DOMINION

Well kinda Vegas State line aka Prim Nevada. So I was told it was dynoed at Dugs Dyno shop on 215 and Lake Mead Blvd put out 260 (I think) then the next day the guy wrecks it and a 240 wiped out that day too same spot
Any pix of vid? Had CA plates

ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

Could be this one: http://lvrscca.org/forum/index.php?topic=939.0

I hear this is one of two wrecks that day. The Primm lot is to small.

DOMINION

lol do I have to be a member?

Ryan2008

Author Topic: Crash and Burn (Read 260 times)
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MichaelTchen
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Mike Tchen


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Crash and Burn
« on: January 24, 2009, 10:53:39 PM »

Thanks to everyone that helped me when I crashed today. I still can't believe it happened and just wish I can just wake up like nothing happened. I turned up my boost and the car gave me more power then I knew how to handle. I am sorry for cutting fellow members day short.

I have looked at the damage and most can be fixed with bolt-on parts except:

1) The bolt that connects the front lower control arm to the cross member. The bolt has gouged the bolt hole on the cross member slightly larger. I can fix this by bolting on a new cross member, but am hoping this can be fixed on the car.

2) There is a bracket welded to the rear subframe that connects to a rear control arm. That bracket has partially sheered off. Can this also be fixed on the car?

Can someone give me suggestions as to the best way to fix these two issues? Please let me know if you know of references to people, collision repair shops, or body shops. I would like to get the car rolling again and then get all of the body work taken care of.

thanks,
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Mike Tchen
RickRowlandII
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Re: Crash and Burn
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2009, 11:04:56 PM »

Hey, really sorry to see that happen to you. Everyone makes mistakes at some time, and through overdriving the car, you will learn how to not do it again next time. Just really glad you weren't hurt.

Quote from: MichaelTchen on January 24, 2009, 10:53:39 PM
I have looked at the damage and most can be fixed with bolt-on parts except:

1) The bolt that connects the front lower control arm to the cross member. The bolt has gouged the bolt hole on the cross member slightly larger. I can fix this by bolting on a new cross member, but am hoping this can be fixed on the car.

2) There is a bracket welded to the rear subframe that connects to a rear control arm. That bracket has partially sheered off. Can this also be fixed on the car?

1) if the bolt hole is ovalled out too much, you may want to replace the crossmember anyways so that it does not affect your alignment, or leave to much "slop" in the suspension at that corner. If its only slight, or depending on how that part of the car affects the suspension geometry, it may not be a big deal once you replace the control arm. (I'm no nissan expert, so without looking at pictures of the damage I can't really give a good bit of advice)

2) if its not mangled too badly, you can probably just heat it up, bend it back into position, and then re-weld the bracket back together where it split.

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marlon.tecson
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Re: Crash and Burn
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2009, 02:30:29 AM »

I second Rick's comments about the severity of the damage. Pics would help in assessment but it doesn't look that bad as I recall.
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Dale Shoemaker
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Re: Crash and Burn
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2009, 05:35:27 AM »

Mike,

The bracket can probably be welded in place.

Dale
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Richard Rowland
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Re: Crash and Burn
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2009, 06:37:39 AM »

Mike,
The best news is your okay!

Both of your issues sound like an easy fix, the worst part is having to buy/source the damaged items.

The enlongated hole can be as simple as welding a hardware store washer to the nut side of the mount to make the hole round again.
The back bracket if it can be straighten ( a large pipe wrench or cresent works well) can be reinforced with a flat stap or gusset or fishplated. Again, hardware store and a hack saw and a drill.
The hard part is to clean where it has to be welded. All the dirt, rust, paint, undercoat has to be removed. Carb cleaner, a wire brush, scraper, etc..

I have a portable 110 volt wire feed welder, I would be glad to help if you need it.

I of course have talked with many of the other observers, but would love to hear your feelings on how you would change the cause. Course design change, drivers meeting advise, something about your car, track conditions and surface, etc... Anything that might prevent this in the future... Would also like to hear from the other accident on this?

Rick


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Michele Abbate
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Re: Crash and Burn
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2009, 07:51:32 PM »

If you need body work/paint go to Tee's Auto Body on Stephanie and tell them Abbate Motors sent you there.

good luck!
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MichaelTchen
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Re: Crash and Burn
« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2009, 10:15:17 PM »

Thank you everyone for the response and support. As I have been working on my car a few hours every night, I feel better about the situation already. Here is what I have planned to fix my problem:

1) For the gouged stud hole on the cross member, I plan to remove the cross member and take it to a weld shop to preferably fill the hole and redrill. After that replacing the rack and pinion and lower control arm should take care of the front end.

2) As for the rear end, I am in the process replacing two control arms. I will take the half shaft to Dan's Driveline to repair the boot and inspect for damage. I also will test the differential and spindle for problems. Overall they are bolt on pieces I can replace if needed. I hope the bracket is aligned enough for me to install the parts and trailer it to a body shop (I will talk with Tee's Auto Body) to weld the bracket and fix the sheet metal and repaint. I hope they don't tell me any disastrous news because I don't know body work and what is capable or not. Can they fix a bent wheel well area on a unibody?

Please let me know if I am doing something wrong or forgetting anything.

Rick thanks for asking my feelings on what happened Saturday. I remember wiping out twice before on that corner. I should have known to take that corner slower. Being a slow learning novice I didn't slow down. I thought the course was safe enough I would not slide that far into obstacles. When the other guy hit the same place, I assumed he panicked and pressed the accelerator pedal. My mistake, bad mistake. I had my foot on the brake pedal the whole time.

Ideally I guess if the coarse was setup to account for potential obstacles especially on high speed corners that would be great. However, I also understand that may lead to uninteresting courses for experienced drivers. Ultimately I hold myself responsible for what happened and am glad nobody got hurt and the club covering the property damage and loading my car on the trailer. You guys are the best! I really mean it.








Haha I thought that'd work better but I went ahead and copy and pasted everything said on that link since you can't see it. It's only one page, no videos or pictures and that's all it says ^^
If this is hard to read, I can just remove it.

DOMINION

Dam that sucks. Thanks for posting that. Dont know why I cant view it at work only at home o0