replace parts or go straight for compression?
01-28-2011, 03:29 PM
#26
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Please don't give up. Maybe get a better set of one-liners with which to dismiss the ones who annoy you. But remember that there are hundreds (maybe more) other members who read your posts, and enjoy and learn from them.
I saved your compression test instructions. Yeah, I suppose the numbers won't go into an official Mazda requisition for a new engine, but the process sure brings long-term maintenance back into the realm of us ordinary guys.
Ken
I saved your compression test instructions. Yeah, I suppose the numbers won't go into an official Mazda requisition for a new engine, but the process sure brings long-term maintenance back into the realm of us ordinary guys.
Ken
01-28-2011, 03:51 PM
#27
Love it when she whines
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well this turned out to be quite interesting.
rotaryresurection: i do take the advise you gave as helpful and in no doubt yout method is a cheap way to find out the general jist of the engines performance as it stands. if i end up putting things of long enough and spring comes around im sure i will go about doing your way, and most likely go to the dealership right after and then i can get a comparison. either way as somebody already said, the price the dealership charges is only pocket change when compared to what the problem at hand really is.
it also helps to know the straight cut facts, if mazda does it for you, they will log the test resaults even if the engine does do just fine. but when a year comes later and things hit the **** fan and you need a replacement, if you show them your up to date oil changes and they see the engine was fine 12 months ago, i would imagine the decision would be easier for them to make.
anyways, thank you to all that helped. in the end its only $100, and it could never hurt to find out. like the commercials say, "have you been tested"
rotaryresurection: i do take the advise you gave as helpful and in no doubt yout method is a cheap way to find out the general jist of the engines performance as it stands. if i end up putting things of long enough and spring comes around im sure i will go about doing your way, and most likely go to the dealership right after and then i can get a comparison. either way as somebody already said, the price the dealership charges is only pocket change when compared to what the problem at hand really is.
it also helps to know the straight cut facts, if mazda does it for you, they will log the test resaults even if the engine does do just fine. but when a year comes later and things hit the **** fan and you need a replacement, if you show them your up to date oil changes and they see the engine was fine 12 months ago, i would imagine the decision would be easier for them to make.
anyways, thank you to all that helped. in the end its only $100, and it could never hurt to find out. like the commercials say, "have you been tested"
01-28-2011, 05:23 PM
#28
However, how's your armchair? Mine is pretty worn up but i'm afraid to go out in the real world and buy a new one...
01-28-2011, 05:29 PM
#29
well this turned out to be quite interesting.
rotaryresurection: i do take the advise you gave as helpful and in no doubt yout method is a cheap way to find out the general jist of the engines performance as it stands. if i end up putting things of long enough and spring comes around im sure i will go about doing your way, and most likely go to the dealership right after and then i can get a comparison. either way as somebody already said, the price the dealership charges is only pocket change when compared to what the problem at hand really is.
rotaryresurection: i do take the advise you gave as helpful and in no doubt yout method is a cheap way to find out the general jist of the engines performance as it stands. if i end up putting things of long enough and spring comes around im sure i will go about doing your way, and most likely go to the dealership right after and then i can get a comparison. either way as somebody already said, the price the dealership charges is only pocket change when compared to what the problem at hand really is.
If you crank the engine for like 5 seconds and count the spikes you can also work out an approx rpm range for the starter :p
Anyway even a cheap rotary tester costs around 250$ so if you have a couple of friends you'll do just fine. My tester literally travelled across europe and it's a pleasure to lend it out!
01-30-2011, 06:59 PM
#30
Love it when she whines
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If you go for the cheap-*** compression method buy a tester that has got a relief valve (for the lack of a better word in my vocabulary). In this way you won't see an average of the 3 chambers but, during the cranking, the indicator will spike several times showing the different "chambers".
If you crank the engine for like 5 seconds and count the spikes you can also work out an approx rpm range for the starter :p
Anyway even a cheap rotary tester costs around 250$ so if you have a couple of friends you'll do just fine. My tester literally travelled across europe and it's a pleasure to lend it out!
If you crank the engine for like 5 seconds and count the spikes you can also work out an approx rpm range for the starter :p
Anyway even a cheap rotary tester costs around 250$ so if you have a couple of friends you'll do just fine. My tester literally travelled across europe and it's a pleasure to lend it out!
i actually already thought that through, figuring each spike was a compression "stroke, revolution"? lol whatever you would call it. and good idea on the crank for a givin time and multiply the spikes for the rpm's.
hmm maybe i could look around and find somebody localy with a rotary compression tester that would loan it to me
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