etzilon

Once I am able to get a good suspension set up that allows me OEM sway bars AND the budget allows it, 225mm wide R6s would be the setup.

kbrewmr2

When that change came into being the RX8 was a car used as an example to try and shoot the rule down all together. As you can expect those people were only successful in making sure the RX8 is classified as a 2 door car (2 door openings...).

Also for some weird reason even though I've asked for it for years and years in a row now, 3 door wagon style hatchbacks don't get the +0.4 credit, despite being the same / similar shape as 5 door wagon style hatchbacks and being a worse aero profile that most/all 4 door sedan cars.

To touch on the magical hp/weight reclass formula - I've found it is fairly consistent within similar vehicle types ie RX8s at TTD* come in at right around the same adjusted hp/weight level, all 1.8L Miatas in TTE** come in right around the same, etc, etc. Its the same formula & process that is used on brand new cars. Something with great handling will run at a higher ratio than something that's a turd in the corners. The only real beef I've got with the process is sometimes Greg gets a little backlogged, and I feel FWD gets too big a credit at ~150whp and under.

- KB, TT director with Southeast from 2005-2008, Texas from 2009-Present

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

In a way the +.04 credit for a 4 door or wagon really makes no sense anyway. For example, most four door BMW sedans weigh LESS as a four door and are more rigid. Station wagons often have BETTER aero than a sedan.

PS - krewmr2: How'd you get your 2010 R3 into TTD? For some reason the base class shows TTC for the R3 (which is ridiculous of course).

jimtaylor89

hello, im looking to build my rx8 for nasa tt in the washington area and i was curious as to your power numbers i see that you guys are listing around 200-220 rwhp is that with ported engines?

jimtaylor89

also dose any one know were i can pick up some used 17's for a good price?

etzilon

Nothing you HAVE to do for TTs. You can just use the base classing + points approach as described in the latest rulebook.

My numbers (approx. 205-207 HP) are for a reman non-ported engine.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Most of them yes. There are a few non-ported engines that can put down those numbers as well.

I got my 17x9"+45 Enkei RPF1's with almost new 265/40R17 Dunlop Z1 Star Specs for $1100 shipped in the FS section here. Other places to keep an eye out are the S2Ki forums and the RX7Club forums as well as EvolutionM and NASIOC. They're popular on any import with the same bolt pattern as us, you should be able to find a set pretty quickly.

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

I have a set of lighltly used Enkei RPF1 in an 18X9.5 for sale if you're interested in 18s. Works great with a 245-275 size tire.

jimtaylor89

>etzilon- wow those sound like good numbers for a reman but i have already paid for a street ported renisis from turblown so im just kinda guessing at what power numbers i might get when the new unit comes in im hoping for 210-220 rwhp, im super new to this and still building the car so im only hoping to do tt this season hopefully im not put into some crazy class that i cant handle.
-and ty for the heads up arca.
>magnus- your enkeis sound super tempting but tires are expensive.. can you pm me for the price of your wheels..

kbrewmr2

tire size credit - I carry a -1 out of that section (245 Conti DWs) and have no other points mods. It's not my main car, I usually have the MR2 out. I don't expect it to be terribly competitve, but it's fun to drive the car out in TT for a change of pace at times. And yes - that's legal. I've competed at Nationals against a 1999 Miata in TTF, they have a TTE base class.

There's quite a few oddities with the 4-door credit, plenty of cars that support the idea and a few that poke holes in it. Overall, it's been decided to stick with it so we all just need to learn to deal with it being a "wart" on our "frogs" and go do the best we can despite it.

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying very hard to get Greg to change the base classing to as follows:

2004-2011 RX-8 (all years) - TTD
2009-2011 RX-8 R3 - TTD*

I see him every race weekend so I'm gonna bug the hell outta him.

etzilon

Poor Greg.

Buy him a beer on my name for putting up with the RX8 crew and I'll paypal you the money

etzilon

Not sure how I got this lucky. IMHO, the most power comes back from a header/no cat/exhaust combo; know that there are a googol posts (and I exaggerating slightly) about headers in this forum - pearls of wisdom hiding at the bottom of a very polluted ocean.

jimtaylor89

well thats good to know. what header are you using?

etzilon

Custom made by a knowledgeable member of this forum :-)

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

yes but it is not just headers. You have to design the entire exhaust system that includes headers. A log manifold can be made to work too.
I took a set of tubular headers, deburred them ( at the ports etc), added a merge collector that extended the total collector lenght by about 8 inches and continued on out with true 3 inch pipping --flanges too---and I had a real seat of the pants result. Others dynos have shown a 10-15 rwhp increase from 5 K upward. Done properly there is a benefit over just removing the cat.

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

I lengthened my off-the-shelf Racing Beat header by 12 inches and although I have no before and after dyno results to prove anything my lap times did seem to improve significantly at tracks that favor horsepower.

When I spoke to some of the folks at Racing Beat a few years back they did confirm that they showed more power with a longer header when testing designs on their engine dyno. However, they didn't make the header longer because they needed it to work with stock midpipes/cats.

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

Would that member happen to have oh... I dunno... almost 15,000 posts?

etzilon

Haaaahahaha!!

It's not Mr. 15,000 post.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

I was thinking of lengthening an off the shelf header like that if I can't meet my power requirements. Did you make any bends in the addition or is it still short enough to attach before the midpipe starts the first turn?

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

No need for any bend. Just add some straight pipes and shorten your midpipe. Pretty easy.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Nice. Might end up doing that then.




I've also been seriously considering going for one of the race clutches that Mazdatrix has...

7.25" twin disc with a 4.40lbs. flywheel sounds pretty sweet but you're looking at $1250 plus the cost of a counterweight (like $100 from Mazdaspeed Motorsports).

Racing Clutch and Flywheel

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

that jerk says it sounds like one of dwalkers motorcycle theory headers, which is also based on overlap timing acoustics

wasn't it mr 15k who recommended just lengthening the RB header

for the record he never said that longer tubes didn't make power, his contention has always been that you can accomplish the same hp/tq output in a smaller, lighter, less complicated package - isn't that what racing is all about?

but certainly after 7 years worth of experience with it he certainly have no skin in the game ...

etzilon

More hahahha!

I would have loved to enlist Mr 15k help as I believe, after many hours of reading posts from this forum as well as from other reliable sources, that Mr 15k's zero-overlap theory is the way to go. However, I didn't feel I was close enough to Mr 15k to bother; my bad, if I never ask I never know, right?

Sorry to hear that Mr 15k has been skinned to the bone :-)

Anyway, your guess is wrong, Team.

etzilon

Arca: From what I understand, if you're going with a smaller clutch, go all the way with a 5.5" so you don't have to make the expense twice. I don't know if 4.5" clutches will work.