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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:30 PM
  #1  
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Help Red line envy!

my next step is either plugs or mazda for a diagnostic and another compression test. Last one was done just before i bought it a year ago.
My prob is engine cranks good but does not start. I checked plugs and they were wet. So checked spark and its orange not blue. (Coils and wires are new)
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:38 PM
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de flood it and get some new plugs. if its a stick pull start it
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 200.mph
de flood it and get some new plugs. if its a stick pull start it
Thats what im thinking. And ofcourse its a stick. Lol
Thank you
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 03:19 PM
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Try rebuilding the engine and replacing the fuel pump and all the parts on the car. That should do it.
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Gee, I wonder where "thewird" (Marco) is to comment on the spark being orange and not blue.......(?) If it were a BHR kit you installed I am sure he would be all over the internet with a video about it.
I didnt find the bhr kit until i ordered this one. Plugs have about 3k hard miles on em. Its really the last weak link in my part swap diagnostics.
The list : batt(red top)
terminals new
Starter n3 z1 if i remember right
Ess new
Coils and wires new upgraded
Gutted cat
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:03 PM
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Redline,

You can test your coils and wires with an HEI spark tester according to the following procedure:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-wires-222641/

I used this spark tester :
Amazon.com: OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester: Automotive Amazon.com: OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester: Automotive

You will also need a jumper cable to ground the spark tester. Since your car does not start, you may need a helper to crank the engine while you look at what's going on with the spark.
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
My comment was not meant to be critical of you.

Although the gap-type coil tester is cool, I prefer to use a cheap inductive pickup timing light as it is quicker and easier than having to climb under the car.
How does that put load on the coils like the HEI test does ?
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 08:12 PM
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I just disconnected all the plugs and stuck one at a time on and cranked. Also switching wires. And using a cable to ground the plug out.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 05:35 AM
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Weak spark could just be due to spark plugs. I will post when i find out.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 11:25 AM
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How did it happen? Was it working fine and then one morning it refused to start? Like everyone said, it could be flooded. Trying to start it over and over will only make it worse. You're dumping more fuel into the combustion chamber. Follow the de flooding procedure. Have you checked if the car is getting fuel? A friend of mine had a similar problem. The fuel pump just randomly failed. It can happen. Is the MAF sensor disconnected? Car won't start when it's disconnected.

Let us know what happens. Good luck!
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 11:34 AM
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Did it run before the coil swap?

Diagnosis is a process.....if you start swapping parts ***** nilly then you will not have a clue if things don't work

If you have an orange spark then you could have power supply or grounding issues to the ignition coils. Have you checked the power to the coils? You could have a harness issue. Ground is just as important as power as well...it takes both sides of the equation to get power to flow
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 07:30 PM
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Well. Here it goes.
When i went to get the car batt was dead we boosted it. It started and ran fine(perfect even). Some time goes by and one day it didnt start. It didnt do anything when the key was turned ( no click nothing). Found that the starter had a bad connection. Fixed it and it ran fine still. Month or two later one morning it cranked and didnt start right away. Tried again and it started. Week or two goes by and it does it again so i buy new coils wires and plugs oem (600$)🙁 Worked great even felt better then ever. But still as it got cold here on the east coast of canada it began to start harder. So i put it up for the winter. Spring comes around and i start cleaning all different things (connectors, sensors, intake and so on). Ran fine but was still hard to start. Then here we go. one day it just wouldnt start. I got it started by bumping it and it ran and idled fine. So my first thought was starter batt and terminals. Nope so new ess. Nope i checked spark and there was only one initial spark at first crank and thats it. So instead of buying coils and wires every year i upgraded and got the kit. I got it started but as soon as you let go of the gas it stalls. There is no idle just stalls. And here we are.
PS somwhere near the first i gutted the cat thinking it was bad. It didnt look very good.
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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Im going to make an appointment for a compression test and diagnostic tomorrow. Whats type of numbers am i looking for from the compression?
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Old Jun 9, 2016 | 10:52 PM
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https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...2/#post4533734
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 05:08 AM
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Thank you i dont know how i didnt see that before. I pray for high numbers.
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Old Jun 12, 2016 | 12:20 PM
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Going out to pull the 8 to mazda. I have an appointment tomorrow so im taking it there now so its there for them in The morning. Wonder if it will start from pulling it.
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Old Jun 12, 2016 | 03:34 PM
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Car started after about 150 ft of being pulled. Drove it to mazda and parked it. Still didnt idel just let off and it stalls instantly. Well see what is said.
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 01:26 PM
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So mazda didnt do a compression test. They did a diagnotic reading and decided it was compression. Is it possible to know just from experience. Should i just say to hell with it an pull the engine for a rebuild. Help me please
Also can someone post a link here where i can order a good trustworthy rebuild kit. Must ship to canada

Last edited by Red line envy; Jun 13, 2016 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 01:33 PM
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... wow...

Don't accept it. Get them to do a compression test. If they can't do one, track down a dealership that has a compression tester and make an appointment. I had to drive 1 hour to get mine done.
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Gravey
... wow...

Don't accept it. Get them to do a compression test. If they can't do one, track down a dealership that has a compression tester and make an appointment. I had to drive 1 hour to get mine done.
I asked them for my numbers and they said they just know it has low compression from experience. I dont mind doing a rebuild but i would like to know if thats what it is for sure. Anyone live in The area with a tester
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 01:48 PM
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I'm guessing you are out of warranty so if they put a new engine in you are footing the bill, I'd rather have the proof that it is failing than just their word...
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Gravey
I'm guessing you are out of warranty so if they put a new engine in you are footing the bill, I'd rather have the proof that it is failing than just their word...
I would be doing the rebuild myself. Just dont wanna rip it out if compression is decent enough to get this summer out of it
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 03:28 PM
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If you couldn't diagnose the issue what makes you think you can rebuild the engine? Come on man, you might as well fill a barrel with cash and set it on fire.
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
If you couldn't diagnose the issue what makes you think you can rebuild the engine? Come on man, you might as well fill a barrel with cash and set it on fire.
Fyi i had a feeling it was compression but with it having the power to go out my drivway and take a hard right directly onto a very steep hill and go up it no prob. Even in low rpms. I had hope that it was not compression. This engine seems much easier to take out then most. Plus having input from You guys and the help of my buddy whom is a licensed mech with his rotary certificate i should be fine. And money dont bug me (you cant take it with ya when you die). And the only way to learn is to do it. Then ill know for future problems and rebuilds.
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 04:12 PM
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You still don't know if it's compression. Taking the engine out and putting it back in is the easy part. Having the tools and know how to properly spec and rebuild one is another story.

A rotary certificate? You are pretty gullible. Good luck.
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