Zuhalter Vati

So a few months ago, I was driving my car on the highway. While merging onto the interstate, I red-lined. The minute that I did, the check engine light came on and the car stalled out. Stranded on the side of the interstate, I did a double check on fluids. Everything was fine. I needed to get home, so I tried starting my car. Eventually it started and I was able to drive it home. The following business day, I had it towed to Groove Mazda (The Ugly Incompetence) and asked them to look into the check engine light and to check the engine compression. They looked it over and said it needed spark plugs and a de-carb and that there was no need for a compression test. They said it would cost $1000 (No, that isn't an extra zero). I asked if that included plugs, wires, and coils. They told me that the RX8 does not have spark plug wires. Upon hearing that, I knew that this was not a job that I wanted them to do, so they started the car up and I drove it home.

I ordered the plugs, wires and coils as well as an air filter. I replaced all parts, cleaned the MAF sensor and the problem still remained. The Catalytic Converter was glowing red. I let it cool and I removed the cat. The car seemed to run better. I decided to try another dealership, McDonald Mazda (The Good Dealership). I explained the problem and they said they would look into it. They were terrible at calling me back, I had to call them on a daily basis to get an update. They told me that the original diagnostic quote was going to be double because it was taking longer than they anticipated. A few days passed and I called again, I was told that they were waiting on some steps from the tech line. They wouldn't tell me much, so I decided to stop in and talk to the mechanic, of course the day I stopped in he wasn't there. Eventually I was able to get a hold of someone that could answer my questions. They had run a compression test and the front rotor had ZERO compression. (I got the compression numbers when I picked up my car. It was not zero as they stated, instead they were: Rotor #1: 5.2, 5.3, 5.5 and Rotor #2: 5.4,5.3, 5.5) They said that they were trying to get the engine replaced under warranty, but that when they printed the paperwork, it showed expired. I had brought my car in the day before the 8 year warranty expired. They said they would call me the next day. I waited and heard nothing, so I called them. They told me that Mazda had agreed to replace the engine and that it will be done by the end of this week!

So far (aside from not being called back) McDonald Mazda has been very helpful. They didn't ask for service records or any kind of documentation. They simply looked into and found the issue at hand.

Now I am faced with a choice of trading in my 8 or keeping it. I've lost a lot of faith in the car. My engine only had 44,000 miles on it. (Very low miles for a 2005 RX-8 Shinka)

TL;DR: Groove Mazda was terrible, McDonald Mazda seems to be on top of things, and my RX8 is getting a new engine!

Now I just need to find out if the new engine has the same warranty.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, the warranty is on the chassis. I would talk with the service rep and find out if the engine they are putting in is covered under the factory 8yr 100k warranty (which is expired, so no engine coverage), or if it's covered under the 1yr 12,000 parts and service warranty.

From talking with MNAO last year, I found out that engine replacements ARE always under the 8yr 100k on the chassis, but it's entirely up to the local dealer's district manager whether or not the 1yr 12k will apply to engines replaced under the 8yr 100k but are now out of that warranty.

If the discussion is in your favor for having the warranty, get that in writing.

Zuhalter Vati

Good advice. I will be getting whatever I can in writing!

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Dealers are all idiots, don't be afraid to tell them so.

I do often and frequently!

monchie

^ +1

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Rofl, no spark plugs wires, did his/her face turned red when he/she said that?

U made the right choice, congrat on the replacement. Dont feel bad about the car, u got it used i assume? Early programming messed a lot of cars up, including mine

Zuhalter Vati

Nope, original owner. I had all the flashes done as early as I could. I had also brought it in for any recalls I could find.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Don't feel bad, my 04's (08/03) engines died @ 19k (2004) and then again @ 47k, (2008) third engine is now showing low compression @ 115k.


Look at the bright side, your 8 year old car has a fresh engine in it for free.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Since when are remains considered fresh

Zuhalter Vati

I was ok with my 8 year old car having a properly broken in engine with 45k on it. :P Now I get to go through that again.

I'm actually concerned with what the warranty will be on this "new" engine. I am very seriously considering selling the car. I don't want to, it's always been my baby!!

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

When it's free you really can't complain much. I mean even I would take the free engine, wouldn't you?

Hydr0nium

Are you in Colorado? If so, check out Mazda of Lakewood. Getting my motor replaced there and they are doing a superb job of keeping me satisfied.

Bladecutter

Just don't try to buy a new car from them, as their new car sales team are the biggest bunch of scumbags out there in all of Colorado hawking Mazda's.

BC.

