Sweet chart man.

Unfortunately, mine is reading 98psi @ 300rpms.

 

My engine was just replaced, yes.

 

I'm sorry, I missed that part.
I thought that you had wrote that they looked into replacing the motor, but discovered that it was actually the injectors that was the problem.

What you might want to do first is to confirm that both secondary injectors are actually plugged in properly. Some people get their cars back after engine replacements with injectors that aren't plugged in, that then cause the problems that you are experiencing.

BC.

 

Good tip. They informed me that the $860 cost is only for the 2 secondary injectors (Aren't there 4??). No way am I paying that kind of money. Parts alone (through them) were $250 per injector. Mazmart is WAY cheaper. I'm going to get my car back and check to make sure that they are all connected. I'll order the parts and do the work myself.

From what I have read, injectors are pretty straight forward to replace anyway.

 

So I went to get my car, after deciding that I couldn't justify ~$900 for two fuel injectors. After waiting for them to put it back together, and being told I have to pay a $60 diag fee...the service adviser backs my car out of the service pay and directly into a Miata. Now they have to do body work.

At least the manager waived the diag fee.

I'm beyond irritated.

 

what the F? I will ask them to pay more than just bando the car up. and you should make them put it into the paperwork and WARRANTY it for at least another 3-5 years.

As for the injectors, like BD said, make sure the wire is at the correct order, I have a feeling those idiots at dealership listened to that wrong M-tip they have on hand, and wondered wtf is going on, most dealership techs can't figure anything on their own.

 

If the fuel injector you're talking about is this, it's sold for $250 at atkinsrotary.com and shipping should not cost so much

 

So, the mechanic said he was 80% sure that it was the injectors causing the misfires on rotor 1 at high RPMs.

Additional information and recap:

Mechanics notes said they swapped plugs wires and coils and the misfire stayed on rotor one. They also checked the cat and it was fine. They did a PCM re-flash as well.

So to sum everything up:

Replaced:
Air Filter
Oil
Coolant
Coils
Wires
Plugs
Engine
Cleaned:
MAF Sensor
Tested and Passed:
Cat. convertor
Compression
Coils, wires and plugs (They swapped them around and the misfire stayed on rotor 1)
Coolant pressure test

Does anyone else have any thoughts? I know that fuel injectors can fail, but it is rare, especially with only 46k miles on the car.

 

I updated the following list to include ESS. The misfire only happens above 5K RPM. It does not happen at low RPM and it is a Rotor 1 misfire.

Replaced:
Air Filter
Oil
New Fuel (91 Octane)
Coolant
Coils
Wires
Plugs
Engine
Cleaned:
MAF Sensor
ESS
Tested and Passed:
Cat. convertor
Compression
Coils, wires and plugs (They swapped them around and the misfire stayed on rotor 1)
Coolant pressure test

Possibilities:
Injectors
Fuel Pump


Aside from the possibilities listed directly above, does anyone have any other thoughts?

 

injectors rarely fail, most of the time it just need a clean up for like 25 bux.

let them swap it and see what happens.

oh, tell them don't listen to m-tips on their computer, its wrong.

 

Is the cleaning where they put additive into the fuel?

The funny part about them "swapping" them out is that they never volunteered to do that. They swapped out plugs and coils, but for the injectors they jumped right to REPLACE. Even the mechanic said he was 80% sure that was the problem.

 

Really cleaning injectors is a little more involved than putting an additive in there.

 

So that would be this process instead:

 

Nope, that's seafoam, which only cleans the intake system, and any valves that the seafoam comes in contact with.

The FIRST thing YOU need to do is ensure that the idiots at the dealer did in fact properly RECONNECT the fuel injector wires. If they didn't, then you would have the same exact symptoms as a fuel injector that doesn't work.

Once you have determined that the injectors are in fact properly connected, and properly routed, then you have to determine which injectors have gone bad, and replace them, or remove them, and send them off to a shop that cleans/rebuilds them for you.

BC.

 

Whoever made that seafoam DIY is full of misinceptions.

An air pump is not a sensor.
The nipple is not on the UIM

Also how would this clean your valves, its injected into the LIM past the SSV and the VDI. I can see maybe the APV but that would mean you have to keep the RPM over 6K for them so open and have is go through them.

 

it's suppose to clean the surface of the rotors and seals, but it destroys CATs unless you disconnect it.

 

Is there a schematic on what connector should be where?

 

So...

I found a local shop that will take my injectors, test them, clean them and photograph the process. I gave them both secondary injectors. They tested them cold and they were fine. They then tested them at engine temp and one of them shot a steady stream instead of a "mist". Judging by the pics, it was certainly the cause of the problem.

If anyone needs fuel injector cleaning service I would HIGHLY recommend this guy, Fuel Injector Specialists - Home He only charged for the cleaning of the other injector. He won't charge for an injector that is damaged or faulty. The whole process is $25 per injector, so I only had to pay for the one. After cleaning the good injector, he also replaced the O rings and got them back to me (complete with bard/old parts in a bag).

Amazingly thorough for $25. I've now ordered a new injector and hope to have this thing up and running finally.

 

25 per injector is standard /w all o-rings replaced, but glad u found the problem

 

I was finally able to get the Fuel Injectors replaced (not a difficult task, I just didn't have a lot of time). It fixed the problem and the 8 is back up and running like new. The place that did the injectors believes that the faulty injector probably washed out the seals and caused the whole issue.

This concerns me because my car gave no indication of failure until the check engine light came on and the car stalled immediately. There is no way to be sure that this will not happen again. Makes me nervous.

 

Parts fail, there's nothing you can do about it until it happens.
The big difference is once the part fails, how quickly you notice the problem, and have someone diagnose the problem correctly, and actually correct the issue.

The quicker you realize that there's a problem, and you get the real problem fixed, the less likely there will be collateral damage caused by the failed part.

But, we're all glad you got your car fixed, and for considerably less than what the dealer was going to charge you to do the work.

BC.