I had a 100k extended lumped into my loan (yeah I know, but it being a first year car I thought it might not be a bad idea, plus it's not like they raped me on the price, bare in mind this was 09-03) so when I got my notice I was like...er..."I already paid for that" so i must be missing something.

 

clutches generally aren't covered by warranty unless you have a really really nice dealer

 

he just bought the car... carbon doesn't build up while its sitting on the lot doing nothing.

The plugs should have been changed as part of the standard prep and the ecu flashed.

 

I got my extended warranty notice in yesterday's mail. Nice to have the extra year (I have 3 years and 20K miles on the car so far). Definitely a help with the resale value of 2004s/2005s.

Now I am just waiting for the recall notice.

 

Why are you shifting into 1st at 20mph?

Also, clutch are wear items. Did you pay for a new clutch? Or pressure plate and just had them do the work? Or did they replace the part that failed and you paid labor? Im not understanding that part. Though I am really tired so my reading comprehension could be off. If they are replacing a part in your transmission because of failure, that is warranty work and you should not have to pay for labor.

 

I just sifted trough 90 pages and I still don't have the sense that anybody knows what cause of the problem is or how the flash solves it.

What is the problem:
1. damaged cat OR
2. low compression

What is the cause:
1. Apex seal damage OR
2. side seal damage causing oil control ring damage OR
3. carbon build up if the problem is only #2

How will increasing the OMP output fix these problems.
Guess for #1 and 2: reduce friction
Guess for #3: ????

 

Its rather simple, the major problem is the lack of oil injection under certain engine load scenario's that has been causing lack of power and compression, as well as damage to engine seals for some, but not all cars. The reason for the lack of oil injection was Mazda being stingy due to emissions issues (more oil injection = worse emissions). The cat issue is not really related but is another common problem caused by engines flooding. The flooding is a result of a crappy ECU tune at the begining of the RX8's life back in 2003/2004 and spark plug design. Since both these are emissions related issues, they addressed them at the same time as they had to get the car EPA re-certified.

The carbon issue was stated to be a issue with synthetic oil in the engines, which is somewhat controvercial, I would just skipping worrying about that one as I doubt that applies to you.

 

This is how I see it, the rotary relies on internal (combustion) lubrication from sump oil metered by the MOP, the re-flash will supply a greater quantity of oil to help prevent sticking apex, side and or corner seals that can occur when there is not enough lube. Sticking seals result in poor compression, hence poor performance.
Correct lubrication results in better compression, but too much results in emission problems, blocked CATS, spark plug fowling and higher deposits.

The only real way to remove excess carbon/deposits is to strip the motor.

 

Well there you go...^^^...two very similar opinions entered from 2 different parts of the world.!

 

Thanks for the reply.

Lets make sure we keep the cause/effects straight. Oil does not have any impact on power. It can reduce compression by damaging the seals and that effects power. You may have meant just that, but I want to make sure as your comma usage suggests otherwise (to me).

Didn't the Mazda press release say something about it being caused by oil leaking into the combustion chamber? If that is true, it sounds like a side seal problem that causes an oil control ring problem. I don't see how else the symptom of low compression could be tied to converter damage, unless the ecu is doing something or not doing something based on a change in compression.



Thanks for the reply, but I doubt a little more oil would stop the seals from sticking if they were otherwise. It also doesn't explain how oil is destroying the cats.

 

^^ You will need a bit more education on how the Renesis works before any refutation of your misunderstandings above will have any meaning to you.

 

This is over your head, I don't expect you to contribute anything here, but please don't waste everyone's time by posting comments like that. You've got 3000+ posts, you can afford to sit this one out.

 

Maybe I missed this issue being addressed before, but can someone summarize what effects increased MOP injection with the latest flash would have on carbon deposits and build up??

 

Until Mazda themselves let everyone know what the real issues/ problem is each one of us EXPERTS are entitled to our own missinformed views play nice .

Michael

 

I heard this whole problem is caused when the Johnson Rod fails to engage the nanoplate, and the Carborendum is then FUBARed.

The ECU flash reprograms the eliptical timing of the Johnson Rod, and better compression and an additional 12 horsepower is the result.

 

I got my letters yesterday. We'll see what they say at the dealer...

 

I was at my dealers today. He said to expect an 18hp increase.

You were wrong....SO THERE!!

 

OK, but you are the one that said oil has no impact on power.
Obviously, your handle on cause/effect is the one that needs to be addressed.

Perhaps you should read the recall documentation a little more carefully?


Yay! Another page-topper! I think I'm going for a record.

 

You believe what you want mate, but, I am telling you from experience that APEX SEALS DO STICK allowing blow by and poor compressions/performance.

IF you Don't like the answer don't ask the question.

 

NONE, to put simply all engines have it, once its there..its there, its the excess accumulation generally by nursing the car too much...ie.. rarely putting the foot down...blowing the cobwebs out!
Long term the only way to remove it is to strip the engine and wire wheel it off.

It is also MMC (Mazda Japans) technical opinion that SOME (most IMO) Synthetic oils leave a greater deposit/build up when used compared to mineral engine oils, and they also believe that synthetic oils over time deteriorate oil control ring O rings, which in turn will allow excess engine oil to leak into combustion chambers.

But what would Mazda Japan know....less than others here that's for sure..

I will repeat that MMC have been very consistent about the use of semi and full synthetic engine oils for ANY rotary engine.

 

Oh, here in Germany they are consistent too! They want us to use their Dexelia Ultra 5W-30. It´s made by TOTAL. And TOTAL sells it under Quartz Future 9000!
And it is a HC-Oil!

 

I received the Warranty extension notice in the mail yesterday, but no recall information. I assume since I'm in a cooler climate area, I'll be one of the last to get the recall.

 

Your assertion above appears to be at variance with the advice given in my RX-8 Owners Manual which clearly shows that Castrol Syntec meets Mazda's requirements.Now I am aware of the Service Information Bullrtin for Australia etc but no such Bulletin has been issued for North America.

 

I have to shift down to first from second going about 15-20 mph sometimes because where I live there are a lot of steep windy roads, and second gear bogs out.

I got the pressure plate replaced along with some other stuff like the thorwout bearing exct... but the parts I don’t really care about trying to get my money back for, it was that damn expensive labor that I want to try and get reimbursed for.
Like I said previously I live in a very steep area so my clutch goes out more easily, having to do a bunch of stop and go stuff on steep hills kills my clutch.

 

1 - in some cases
2 - they're not doing a compression test. They are measuring vacuum, and from what I've read you can have compression within specs, but fail the vacuum test.

My guess is it has more to do with side seals and oil rings. In a scarce oil situation, it would seem that these would lose their sealing film first. The apex seals would seem to have an advantage in that they are running over a contiguous surface uninterrupted by openings. It's the soft seals damage that would lead to loss of oil control and excess oil into the cat. Carbon possibly an issue.

[/quote]

First, you must maintain the seal to prevent blowby and subsequent rubber seal damage. Thiis requires oil film of sufficient thickness. Secondly (and this is guess), you need a sufficient amount of liquid oil so that oil beginning to carbonize is held in suspension (and able to be scraped/blown away) rather than being allowed to bond to one spot and harden into permanent deposits.