slicks, gutted, supercharged, suspension, sways, caged, aero

 

I think that's pretty normal unless your car is super low.

You can get offset lower control arm bushings to allow more negative camber if you need it. I think some are available from Mazda Competition and I believe Mazdatrix also sells some.

 

Those are +3 points I don't have today

 

I don't believe it's any points unless the bushing is metal.

Here is one that says it is not metal:

Mazda RX8 Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit, 2003-2008, by Drop Engineering

This should be no points and give you the extra camber you need. However I do notice that the website no longer shows them in stock... not a good sign.

 

You already got her caged and aero?

 

I am looking into it. Thank you!

 

some of the aero
cage is going in now

 

Here's what I got from Drop Engineering:
"These bushings do not allow for camber adjustments. Unfortunately, the RX8 front lower control arm bushings show to currently be unavailable. We do not have a date on when additional inventory will be available. I am sorry for any inconvenience"

 

I've never seen the inside of those bushings, but always assumed they held a metal spherical bearing inside like the Speedsource all metal LCA bushings

you might look around though as I've seen these for sale by various vendors, they may have a set in their own store inventory stock.

 

I agree; it is unclear from the pics I've seen. What they confirmed is that the center isn't offset like the Speedsource ones, hence there is not negative camber benefit to them, which is what I was after.

 

it will be easier to offset the UCA bushings, was considering having some made

I have the press-in lower front shock spherical bearing bushing parts available now fwiw

 

new set of the Speedsource LCA spherical camber bushings in the FS area for anyone who can use them:

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...er-kit-244903/

 

We have three PTD RX-8s from SoCal going to NASA Nationals (and one PTC). Where is everyone else? Come on out!

 

Nationals is expensive.

 

Not this year.. Maybe next year.

 

Custom delrin UCA offset camber bushings, added -3/4 deg additional camber, allowed me to get the camber setting I need without dropping the front ride height too low, made a significant difference

 

NASA PT/TT 0-point mod. Nice!

 

What would be the price on those if you got another set made?

I can already get -3.0 camber in the front but moving the top of the tire inwards might help me with tire fitment a little. I'll be running 275/35R17 Hoosier R6 on 17x10" +38 RPF1's.

 

You won't gain much for tire position over what you're doing now. You'll gain a bunch of tire clearance by raising it back up and then still being able to get the alignment where you want it. You'll also get better geometry & suspension dynamics. It's too low right now, your LCAs must have some serious angle in them at that ride height. Lots of bad juju going on there.

Working on a cost to have a run made. The one-off cost for the first set is probably more than most people will want to pay.

 

If you're talking about the picture in my signature, for some reason that photo makes it look like the car is slammed to the ground. I think it was a combination of huge tires and the suspension was loaded up because it was going over a bump. That track (Arroyo Seco Raceway in New Mexico) is SUPER bumpy. When the car is sitting on the ground the control arms are about level with the ground if I remember correctly. I may be wrong though.

 

Most people can't get anywhere near 3 deg front camber without lowering the ride height well below 13" as measured from the hub center vertically up to the fender lip. This is too low. I could only get 2.5 deg @ 13.5" and the control arm is a bit off level, but the ball joint is below the arm and is just about even with the LCA bushing centerline.

 

Word up homies. Long time no posty. We have plotted the RX-8 chassis twice and both times the geometry was much better at a higher ride height. At a mathematically desired ride height you could barely get -1.4 rear and -2.0 front and this is why we went the way of custom offset bushings. Team (as always) is right on the money and the simple way to measure this is to a fender lip. HOWEVER, this isn't the ride height of the chassis---that would be measuring the car from underneath which is more difficult and much too long of a story to discuss here.

The bottom line is this: If you are on this thread and are seeking to make your have faster capabilities, proper ride height with offset bushings is one of the preferred ingredients. LOWERING the car to get your -3 is not. NOT. The front roll center does some absolutely nasty stuff when these cars get lowered. Google that to understand cuz I won't tell you what it means and don't PM me.

The second bottom line is this: If you are running a 225 or larger R compound tire and the track conditions you frequent provide a TON of grip AND you have already stiffened your suspension then you NEED more than -2.5 front and -2.0 rear. If your in this situation than your package is pretty fast however if your slammed to get there on camber YOUR GEOMETRY is holding you back----so raise the car, get some offset bushings and do it properly.

Last bottom line (I promise): While we are on the subject you'll want to read up as much as you can on "stiction". Lack of stiction is this: pull your front or rear wheel off, remove the shock and move your suspension up and down. If you can't budge it by hand then you have stiction and your shXt is all bound up and doesn't freely move. Learn how to fix this and your car will perform better.

Meyer out

PS Get the 5.12 ring and pinion. It is the secret to making these cars go fast on the track.

 

Thanks for the input Eric.

 

well said Eric
I took that 5.12 advice btw

 

K, crew... I know some of you are at Nationals. I hear unpredictable weather, wind gusts, etc.

Good luck!