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Also,
The front iron from the original engine is in use in my current build. As are the stationary bearings an the e-shaft. Even after 186000 miles, they were reusable.
This is the unknown part that will slow returning my daily driven 8 to service. I can’t/ won’t assume much will be reusable plus the extras I want done. Hoping to part out or get a core charge reduction for most everything but the housings on my tired engine. Certainly will be very interested in seeing why it degraded when the time comes.
This is the unknown part that will slow returning my daily driven 8 to service. I can’t/ won’t assume much will be reusable plus the extras I want done. Hoping to part out or get a core charge reduction for most everything but the housings on my tired engine. Certainly will be very interested in seeing why it degraded when the time comes.
Use it cause I didn’t lose it - engine not dead yet
Personal Log Star Date 2023-163
I spent a little time this past weekend removing the air pump since it died last fall and there hasn’t been a catalytic converter in my car for a couple years. The small envelope from Racing Beat arrived Friday with a block off plate and gasket. Pretty simple process to remove and install that gave me a chance to look over the car before a track day today. Glad I was snooping around as I discovered (once again?!?) a missing bolt at the mid pipe/manifold joint. Not sure why this bolt wants to repeatedly depart. Torque spec this time when replacing was set to ridiculous.
Keeping these parts because I’m a hoarder. At least I remembered to retain the fuel system ballast(?) and the baro sensor. Mounted nicely on the air pump bracket.
Today I went with 2 of my coworkers to the little track in Mission BC. Had a great day and a couple sessions with a coach in the passenger seat (brave fellow). What a difference having someone offering advice makes to skill level increase.
My 8 continues the fire ball tradition. Newly made friend today was following me and saw several 1 foot and better flames from both sides. At $2.11 per litre this shouldn’t amuse me but, it does - ya I’m immature, so what?
Even though it’s getting tired the engine pulled well all day in 28°c. Temperature gauge never went above 202°f and most of the time was mid 190’s (should have bought metric gauges, oh well). Oil pressure still 140 psi WOT and 40 psi at idle. If I didn’t know the compression numbers I’d never guess it’s on the way out. Will be getting better brake pads soon cause mine became rather smelly during the first session. On the last session I noticed some minor blistering on all 4 tires. Only positive note is at least the severity of blistering is even through out. That’s all for now.
Our little group.
Last edited by Meat Head; 06-12-2023 at 10:24 PM.
Reason: Change title
Well, after a couple years of being a degenerate my wife convinced me to get another catalytic converter. I believe it went thusly;”So, it’s illegal to drive without a cat, illegal to shoot flames, bad for the environment, stinks, and is too loud. Why haven’t you replaced the cat?!? (raised eyebrow look went with this)
So here I am now roughly $1500 lighter with an HJS cat welded into my BHR mid pipe. Here’s a link to the cat (801 Euro): https://www.quality-tuning.eu/ca/hjs...l348-d130-in77. Free shipping from Cyprus in under two weeks.
Pip pip, I feel more genteel now the drone at 4000 rpm is gone. Still pops but, more subdued which I like. Looked at the rear flange of the mid pipe and the forward flange of the cat back - these need to go soon. Probably to be replaced with a 3” flex coupling. Both flange ends are major choke points.
Maybe now my wife won’t hate my car (was stinky and loud)
Also replaced the differential oil and transmission oil with even smoother shifting now. Redline MT90 in the transmission, Lucas 80/90 in the differential.
Yesterday I had Wolfe Mazda (Langley) service the AC. The found a leak in the condenser so now to pair a new one of those with a Koyo radiator. Reasonable cost ($225) to diagnose and recharge the system. Mazda wants just shy of $900 to replace the condenser. I should be able to come under that with the new radiator and Freon capture unit. Or just be a cheap jerk letting the pressure slowly bleed off until winter and do it myself.
Looked at the rear flange of the mid pipe and the forward flange of the cat back - these need to go soon. Probably to be replaced with a 3” flex coupling. Both flange ends are major choke points.
Something I need to address in my system too. Even the front flange of the BHR midpipe, I have 3" exhuast all the way except these flanges which I believe choke to 2.5". I'll be looking to replace mine with true 3" v'bands instead (I already have a flex between downpipe and BHR midpipe).
