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Fuse for priming turbo

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Old 07-27-2009, 11:20 AM
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Fuse for priming turbo

What fuse do I need to pull so the engine will crank over and not start. The Greddy instructions say pull the PCM fuse but I didnt see anything labeled PCM. I tried pulling the fuel fuse, and it started, I pulled the ECS fuse and it didnt even turn over. Even though I have started the car and the turbo has oil, its leaking, so I want to just turn it over instead of having to turn the car on then turn it off. Thanks!

Adam
Old 07-27-2009, 11:48 AM
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adam it sounds like you got that charge pipe hooked up i assume? if you want the engine to just crank, ill look at the diagram and hopefully chime in sooner than anyone else may of assistance..
Old 07-27-2009, 01:11 PM
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disconnect the eccentric shaft position sensor....it will not start!
Old 07-27-2009, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gregs
adam it sounds like you got that charge pipe hooked up i assume? if you want the engine to just crank, ill look at the diagram and hopefully chime in sooner than anyone else may of assistance..
Hey Greg, ya, I finally got that bastard on!! Lol!! Took some finesse but its on, had some problems with the downpipe on that very top nut in the middle, thankfully I have friends with small hands but it I think its not fully on yet. According to the Greddy instructions, it says to pull the PCM fuse but didnt see one labeled that.

Originally Posted by 04RX8man
disconnect the eccentric shaft position sensor....it will not start!
but it will still turn over right??
Old 07-27-2009, 10:24 PM
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^the top nut on the downpipe is easily accessed if you lower the engine down all the way
this of course means you need to have the motor mount out

I have installed my kit about 3 times now...you will learn the tricks eventually, lol.
Old 07-27-2009, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 05rex8
^the top nut on the downpipe is easily accessed if you lower the engine down all the way
this of course means you need to have the motor mount out

I have installed my kit about 3 times now...you will learn the tricks eventually, lol.
Ya, I think Im gonna have to drop engine anyway to get a good grip on the feed line and was already thinking it would be easy to get the nut with the engine lowered. I just want this stupid car to be done!
Old 07-27-2009, 11:38 PM
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huh? why do you need to get to the feed line?
that should have already been installed and tightened before you bolted on the turbo

Last edited by 05rex8; 07-27-2009 at 11:42 PM.
Old 07-28-2009, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 05rex8
huh? why do you need to get to the feed line?
that should have already been installed and tightened before you bolted on the turbo
Ya it was, but I think thats what is leaking. Im going to get a telescoping mirror and start the car and see where is leaking from. I took Bryans advice and used liquid teflon, and Im wondering if thats my problem.
Old 07-28-2009, 12:59 PM
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If you just crank the engine and don't let it start you still won't be able to see your oil leak- there won't be enough oil pressure. Remember the engine cranks at just 225rpm or so.
Old 07-28-2009, 01:33 PM
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yes disconnect he ecc. shaft sensor it will crank but not start....good to prime it but like chickenwafer said that once it's primed look to see if it leak from that pressure....if it does try to fix before a start...if no leaks visible after prime...start it up and do a THOROUGH check of all lines fittings etc etc.
Old 07-28-2009, 03:54 PM
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Ahhh...good point guys. Thanks for that, it never occured to me.
Old 07-28-2009, 04:24 PM
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It will more likely be the drain bolts - remember how you can't tighten that back one up?

It dribbles and drips onto the manifold below. Use your mirror to find the black spot right below the inboard bolt of the drain fitting......

Pull the fitting off and wet the gasket with Hylomar or similar gasket goo, then tighten the inboard one as far as possible before you install the outside bolt.

S
Old 07-28-2009, 04:50 PM
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So you have to "drop" the renesis? oppose to pulling it?
Old 07-28-2009, 04:56 PM
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To remove it, you would lift it out, but to give yourself a little more room to work on a turbo, you'd remove one or both engine mounts and jack it down. Gives 3 or 4 inches more room.

Lower the jack carefully - easy to squish the wastegate actuator into scrap.......

S
Old 07-28-2009, 05:00 PM
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nice
Old 07-28-2009, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthTL
It will more likely be the drain bolts - remember how you can't tighten that back one up?

It dribbles and drips onto the manifold below. Use your mirror to find the black spot right below the inboard bolt of the drain fitting......

Pull the fitting off and wet the gasket with Hylomar or similar gasket goo, then tighten the inboard one as far as possible before you install the outside bolt.

S
I found a way to tighten the drain bolts easily
I used phillips head bolts instead of the 10mm bolts...worked awesome
Old 07-28-2009, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthTL
It will more likely be the drain bolts - remember how you can't tighten that back one up?

It dribbles and drips onto the manifold below. Use your mirror to find the black spot right below the inboard bolt of the drain fitting......

Pull the fitting off and wet the gasket with Hylomar or similar gasket goo, then tighten the inboard one as far as possible before you install the outside bolt.

S
Im gonna hit those one more time but Im pretty sure its the oil feed. Theres oil up there by the line, even though I find it fishy that oil is only running down one side of the turbo, where the water jackets are. (BNR upgrade) When I use my flashlight, I can see oil by the line but the left side of turbo, towards driver, looks dry. For as hard as it was coming, I would have thought it would have flooded the top of the turbo and leaked down both sides.
Old 07-28-2009, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 05rex8
I found a way to tighten the drain bolts easily
I used phillips head bolts instead of the 10mm bolts...worked awesome
YES only way to go (I think you mean allen head capscrews with a ball headed allen key )
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