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I know, kinda weird.. Meta kit in a race car.. but it was the easiest path forward to keeping a blower and OAT readout while still getting rid of a factory radio. I'd say it's like a 4/10 idea in general.
Along with the Metra kit, I threw in some carbon fiber panels just to cover up holes in the radio, as well as block up the now non-existent glove box. Drilled some holes, bent some aluminum for some mounting brackets and bam. I added a little velcro mounted pocket for holding registration (class requires cars to be registered) and the lug key. Cutest little glovebox ever. Was also a bit bored one night and made some PETG seat heater switch deletes. They kinda suck, but it beats dropping nuts/bolts into the center console cavity. I did also end up removing the ashtray cover and left the piece in to keep the easy access 12V switched power. I use it to power cameras and such, so it's worth the ever so slight weight penalty.
What size pipe is that and where did you source it?
also, I’m curious how critical is it to keep the same diameter pipes that AEM spec for their intake? The first section is 85mm OD which then opens up to 90mm OD. I suppose this was a decision based on tuning vs just grabbing whatever was easiest for them to source?
have you considered designing a 3d printed cover to replace the ashtray that removes the lid and moves the 12v port to be accessible all of the time?
What size pipe is that and where did you source it?
also, I’m curious how critical is it to keep the same diameter pipes that AEM spec for their intake? The first section is 85mm OD which then opens up to 90mm OD. I suppose this was a decision based on tuning vs just grabbing whatever was easiest for them to source?
have you considered designing a 3d printed cover to replace the ashtray that removes the lid and moves the 12v port to be accessible all of the time?
It's the same size piping as the AEM kit, so I believe it's 85mm in that area like you said. There are certain airflow benefits to having a smaller orifice leading into a larger one, but it's not my area of expertise. Got the tubing from Vibrant, just an off the shelf elbow.
Printing a 3D cover would take a lot of time to get right, and designing/printing complex curves isn't worth it to save ounces.
Easy way to drop some weight, as well as get a cutoff switch put in. Went with the Antigravity ATX-20 since it had the best weight to useful ratio in my opinion.. plus it seems like the pick for everyone and their brother were using for lil ol race cars. I grabbed the SAE posts just to make it a bit more versatile in the way I was going to mount the wiring to it. The battery itself weighs ~5lbs and starts the car up juuuust fine. The biggest issue I am concerned with is heat from the engine bay.. but I guess a lithium fire is par for the course.
Grabbed some beefy enough terminals to mate to the positive lead and a Hella disconnect switch. I didn't REALLY want a key'd one, but it fit the task and can do 100A continuous through it, so send it. It also allowed me to get the factory wiring in basically the OEM location.
The MeLe mounting box was a bit of an after discovery as I was gonna cut out an aluminum plate with some threads that basically did the exactly same thing in the exact same place, minus the side portions of it. At $180 it's definitely more expensive than required, bit it saved me from making something myself that would fit like **** and take too long to do. All I had to do was drill two holes and use the existing M6 fasteners that hold on the oil cooler and coolant lines. Bing bong, done. I dig.
Battery starts the car up without issue in the cold, and it should be able to hold charge for long enough to do it a few times... either way I did also pick up a charger for it if need be, and the "restart" button should allow it to be below the 11.5V (or whatever) it's rated to shut off at and still start the car. Will report back on findings if this thing sucks or not. Willing to give up some ease to lose the weight!
I don't think lifepo4 batteries are easy to catch fire. It might swell up if it gets hot? Correct me if I'm wrong.
Originally Posted by jmauld
not easy, but not impossible either. Some people claim they are safer than AGM batteries. (I don’t know)
heat is a big contributor to this, so insulating that battery or moving it to a cooler spot would be a good idea.
I wouldn't say that are any better at high temp than another other type of Lithium batteries. LFPs are basically useless in cold temperatures though.. that was one thing we were working on dealing with when I was working in the Ford EV Controls group as they moved to LFP batteries in 2024 model year vehicles. Fun side note, we had some software that basically ran motors extremely inefficient to warm up batteries in cold temperatures. Fun stuff. My concern would remain the same for any type of Li battery at high temps though.
Insulating wouldn't be a good idea since there's only heat in and not much heat out ability. It should be fine as these are deisgned for vehicles.. but the RX8 makes a lot of heat. I do still have the OEM cooling vent in place and it DOES route to the box a bit.. we will see. Can always just throw a thermister on the top and check it after some runs.
