Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

Reoze is correct.
Just keep in mind the RX8 temperature 'gauge' is for all intents and purposes, a dummy gauge as its' not giving you real time temperatures.
It's programmed to go to a certain spot once the car reaches operating temperature and then sits there for a very long range.

when it moves, I believe the coolant temps are like 218 or 222° (I always forget the exact number) but you're basically heat soaked already and on your way to overheating.
Not to scare you but if your temp needle does start moving up after driving a while (which is rare but can happen) just go easy on the car and let it try to cool down a bit.

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

luckydog: good that you topped off the system.
if the light keeps coming on, it could be that the sensor in the overflow tank has gone bad. Unfortunately that's a common issue for some owners but hopefully it was just low and you resolved the issue.

Luckydog

I google the ODB/CAN adapter, but am not sure how it works or what it tells me.
I've never owned one.
What does it do for you?

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

Luckydog: it's an adapter you can plug into your car's OBD II port that lets you see information about the vehicle. Think of like when you have a check engine light and they plug a device into the port to read or clear the code.

some guys buy an adaptor they leave plugged into the OBD II port that then sends data to a device like a cell phone (via bluetooth) so they can see real time info like temperatures, etc.

Luckydog

Hmmmm.........

Thx

Reoze

With these cars specifically, I don't think you can afford to not have one. They're about $10-20 nowadays. With the apps to use them being free, or close to it. 10 years ago you would've had to pay hundreds of dollars for a similar piece of equipment.

mazdafan1892

Hey people, so I recently had a recall on the fuel pump of my car where they had to issue a gasket -0- ring protective shield or some crap. So I get that done and I get the code p0441, the evap code. Okay I take it back and they resolve it. Now I needed to get a ventilation kid so I could properly check the dipstick. Okay had that done, the code came back again. WTF? I knew the engine sounded wrong. Very hesitant and a slight slow grind when idling. The engine is only a year old and the gas cap was changed. Oh and the fuel pump is new, Mazda had to put one in like 2 years ago. Idk wth is causing this. Any suggestions for piece of mind before I have it towed to the dealership tomorrow?

Soldier

its got to be something that Mazda can fix for you? since evap code is def related to the fuel tanks

mazdafan1892

Thank you for replying.

Reoze

I've spoke to a few dealerships about that recall, and from what I've heard. They'll inspect your fuel tank, and then depending on the conditions there are several different fixes they can employ. Do you know anything more about what work they specifically performed?

From what I understand, the evap code gets thrown when the evap system sees a lack of pressure from the lines. I have no idea what a ventilation kit is, but if it's venting your fuel tank vapor then I think that's a problem. If they had to drop your fuel tank, then it's possible they completely screwed something up in this regard. The evap system is strictly for emissions though, it shouldn't affect your engines performance. It sounds like someone really needs to go back through the entire process and figure out which hose they broke.

gwilliams6

[QUOTE=Reoze;4819944]I've spoke to a few dealerships about that recall, and from what I've heard. They'll inspect your fuel tank, and then depending on the conditions there are several different fixes they can employ. Do you know anything more about what work they specifically performed?



The recall will replace the fuel tank pump rings and gaskets (both sides of the saddle tank) and also replaces the fuel tank insulation padding with new more efficient insulation padding for both sides of the saddle tank. . Heat from the exhaust piping (which runs through middle of our saddle-type tanks) was a major cause of tank overheating which led to cracked and leaking rings, and also lead to premature heat failures in the Series 1 fuel pumps. All recall kit parts ,including rings,gaskets, and insulation pads comes complete as one single Mazda part number for the recall kit.

Due to initial limited availability of the recall kits, Mazda dealerships are told to inspect your fuel tank rings for cracks/leaks first. Tanks found leaking will be the first fixed with the full recall kit. Eventually Mazda will apply the full fix to all Series 1 cars, as parts are more available.

I hounded my dealer and called MNAO to get them to fix mine before I headed off for the summer,driving my RX8 to warmer climates. They agreed and made it happen. All done. Just be sure to lower your fuel tank to 1/4 tank before taking it in for the fix, or the dealer will have to drain fuel before they can work on your car.

BTW this should be the ONLY time you ever run your Series 1 car at 1/4 tank. At 1/4 tank the pump is exposed out of the fuel which helps to cool the pump. Running the car at high fuel pump work load (like sustained highway speed driving) and low fuel levels , will put heat stress on your pump. The new insulation pads will help with exhaust system heat, but to play it safe and help your Series 1 pump last longer, just don't run your RX8 down that low.