Zuhalter Vati

I am in Colorado. My car was supposed to be done today. As is par for the course, I haven't heard from them all week so I decided to call. They told me the parts just came in yesterday, so the car won't be done until next week. I asked about a loaner car and they told me they are $32 a day. WTF? My car is being repaired under warranty, surely you can throw in a loaner car since you have had my car since July 3rd?!?!

I really hope the mechanics are better at their job then the guys at the desk...only one of the desk guys seems to be worth anything so far.

I'd consider taking it to another shop, but I can't drive it, and honestly I am tired of towing it, "driving" it to dealerships, and dealing with it in general. I have been a long time Mazda person (3 Miatas, an RX-8 and a B2000 pickup) but this ordeal is really making me look elsewhere.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, a lot of service departments will put warranty work on the back burner while they try to screw other people out of more money.
My CEL came on 4 days after I bought it. The non-Mazda dealership I bought it from agreed to send it to a Mazda dealer for diagnostic work. They kept it 4 days & I had to pay for a rental.

Emery_

iTrader: (8)

Damn I really got lucky with my dealer, not much of a hassle to get my engine replaced under warranty and they provided me (being 20 years old at the time) with a 2012 Mazda 6 loaner. I also got back my $100 spent on the initial compression test.

Either way you get a fresh start with a new reman. I don't think they're as bad as people say on here. Drive it hard and premix...

smedly

I also have good things to say about Lakewood Mazda . My wife drives the RX8 as her daily car . She brought the RX8 in once to have a new key coded and the service guy recommended a compression check along with some other things . That afternoon we were told Mazda was giving us a new engine since the compression test was borderline . Even though I never brought the car to them for ANY service before(I do all my own) they never asked for proof of oil changes,plug or coil replacements . Brought the car back when the engine came in and 2 days later picked it up after work . Also the wife has had good experiences with Sill Terhar in Broomfield . Neither service dept treated her as a "woman" therefore she wouldn't know any better .

Zuhalter Vati

Well...After almost a month, I got my car back. The engine was replaced, but I noticed that the RPMs fluctuate at idle and the car will sometimes make a noise like there is a vacuum leak. When accelerating, the engine lugs out at 6k RPM and then quickly resumes. It makes a much more hig pitched noise when revving up, and on the way to work, I got a check engine light. Awesome.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

There is a sensor (1 of 2) on the transmission that causes this. I forget what it's called. It's located by the catalytic converter.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If the RPM's just waver around vaguely, then it's likely something messing with the air flow, either a vacuum leak, a MAF problem, or O2 problem.

If the RPM is oscillating very precisely, it's the neutral switch. The switch itself is reliable, but the wiring to it, or the wiring and clutch trigger switch on the same circuit at the clutch pedal have problems. Often from just not being reconnected, though it may have been pinched during the re-installation of the engine. This will throw a CEL, so get the code read.

Zuhalter Vati

Alright, I went back to the dealer and they ran a scan. There were misfires, and it said my "Fuel Level" was 10% but I was over half a tank. What is a "normal" amount of misfires? (The dealership said it may be bad fuel and I should burn it out and refuel) The fuel isn't old or bad, but there was "seafoam" in it. Highly doubt it is the problem...

Looking at the figures below, any thoughts?

System:
Software Version: Mazda IDS-85.05
Vehicle: RX-8 (North America Specs.)
Engine Type: 13B-MSP High-Power
Capacity: 654x2cc
VIN:###########

All (CMDTCs)
Pass - (ABS/TCS)
Pass - (EPS)
Pass - (IC)
Pass - (RKE)
Pass - (SASM)
Pass - (TPM)

P0301-FF-(PCM) - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected. - No Status Available for this (DTC)
B1342- (RCM) - ECU defective
B1933- (RCM) - Air Bag Circuit Open - Loop No. 1, Front Passenger Side
Freeze Fram - Mode 2
P0301 - (PCM)
(FUELSYS1): OL - DRIVE
(FUELSYS2): -----
(LOAD): 100%
(ECT): 127.4°
(SFT1): 0%
(LFT1): 0%
(RPM): 5448.5RPM
(VS): 41.64MPH
(SPARKADV): 28°
(IAT): 84.2°
(MAF): 120G/S
(TP): 78.43%
(SAIR_COM): OFF
(RUNTM): 01:21
(EVAPPCT): 0%
(FLI): 10.59%
(WARMUPS): 4
(CLRDIST): 20.503MI
(BAR0): 12.035psi
(CATTEMP11): 1.647K°F
(VPWR): 14.1V
(ALV): 77.65%
(EQ_RAT): 13.37:1
(TP_REL): 67.06%
(AAT): 84.2°
(TP_B): 83.14%
(APP_D): 76.47%
(APP_E): 65.88%
(TAC_PCT): 100%
FREEZE FRAME - MODE 12
P0301- (PCM)
(FUELSYS1): OL - DRIVE
(FUELSYS2): -----
(LOAD): 100%
(ECT): 127.4°
(SFT1): 0%
(LFT1): 0%
(RPM): 5448.5RPM
(VS): 41.64MPH
(SPARKADV): 28°
(IAT): 84.2°
(MAF): 120G/S
(TP): 78.43%
(SAIR_COM): OFF
(RUNTM): 01:21
(EVAPPCT): 0%
(FLI): 10.59%
(WARMUPS): 4
(CLRDIST): 20.503MI
(BAR0): 12.035psi
(CATTEMP11): 1.647K°F
(VPWR): 14.1V
(ALV): 77.65%
(EQ_RAT): 13.37:1
(TP_REL): 67.06%
(AAT): 84.2°
(TP_B): 83.14%
(APP_D): 76.47%
(APP_E): 65.88%
(TAC_PCT): 100%
PENDING (DTC)
P0301 - (PCM) - CYLINDER 1 MISFIRE DETECTED

