Question about redlining . . .
#53
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how?
You are only in first for like 2.5 seconds when you go WOT. In other gears it would be hard for the transmission because you stay at peak power much longer and then it would produce more heat to the tranny etc.
1st 2nd, or 3rd wont really do anything. Even 4th. But if you try redlining in 6th gear.
You know what, I'll stop. Im talking out of my *** now
But I do know that if you redline in first it wont do anything to the tranny. It's only if you drop the clutch multiple times at like 8k rpm.
You are only in first for like 2.5 seconds when you go WOT. In other gears it would be hard for the transmission because you stay at peak power much longer and then it would produce more heat to the tranny etc.
1st 2nd, or 3rd wont really do anything. Even 4th. But if you try redlining in 6th gear.
You know what, I'll stop. Im talking out of my *** now
But I do know that if you redline in first it wont do anything to the tranny. It's only if you drop the clutch multiple times at like 8k rpm.
#54
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I'm going to put on my newbie hat here so flame if you must but I'm looking for the real reason why:
I know you're suppose to redline while driving not while you're parked in neutral.
I've been told that you must be in WOT too because of “load” and just redlining partial throttle won't work.
Can anyone tell me why this burns carbon versus just redlining it while parked.
I've heard “load” but what does that mean and how does it burn carbon?
I know you're suppose to redline while driving not while you're parked in neutral.
I've been told that you must be in WOT too because of “load” and just redlining partial throttle won't work.
Can anyone tell me why this burns carbon versus just redlining it while parked.
I've heard “load” but what does that mean and how does it burn carbon?
#57
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#59
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Might also die from carbon monoxide, annoy your neighbors, melt something, and probably waste a lot of fuel going nowhere lol.
#60
I'm guessing while the car is being driven, it takes in more air than just revving around parked. I'm sure that if you kept the engine at 7.5k rpms for a long time while parked, it'll clean the engine out too.
Might also die from carbon monoxide, annoy your neighbors, melt something, and probably waste a lot of fuel going nowhere lol.
Might also die from carbon monoxide, annoy your neighbors, melt something, and probably waste a lot of fuel going nowhere lol.
You need to be in gear and go over 7k for all ports to open and for carbon to be blown out. You also need to have a fully warmed up engine.
#61
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I'm guessing while the car is being driven, it takes in more air than just revving around parked. I'm sure that if you kept the engine at 7.5k rpms for a long time while parked, it'll clean the engine out too.
Might also die from carbon monoxide, annoy your neighbors, melt something, and probably waste a lot of fuel going nowhere lol.
Might also die from carbon monoxide, annoy your neighbors, melt something, and probably waste a lot of fuel going nowhere lol.
So you're thinking that the volume of air-fuel/exhaust moved in and out of the engine helps to create the pressures needed to break carbon free and move it out of the engine???
And this larger volume of air-fuel and exhaust is “load”?
How's your car by the way after the "slight scrape" you had?
I was wondering if you ever got it back all like new and stuff.
#62
went back to srsly broke
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*edit*
My car's pretty damn good right now, it was an interesting repair. Turns out, the guy who owns the repair shop was my friend's dad (and the shop owner knew my dad for like 15 years now). So I ended up getting my deductible reimbursed, along with a little extra money. The repair itself feels good, I might need to check my brake bias/wheel alignment because I sometimes get wheelplay under heavy braking, but I haven't noticed any extra wear on the front tires yet.
Last edited by JinDesu; 10-08-2009 at 08:44 AM.
#63
Get the engine nicely warmed up.
Also, remember to also try the gear labelled "R". Most people think it stands for "reverse". They are dead wrong, it stands for "RUN!" Will blow you away.
Also, remember to also try the gear labelled "R". Most people think it stands for "reverse". They are dead wrong, it stands for "RUN!" Will blow you away.
#65
My father, who is BEYOND a seasoned mechanic, told me he saw a lot of RX-7's back in the day come into his shop with the air intake valve(s?) full of carbon build up, and the cars wouldn't start. In learning about rotaries he learned that you can't "***** foot" these cars because the higher the RPMs, the more this (these?) intake valves(s) open, and if you don't open them all the way the carbons just continue to build.
When he said it, it made sense cuz he know's his stuff and I don't but hopefully I translated it well enough to make some sort of sense.......
When he said it, it made sense cuz he know's his stuff and I don't but hopefully I translated it well enough to make some sort of sense.......
#67
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My personal best was a sales guy who told me that the front strut bar was actually a safety device intended to stop the motor from coming out through the hood.
#69
NO A/C :(
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#71
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Couldn't one argue it's better to get up to 7,000 rpm (all the ports are opened) a few times a day than actually getting it to redline just once a day?
I mean I can't imagine there'd be more carbon in a rx-8 that sees 7000 rpm numerous time a day and usually cruises at 4,000 rpm than a rx-8 that sees 9500 rpm once a day and cruises at <3000 rpm.
I mean I can't imagine there'd be more carbon in a rx-8 that sees 7000 rpm numerous time a day and usually cruises at 4,000 rpm than a rx-8 that sees 9500 rpm once a day and cruises at <3000 rpm.
Valves (hope I get this right, pistons aren't my thing) are actual mechanisms that open/close on piston engines, generally have a spring pushing them open, with the cam bulges on the cam shaft pushing them closed when they need to me.
Ports are simply openings, closed when the rotor is across them, open when it isn't. Nothing mechanical to break.
+1 I feel the same way. I also get irritated every single curve in the appropriate ranges if other drivers keep me from hitting redline.
#75
I'm going to put on my newbie hat here so flame if you must but I'm looking for the real reason why:
I know you're suppose to redline while driving not while you're parked in neutral.
I've been told that you must be in WOT too because of “load” and just redlining partial throttle won't work.
Can anyone tell me why this burns carbon versus just redlining it while parked.
I've heard “load” but what does that mean and how does it burn carbon?
I know you're suppose to redline while driving not while you're parked in neutral.
I've been told that you must be in WOT too because of “load” and just redlining partial throttle won't work.
Can anyone tell me why this burns carbon versus just redlining it while parked.
I've heard “load” but what does that mean and how does it burn carbon?
Generally you're not meant to highly rev an engine when it's not under load, because that's when the parts designed to operate under load are put through the most stress.
I don't actually know how much this applies to rotary engines, but I'd imagine it does to some degree, although probably far less than a piston engine. But with a piston engine you can definitely hear the difference in smoothness between say 4k in neutral, 4k in 3rd gear and 4k in top gear.