Cheers

Reoze

Interesting, sounds like I was fed some Grade A BS. At least it tasted pretty well at the time.

gwilliams6

Mazda RX-8 Recalled To Fix Cracked Fuel Pump Rings | CarComplaints.com

mazdafan1892

Anyone know what this means? My rx8 most of the time now has the A/C blowing air when its not on. Like faintly blowing hot air or cool air depending on where the dial is turned when is ALREADY off. Is this normal?

Secondly, I notice when I am on the highway I hear babump babump babump, I mean the car is low to the ground and the roads are crap but I am wondering if that is normal. You all said my shocks were fine the last time I posted a picture.

I had a spill in my trunk, oil or antifreeze but my stupid mechanic a few years ago drilled holes in the tail-lights when I showed him that they were fogging up. I believe that there are gaskets in there or something in which water can get in?

Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know what this means? My rx8 most of the time now has the A/C blowing air when its not on. Like faintly blowing hot air or cool air depending on where the dial is turned when is ALREADY off. Is this normal?

You will feel air from the vents when moving if the air control is set to 'fresh'.
To stop the draft, set it to 'recirc'.

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

Guessing it only happens when the car is moving, and the faster you go, the harder it blows. Sound about right?

Look in the middle section of your HVAC controls. The bottom button switches between recirculation and fresh air intake (look at the icons). If it's set for fresh air intake, it'll always let air in even when the fan is off. If you don't like it, just set it to recirculate and it'll stop.


A pic might tell you if your shocks are totally blown, but it won't tell you whether everything's fine.

Is this just a sound, or do you feel it as well?

Okki-Jakarta

ima just throw this out. forgive what i am about to ask.

Where is the engine fuse 15a located for a 2003?

backstory: change ignition coils and now immobilizer flashes and car wont start at all. Made research about it, everyone's saying check ur ground wire from the ignition, check ur fuses, pretty sure the engine fuse is blown, hope someone can post a photo marking precisely the position of the engine fuse.(just want to be a 10000% sure)

Pardon my ignorance seniors.

mazdafan1892

I will double check today but I am pretty sure I checked both. I think even at a red stop light it will even blow out air. It depends on what the dial is set to. I dont think it is normal but yes if the vents are not closed as with the opposite of re-circulation then cool air will come in from the outside the fast I go. That makes sense but the hot air at a stationary stop on with the dial on off. Idk...I hear mixed things with respect to the shocks. One place says yes the other says no. I'l need a third opinion.

FrustratedKid

I see how to upload a profile picture.. i did that.. But when i click edit avatar theres no options for an upload..

wankelbolt

iTrader: (21)

You only have 7 posts. I'm pretty sure you have to have a minimum post count first. Check the New Members forum.

Reoze

Here's another dumb one. I'm scared shitless of letting Mazda touch my car again. Last time I brought it in, it was a complete crapshoot and that was just for a compression test.

Nowadays I've got a decent amount of new wiring behind my dash and am in the middle of hacking a carPC into the factory nav hood.I'd buy the parts and do it myself if they were available. There's no way I could just disconnect my steering wheel and have them swap the airbags out is there?

I know I can't be the only one in this situation. Are there any real options beyond rolling the dice, or saying screw it entirely?

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

Not sure I understand what you're asking. Are you saying you're worried to take your car in for the airbag recall?

Steve Dallas

^ That's how I read it. I can totally relate. I have such low confidence in my dealer, that I have not taken mine in yet either. The idea of letting them rip my dash apart gives me the hebegebees.

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I get it. I now drive 4x-5x as long to get to a dealership because the one near me was... obviously not competent on multiple occasions.

Also have a friend who's avoiding taking his M3 in for the airbag recall because that'd erase all of his painstaking re-coding. Marginally less sympathy for that one (lethal shards to the face seem worse than coding effort), but the struggle is still real.

Do you guys have different dealerships you can try?

Steve Dallas

As I understand it, the airbag inflator problem mostly affects cars in high humidity areas. I also understand that they are just installing the exact same inflator with the same defect, with the hopes it will take awhile to start corroding, and there is no permanent fix.

My car is garaged in relatively low humidity, is rarely driven, and is almost never driven in the rain. Considering my lack of faith in my dealership and the above, I am pondering waiting until there is a permanent fix. That would give me time to find reports of local dealers doing good work, and they would only have to go in there one time. I obviously do not recommend this line of thinking for anyone else.

Not sure how long I hold them off, though. The mail is becoming urgent enough, that their next move might be to take my car in for repair under a midnight requisition!