Mode 6 Test
Response Lean to Rich
(OBDMID): 1, Test: 80, (Min): 0.367, (Max): 255.992, Value: 1.230
Response Rich to Lean
(OBDMID): 1, Test: 81, (Min): 0.320, (Max): 255.992, Value: 1.437
Low Sensor Voltage for Switch Time Calculation (constant)
(OBDMID): 2, Test: 3, (Min): 0.299V, (Max): 0.299V, Value: 0.299V
High Sensor Voltage for Switch Time Calculation (constant)
(OBDMID): 2, Test: 4, (Min): 0.400V, (Max): 0.400V, Value: 0.400V
Rich to Lean Sensor Switch Time (Calculated)
(OBDMID): 2, Test: 5, (Min): 0s, (Max): 0.080s, Value: 0.032s
Rear to Front Switch Ratio
(OBDMID): 21, Test: 80, (Min): 0, (Max): 0, Value: 0
Evap Monitor Large Leak Check (mA); Phase 0 Excessive Vacuum Limit (Pa)
(OBDMID): 3a, Test: 80, (Min): 0.527mA, (Max): 255.996mA, Value: 1.785mA
Evap Monitor 0.040 inch Leak Check (mA); Phase 2 0.040 inch Leak Check Vacuum Bleedup and Maximum 0.040 inch Leak Threshold (Pa)
(OBDMID): 3b, Test: 80, (Min): 1.781mA, (Max): 255.996mA, Value: 1.785mA
Purge Flow Monitor (mA); Blocked Evap System Line – Screening Test (Pa per second)
(OBDMID): 3d, Test: 80, (Min): 0mA, (Max): 17.781mA, Value: 17.742mA
Secondary Air Functional Check
(OBDMID): 71, Test: 80, (Min): 0s, (Max): 4.992s, Value: 0s
(EWMA) misfire counts for last 10 driving cycles
(OBDMID): a2, Test: b, (Min): 0counts, (Max): 65535 counts, Value: 5counts
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles
(OBDMID): a2, Test: c, (Min): 0counts, (Max): 65535counts, Value: 26counts
(EWMA) misfire counts for last 10 driving cycles
(OBDMID): a3, Test: b, (Min): 0counts, (Max): 65535 counts, Value: 1counts
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles
(OBDMID): a3, Test: c, (Min): 0counts, (Max): 65535counts, Value: 4counts
Engine Coolant Temperature
(OBDMID): e1, Test: 81, (Min): 71°C, (Max): 6513°C, Value: 81°C

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Normal misfire count is zero. Any misfires at all indicates that there is something wrong.

Go through the misfire thread linked in my sig.

Zuhalter Vati

Thanks, I'll check it out. They said that some misfires on rotary were normal and these were low counts.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Well, unfortunately they are common, but that's because of the number of owners that neglect their car. Some techs out there haven't seen a healthy 8, ever.

Zuhalter Vati

I just realized that your misfire thread is what I used to trouble shoot and figure out that my engine was dead in the first place:

I replaced all plugs, wires and coils prior to engine replacement
I cleaned the MAF (have not yet replaced it) prior to engine replacement
Changed Air Filter prior to engine replacement
Cat was glowing red ( I pulled it off and it looked fine inside) prior to engine replacement
Did the 20 break stomp prior to engine replacement

I did not clean the ESS
I did not replace or check fuel pump
I did not check the fuel pump wire harness

With that being said, somewhere near the passenger foot wheel I can hear fluid running when at idle and it increases when I raise the RPMs. It sounds like I should look into the direction of fuel. Do any of the numbers that I included above measure fuel pressure or output?