports. I believe my license is expired. I havent been competitive since 2013 so id have to read the contigencies again.I'd rather not pay for a bar that is not needed but beggers can't be choosers. Thanks
Got out of autocross a few years ago, I think I'm going to give regional hpde a shot out here in the bay area.
Thanks guys! The car was fun and easy to drive. We have ideas to make her even better for next year, along with continuing to improve the nuts behind the wheel.
The shocks were the biggest part of the budget. Everyone told me, do it right the first time or you will spend more money in the long run.... so I went with Anze Penske 7300s. They completely transformed the car. The package was a little under $4k including springs but using OEM top hats. We now have spherical top hats front and rear (We DIY made the rears). I'm certain Anze could make some as well and I would highly recommend it to avoid the side loading on the shaft. Another option would be to run inverted but that wasn't in our initial budget.
I have spherical tops and bottoms both ends. Does it use the RX8 tall steel or MX5 short aluminum rear shock towers? I just swapped out my modified MX5 aluminum rear shock towers back to the RX8 steel ones. With a high rear spring rate I became concerned about flexure. Was planning on a rear strut bar too for the same reason.
A lot of the aftermarket shocks just use the MX5 rear shock length and short MX5 shock tower, so I wasn't sure.
Like I said, Anze did not provide any top hats since originally we planned to use the OEM top hats (but they do offer them/can make them). About a month ago we DIY made our rears into sphericals using OEM RX8 steel ones. The MX5 ones were 2" shorter than the RX8 ones so we would have lost too much compression travel unless we lengthened them, and we also had concerns about losing the extra attachment points.
Great Drives Tamra! Thank you for setting up the co-drive with Tim, super helpful and easy co-driver to have. It was invaluable to have someone to help benchmark where car is vs. drivers. I spent so much time thinking about the OPR on Wedensday, i think the piece of mind is worth more than the actual effect of shaving between runs.
It's only a matter of time before that Jacket is yours. I'm hoping this offseason is super productive.
Nice numbers, but I wouldn't get caught up in the dyno comparison malarkey. In fact, it wouldn't surprise me if a Dynojet gave lower numbers, having seen it happen before.
Started my header surgery today ....
The 12 degree collector is so long that there won't be but maybe 6"- 9" of additional tube length to add.
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Were you still looking at quotes for the Header for more runs of it?
Not initially. I want to build a prototype first to keep my build going forward for now and come back to that later when I look at having a lightweight copy made.
New fasttrack is out. Sohn Adapter is clarified to be legal (but under the new reliability language, not the other angles thought about in here). It does specifically address that no re-purposing of exisiting parts (like the washer bottle), but no issue with new reservoir installation.
So the new containers are not a problem, but removing or utilizing the existing washer bottle is right out.
There is a proposal for a language change for the Radiator allowance, removing the word "core", and instead just considering the overall dimensions (though the language about the liquid capacity of the Core would remain).
Getting this header cut apart turned out to be more difficult that I had originally anticipated. The main engine flange was no problem and I knew they welded the three pipes to each other externally where they came together near the collector. However, they also must have had slots cut internally and slid a piece of metal into the center area between them and then welded it shut inside each tube. What a pita it was to get that separated, but everything is workable and it should be downhill from here now ....
Came up about 3 or 4" short on the extension pipes, so the likely explanation is that I brain-farted not accounting for the slip joint lengths
Test fit the header last night. My dream of being able to remove the manifold without pulling the engine mount bracket wasn't fulfilled though. However the mount bracket is a lot easier to get on/off with the header. Snaking the flanged pipes in proved to be tricky, but not too bad once I figured out the sequence. Just pecking away at things, seems like everything takes way longer to do than anticipated.
Test fit the header last night. My dream of being able to remove the manifold without pulling the engine mount bracket wasn't fulfilled though. However the mount bracket is a lot easier to get on/off with the header. Snaking the flanged pipes in proved to be tricky, but not too bad once I figured out the sequence. Just pecking away at things, seems like everything takes way longer to do than anticipated.
We pulled the engine mount for ours too. Maybe we could have snaked it in, but it was going to be a PITA. Also word of advice, torque the hardest to get nuts first while the other pieces are still floating and easy to move out of the way.