I expected to and was surprised my highly calibrated butt-dyno noted no change. Car still feels the same with the benefit of my daughter now able to load her work stuff in the trunk without tears from the exhaust.
I completed basic maintenance today with another oil change (Castrol 10/40 & I’m sticking with this year round). Over the past 3 years the oil drain plug has been a little sloppy due to previous owners abusing it. Today I finally had to use vise-grips to loosen it since the Allen key socket completed the journey of stripping. I need to go to Mazda tomorrow to get a replacement along with half a dozen plastic clips to retain the plastic forward lower engine cover. Stupid thing decided to rattle loose.
The heat shielding aft of the catalytic converter at the resonator has self destructed as well. Need to add this to the shopping list. At least I found the source of the periodic rattle that makes my paranoid mind go to terrible places. I sourced the vband clamp and flex coupler locally for a reasonable cost. Hope to eliminate the exhaust restriction at the mid pipe/cat back joint soon which will be a good time to replace the heat shield.
Lastly, after only 2 months I drained the Redline 80/90 gear oil. The shifting degraded significantly with this stuff. Now to try the Amsoil 75/90 GL4 that arrived with the premix shipment. This is a cheap experiment that can end any weekend I chose. I just want to know if there’s a viable alternative to the Redline MT gear oil. I’ll go back to the MT if this experiment fails. Autocross next weekend will be a good test.
The Fumoto valve has really poor clearance on series 2 cars since the drain plug is on the bottom of the pan. I think series 1 cars the drain is on the side?
The Fumoto valve has really poor clearance on series 2 cars since the drain plug is on the bottom of the pan. I think series 1 cars the drain is on the side?
Ah, you should have asked me. I had one before and yep, I couldn't get the valve installed. I think it's because there are too many threads on the Fumoto valve. Ended up pretty much destroying the valve and almost stripping out the threads as well.
And it looks like they never bothered fixing that for our cars. Joy. I get it's not worth redesigning for a low-volume vehicle, but you could just delist that item and say that they don't have anything for our cars or add a note that you need to cut the threads.
Personally, I am never buying a valve like this on any car I own/will own. I recently got a pretty big oil drain pan and I can turn a wrench to open up the drain bolt.
I've used them on many vehicles over the years, love the product. I know it's not hard to unscrew a drain plug, but once you use one of these there are no threads or seals to worry about, no oil running down your arm, no wrench to wipe off. I get it that it doesn't work for the newer oil pan, not suggesting anyone have one of these sticking out as the low point.
The idea of a drain valve is very appealing. Too bad on my car it would be torn off since the valve would hang below. Last year I was forced to drive over a large piece of plastic that caught on my exhaust and came close to igniting. If I had the valve it probably would’ve been removed by the plastic sheet on the way to the exhaust. I will continue to drop the plug in the oil change pan since I don’t enjoy hot oil on my wrist.
I've used them on many vehicles over the years, love the product. I know it's not hard to unscrew a drain plug, but once you use one of these there are no threads or seals to worry about, no oil running down your arm, no wrench to wipe off. I get it that it doesn't work for the newer oil pan, not suggesting anyone have one of these sticking out as the low point.
Here's the one on my '04.
To me, the potential mess is just not that big of a deal and my experience with it on the S2 just completely turned me off about this idea.
And if I really want to make it simple on an S1, I would just save that money and invest in an oil extractor. The oil filter is on the top so you don't even have to jack up the car and climb under it. Can't have a mess taking off the drain plug if you never have to open it, LOL.
And if I really want to make it simple on an S1, I would just save that money and invest in an oil extractor. The oil filter is on the top so you don't even have to jack up the car and climb under it. Can't have a mess taking off the drain plug if you never have to open it, LOL.
That's what I've been using for many years now. Makes oil changes quick and easy.
I need to look into this. Does it draw the oil from the dipstick tube or is there a fitting you’ve installed in the oil pan?
Your S2 has the oil filter at the bottom, so even if you can suck the oil out of the crankcase from the top, you are gonna need to go to the bottom to get the oil filter off. At that point, you may as well just drain the oil from the bottom of the car. If you want to save having the mess, it might be worth it for you, but that's your call.
S1 owners can completely avoid jacking up the car with an oil extractor due to having the oil filter at the top.
03-20-2023, 10:48 AM