Originally Posted by Federighi
Install looks clean. Good choice on the AG and the mounting box is a nice touch imo.
I run AG in both of my cars. For the RX8 I had it relocated it to the trunk though.
Keep it up! Fair weather is just a few months away
Thanks! I wanted to do a trunk mount, but the weight in copper wire to mount it back there seemed to be not worth it.
I wouldn't say that are any better at high temp than another other type of Lithium batteries. LFPs are basically useless in cold temperatures though.. that was one thing we were working on dealing with when I was working in the Ford EV Controls group as they moved to LFP batteries in 2024 model year vehicles. Fun side note, we had some software that basically ran motors extremely inefficient to warm up batteries in cold temperatures. Fun stuff. My concern would remain the same for any type of Li battery at high temps though.
Insulating wouldn't be a good idea since there's only heat in and not much heat out ability. It should be fine as these are deisgned for vehicles.. but the RX8 makes a lot of heat. I do still have the OEM cooling vent in place and it DOES route to the box a bit.. we will see. Can always just throw a thermister on the top and check it after some runs.
Thanks! I wanted to do a trunk mount, but the weight in copper wire to mount it back there seemed to be not worth it.
good point about the insulation. Would the area by the washer fluid reservoir be any cooler? Also, LFP doesn’t normally vent so you could put it in the cabin, but your race rules may prevent that.
it’s a sad day if this is the state of Time Attack now
it’s a race car, it goes right behind the rear seat brace just ahead of the rear RH shock tower mount
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That's where mine sits and for me I suppose it was more about moving weight off the front axle and redistributing over the rear. Also think it might help with airflow though the radiator, etc.
And as far as time attack is concerned, the only real time attack is in Japan where shops have been competing in 'time attack' 20+ years before anyone in the US figured out there was money to be made off of regular joe's trying to live out their boy racer dreams. The automotive spirit couldn't be any different between the 2 countries.
I wouldn't say that are any better at high temp than another other type of Lithium batteries. LFPs are basically useless in cold temperatures though.. that was one thing we were working on dealing with when I was working in the Ford EV Controls group as they moved to LFP batteries in 2024 model year vehicles. Fun side note, we had some software that basically ran motors extremely inefficient to warm up batteries in cold temperatures. Fun stuff. My concern would remain the same for any type of Li battery at high temps though.
Insulating wouldn't be a good idea since there's only heat in and not much heat out ability. It should be fine as these are deisgned for vehicles.. but the RX8 makes a lot of heat. I do still have the OEM cooling vent in place and it DOES route to the box a bit.. we will see. Can always just throw a thermister on the top and check it after some runs.
Thanks! I wanted to do a trunk mount, but the weight in copper wire to mount it back there seemed to be not worth it.
You should be fine I’ve been running. A shoria in mine for several years now mounted under the hood. No issues. I’m not sure antigravity was even an option at that point. Curious how they work as they may be my next option. I’ve had zero issues starting mine even when it’s fairly cold. Never tried below 24 degrees but it work fine at that temp.
Heyooo... been a minute.. I've actually got a lot of stuff that just finished up so I am dumping them in here now. First on that list, front bushings.
I had already swapped upper control arm bushings and the strut mounts to spherical, but the kit I got came with the fronts, so I may as well finish it up.
Easy peasy... except one thing I blanked on was SuperPro's clocking of the caster adding bushings. They did it by "passenger side" and "driver's side" with a photo, however they are an Australian company so I definitely pushed the first side in backwards and had to redo it. Easy catch, but something you don't think about until you do the geometry in your head while putting the control arm back in the car and go "wait...". Photos may be pre fixing, so don't go wild.
While I was in there, I swapped out the camber washer for the pass side. I don't know how, but it became a normal washer. Sheered the locator right off it. Probably wasn't helping the alignment much. Not sure if this was an on track failure, or too many ugga-duggas failure, but either way it's sorted.
Looking back, if I wanted to spend the right money and do it correctly, the horizonal mount bushing should 100% be a spherical bushing.. but I guess that's why I have a press and lots more time with the car. Aside from that, pretty happy with getting rid of the roached bushings in the front. Seemed to help fix a difference in camber side to side (though it could have also just been ride height related).
03-02-2023, 08:00 PM
