Look if you want to go as fast as possible this is what you have to do.
1st gear= 9.4k
2nd Gear= 9.4k
3rd gear= 9.2k
4th=8.7k
5th=8.7k

 

I stopped redlining in first, particularly because its hard on the transmission(someone correct me if I'm wrong).

 

how?
You are only in first for like 2.5 seconds when you go WOT. In other gears it would be hard for the transmission because you stay at peak power much longer and then it would produce more heat to the tranny etc.

1st 2nd, or 3rd wont really do anything. Even 4th. But if you try redlining in 6th gear.
You know what, I'll stop. Im talking out of my *** now
But I do know that if you redline in first it wont do anything to the tranny. It's only if you drop the clutch multiple times at like 8k rpm.

 

I'm going to put on my newbie hat here so flame if you must but I'm looking for the real reason why:


I know you're suppose to redline while driving not while you're parked in neutral.
I've been told that you must be in WOT too because of “load” and just redlining partial throttle won't work.


Can anyone tell me why this burns carbon versus just redlining it while parked.
I've heard “load” but what does that mean and how does it burn carbon?

 

ok my turn be a but what does WOT mean

 

It means 1.21 gigawatts














































Ok fine, Wide Open Throttle

 

Wide Open Throttle

But I don't know how that helps to clean/burn carbon....

I wanta know.

 

Wide Open Throat

Oh, are we talking about cars?

 

I'm guessing while the car is being driven, it takes in more air than just revving around parked. I'm sure that if you kept the engine at 7.5k rpms for a long time while parked, it'll clean the engine out too.

Might also die from carbon monoxide, annoy your neighbors, melt something, and probably waste a lot of fuel going nowhere lol.

 

Incorrect. Doing that will most certainly cause your engine and tranny to heat up and will not clean out your engine.

You need to be in gear and go over 7k for all ports to open and for carbon to be blown out. You also need to have a fully warmed up engine.

 

So you're thinking that the volume of air-fuel/exhaust moved in and out of the engine helps to create the pressures needed to break carbon free and move it out of the engine???


And this larger volume of air-fuel and exhaust is “load”?

How's your car by the way after the "slight scrape" you had?
I was wondering if you ever got it back all like new and stuff.

 

Oh, I didn't know that you had to be in gear for the ports to open. Then that would answer the load question.

*edit*

My car's pretty damn good right now, it was an interesting repair. Turns out, the guy who owns the repair shop was my friend's dad (and the shop owner knew my dad for like 15 years now). So I ended up getting my deductible reimbursed, along with a little extra money. The repair itself feels good, I might need to check my brake bias/wheel alignment because I sometimes get wheelplay under heavy braking, but I haven't noticed any extra wear on the front tires yet.

 

Get the engine nicely warmed up.

Also, remember to also try the gear labelled "R". Most people think it stands for "reverse". They are dead wrong, it stands for "RUN!" Will blow you away.

 

Rev to redline then drop it into first! Works everytime!!

 

My father, who is BEYOND a seasoned mechanic, told me he saw a lot of RX-7's back in the day come into his shop with the air intake valve(s?) full of carbon build up, and the cars wouldn't start. In learning about rotaries he learned that you can't "***** foot" these cars because the higher the RPMs, the more this (these?) intake valves(s) open, and if you don't open them all the way the carbons just continue to build.

When he said it, it made sense cuz he know's his stuff and I don't but hopefully I translated it well enough to make some sort of sense.......

 

^ Valves? Hope you mean Ports.

 

My personal best was a sales guy who told me that the front strut bar was actually a safety device intended to stop the motor from coming out through the hood.

 

^^that totally beats mine! did u go along with it?

 

, I would have slapped him silly.

 

What's the difference? (not asking to be a smart asz)

 

It is in my 2005. I've gotten the 5k lurch a couple times from loss of traction. I haven't ever hit it when it is above ~40f outside, so I'd say that it is based on water temp, and drops away very very quickly. I think they handled the 2009 method far far better with the visual cue.

Agreed. Which is why I cruise at 4k and redline numerous times a day. Best of both worlds.

It relates to the amount of air/fuel moving through. The more air and fuel moving through the chamber, the better the carbon cleaning, similar to your oven's self-clean mode which is supposed to bake off stuff (I have never had an oven where it worked right) Without any load, you can hit redline with a small amount of fuel and air, which under load wouldn't be much more than ~2k rpm. Getting under load moves vastly more.


Valves (hope I get this right, pistons aren't my thing) are actual mechanisms that open/close on piston engines, generally have a spring pushing them open, with the cam bulges on the cam shaft pushing them closed when they need to me.

Ports are simply openings, closed when the rotor is across them, open when it isn't. Nothing mechanical to break.

+1 I feel the same way. I also get irritated every single curve in the appropriate ranges if other drivers keep me from hitting redline.

 

They both serve the same basic purpose.

However there mechanical structure are completely different

 

Another way to say it:

One is actually mechanical, one is simply a well engineered hole

 

Like a hand compared to a vagina

 

Typically when people are talking about load they mean some kind of resistance against the engine. Engines are designed to operate under load, i.e. the engine can't just rev freely it has to pull the car along too. All of the seals, gaskets, joints etc in the engine will be engineered to operate under load, and when the engine is not under load these are not in their ideal operating range. A very simple analogy is if you are standing leaning against the wall, you can stand there fine as long as you like because as you lean against the wall it props you up, but if the wall suddenly moves back a few feet, you'll fall over.

Generally you're not meant to highly rev an engine when it's not under load, because that's when the parts designed to operate under load are put through the most stress.

I don't actually know how much this applies to rotary engines, but I'd imagine it does to some degree, although probably far less than a piston engine. But with a piston engine you can definitely hear the difference in smoothness between say 4k in neutral, 4k in 3rd gear and 4k in top gear.