OK here is my dumb question. I was planing on driving my car this winter but after 1st snow and seeing how others are driving, I am going to buy a beater car and park my 8 this winter.

I have a detached garage that is non-heated. I am going to keep the car there. Should I remove the battery and put it on charger in home and use fuel stabilizer and keep it there for 3 months, or leave it like it is and take it out once a week and drive it? Which one is a better choice?

I have never stored a car for longer than couple of weeks. What else should I do while storing?

 

Or, get yourself a pair of winter tires and enjoy! If you go this route, make sure to clean the car at LEAST weekly.
If you store it, yes to all those questions. Plus, add air in the tires and seal off any openings so critters don't get in! And give it a good cleaning!

 

The problem is others do not consider bad weather. I had SUVs tailgating me cause I was going a little slower than speed limit due to snow and ice. I just do not want anything happens to this car. On top of that in cold morning I have to wait good 10 mins to fully warm it up.

The only openings I can think of is the tailpipes right? Should I plug the air intake too? Some cloth in there is fine right?

 

So you get to decide which oil to use? That seems rather random. Does Mazda say it is ok to use either?

 

if you get a set of good winters, take it to an empty lot and learn handling, accelerating and breaking. This should increase your confidence on the road And, you shouldn't have to wait 10 min! Just wait till the RPM's drop bellow 1500, then drive keeping them below 3500 until fully warmed

Plug them with some steel wool. Which intake do you have? Plug it, just for peace of mind

 

They also don't recommend adding turbos to your car...

 

I paid for the car, I am paying for repairs, so I am deciding what goes in it. I have a feeling this thread is going to change to regular vs synthetic oil discussion

 

Does anyone know how to Photoshop here? I am thinking some 18 X 10 w/245 Nitto RXZR might be better than a 17 X 10.5 Enkei RPF1 (black) with 235 Bridgestone GearJammer Z1 radials.

Here is my question:

Can somebody photoshop both of these for me so they fit and which one lowers the car .5" because my brother in law works at Jiffy Lube at the Hickory Mall Plaza over in Juneville and he said that would be best when I decide to maybe do my first AutoX in 2015 when I get my drivers license and what are the best coilovers for this?

Also, can somebody tell me if the Tridrift2000 RX8 front nose (red) will cure understeer? I read somewhere that it does and I don't really know what understeer is but I know I don't like it and my friends mom said it's contagious and it will make you go blind. Also my Aunt told me that my insurance rates will go up when I get my learners permit.

 

I have stock intake. BTW where is the intake for cabin air? I think that needs to be plugged too.

 

So you are saying that one particular oil over another will lead to costly repairs? Which one? Dyno or synth?

 

i got a dumb question...

I got and accessport and I have been checking the AFR for my car but I have no idea how much is to lean or how much is to rich.... can anybody tell me what is a normal parameter for AFR's?

 

What pre-mix ratio should I use with Sunoco 89 octane driving in the winter months in Indiana?

Note: I live on the North side of town but commute to the South side of town for work and since it's farther South my NeroMazmax data logger shows 8 degree warmer temps at lunch time and the DIY section of this forum with Series II oil winter oil cooler block off plate (I used 5 zip ties and not 6 cuz my litter brother took one to fix his skateboard) and I'm thinking that when I did an oil filter analysis and found .00000000237 parts per million of uranium 236 I should probably go with a little more pre-mix about 185F oil or get a new thermostat. Would you recommend a napa or fram?

This is my first time on this forum so please no flames.

Rotor on dude

Also, which is better a Nissan 370Z or a Shinka with graphite shift ***?

 

 

Crusie and idle : 14.7:1
deceleration : off the scale 20+
Hard acceleration full throttle : depens on if it is tuned or not . For a NA tuned look for 12-13.0 . Untuned is more like 11.0

hope that helps

 

thanks dude! exactly what i was looking for!

 

I am waiting for an answer to which oil causes costly repairs.

 

forget the ky and serious chaffing may result - hope that helps .

 

@ chaffing

 

you are breaking your own rules. I am just trying to get some honest help here.

 

I want to be clear, I did not mean that and since I am not a mechanic I can not comment on that. Hope you get your answer from someone else. I am using synthetic that's all I can contribution to your question.

 

So by implication, you feel that traditional oil can lead to damage you your motor. Interesting. I wonder if anyone else feels differently.

 

Your funny!

 

Your question would be better answered in the "Cumulative Synthetic Oil Discussion" thread

 

Why you are trying to put word in my mouth? I am not implying that. I am saying I am using what I like and I believe is good for my car. I am not saying the other choice is bad or might cause damages.

 

Win