They said they have a lot in stock and that there is no reason to believe the tires are deteriorated. 225/18 are the only sizes I'm seeing on closeout:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....71OLD&i1_Qty=4

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....51OLD&i1_Qty=4

I'd love to know if anyone has a direct comparison to another tire, but this might be too good to pass up.

 

The way my builds would be is base class TT-D* for use in TT-C or base class TT-C for use in TT-B, so yes my base tire size would increase. Sorry for the confusion.

 

ah gotcha, yeah playing between TTD* versus a TTC no star would also swing some points based on tire width along with the swing in points between the two different bases by themselves, yep.

 

Yeah the preference would be for the TT-B setup to have a TT-C* base class but I don't think I can get the weight down that low. When I finally dyno I will submit my reclass request asking for what is my minimum weight for base classes of TT-D*, TT-D**, TT-C and TT-C* at X RWHP then I will have to go from there. Should be exciting next season to say the least.

 

... my head hurts, NASA is for mathletes ...

 

You'd fit right in, Team.

 

in real life its much simpler.

 

the mathlete stuff in SCCA autox is just behind the scenes...

 

So, I went ahead and got a set. Ordered Wed evening w/ ground shipping. Got them this (thurs) morning. Go tire rack! Now they sit around and wait for five months

 

No surprises here.

 

What's the history on the motor? Track miles? Street miles? Maintenance? Just wondering.

Thanks

 

Reman engine. Approx. 20K miles; 8K street, 2K mixed, then 10K dedicated track miles. Always ran cool (temp wise). Taken care of it like you would your first born. Oil/filter changes every 600 track miles (RP 5W30 and 10W40). Idemitsu premix.

 

This is speculation but I believe the side seal broke in September while out on track, then it spit a piece of the seal out during the next race when it was under load (after warmup lap).

 

so that's your excuse for a stock-ish R3 on street tires with a passenger hounding you eh?

get it fixed - Jan 18/19 comes soon

 

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

 

Rebuilt engine in. NASA TX TTD 145 ready for 2014 season!

 

I guess you went somewhere else for the engine then?

If the other was a reman I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did ...

 

Yup. I ended up talking to quite a few people and choosing to work with a local builder.

 

To complete the story, a friend and I took the engine off and put it back in. It has been quite an experience even having access to a lift.

 

It was a reman. Half of a side seal was "missing". Apex seals bowed. One rotor and one rotor housing needed replacing.

 

Bowed apex seals is an issue with the shorter Renesis depth. Even OE-depth ceramic seals are known to have the issue. That's why the pro builders recommend converting to the deeper 13B seal design when allowed.

 

I was made aware of it yet decided to go with 2mm seals, for multiple reasons. The weak link continues to be the side seal (or its spring) when doing 20+ minute runs.

 

Ended up with a decent stream of inexpensive Hoosier A6 takeoffs from our TTB E46 M3 guys (4-6 E46M3s per event and usually 7-10 cars total in TTB, and all highly competitive so they swap tires out after 6-8 heat cycles max...) so moving up to TTC locally. Don't expect to be competitive nationally since the R3 base class is still astronomically high, but should be able to snag a few TRs and have fun when there isn't competition for my TTF MR2. Will be running 245/40/18s on some 18x8 OZ race wheels I picked up pretty cheap - good upgrade from Conti DWs on the stock R3 wheels.

Setup is now:
TTC base class, no stars, 3045lb listed weight
+13 for Hoosier A6
- 1 for running 245s with 255 reference width (from TTC base)
total = 12, 7pts left to spend.

May eventually look at adding springs/shocks/swaybars to spend the rest of the points at some point (like maybe when it becomes my DD or fun car instead of fiance's main car).

I've got a thread out there asking for advice on recommended starting pressures if any of you Hoosier addicts would like to weigh in.

 

Mmm... should I move up to TTC?

 

For R6's on the Miata I aim for 24PSI hot. They have retarded stiff side walls and don't require a whole lot of pressure. The A6 though on a heavier car slows down after about 6 cycles and are slower than NT01's after about 8 to 10 cycles.