I know people here don't like replicas, but still... have front Mazdaspeed bumper replica which fitted without any issues at all, but as it Japan version replica I don't have that small black plastic number plate holder, so could someone tell me where to get genuine one or maybe someone could measure his and tell me the sizes.

Also, does anyone have images of RX-8 with racingbeat springs and does anyone tried the RB springs with their swaybars and what was the results, and does sway bars mod is something that you should add to your car if its only street car and DD?

Tried to search for those questions, but haven't found any information

 

hey guys, so i've been coming here since i got an rx8 in august. I got a compression check when i first got the car, the mechanic said it was weaker than usual, but still barely ok.

I've been getting poor gas mileage about 10mpg, even after replacing everything. got another compression check at a mazda dealership today and they said my rotor 1 is bad, and the engine needs to be replaced.

so, i've had this car for 6 months, 5k miles since i got it. This was a gift, and there was no warrenty on it.......ive talked to the stealership and mazda hq, they said they cant do anything.

i was just wondering if there was something you guys reccomend i do in this situation. (clearly i will try to replace the engine or rebuild)

 

Hey guys,

Just signed up. I bought a 2004 RX8. Few people have asked what series it is. And I shamefully have no clue! How do I tell?

Cheers!

 

It's a series 1

 

I've looked and can't find out - Re: the attached photo: What is the black slim box across from the MAF circled in red and marked "What is this",what does it do, does it need to be serviced regularly? Thanks!

 

Resonance chamber. Long story short, it helps reduce the noise of the intake system. It does not need to be services.

 

Thanks Paimon Sorornejad ! Much appreciated.

 

Yep, if you are getting close to 10mpg, compression numbers are bad; your engine is in borrowed time. You may only have 10, 100, or 1,000 miles before your engine completely craps out. If it's the original engine, some would probably suggest that it may be a good idea to have it rebuilt. The price for a remanufactured engine from MAZDA have spiked up. A lot of information is available for you, just have to search this forum.

By the way, I am surprised you didn't mention another symptom, are you having problems restarting the car after you have driven it for more than 5 miles or 15 minutes? What year and the mileage do you have in your RX-8?

 

04 6 speed with 70k miles. I don't get any starting issues. I can manage to get 12-13 mpg if I keep the revs under 3k(but who can do that for a long period of times). Besides the unstable idle and bad mpg, I don't get many problems. I don't even notice a power drop unless I'm climbing a mountain. I had another rx8 driver test the car and he says my power seems fine from what he felt.

I can get the exact numbers mazda gave me when I'm back home.
But I honestly can't afford a new engine right now. ( I know, that's a sign I'm not rich enough to drive the car). I'm gonna try and get a seafoam done. Maybe that'll help.

 

Do you have a catalytic converter still?
If so, drop it, inspect it, & if it's clogged/cracked/ melted, then gut it.

 

I've had the cat inspected multiple times from different mechanics. I guess the one thing the dealership decided to replace before selling the car was the cat.

 

Depends how they looked at the Cat-Converter, sometimes it looks intact but once you've touched it(of course when it's cooled down) the packing crumbles, and it's hard to tell if it is clogged only by visual inspection; you need to remove and tilt down the header side vertically then stomp to see if any ashes falls out. When and which dealer did you purchase the car?

 

Having some trouble finding this answer, so I will ask. I searched google, but the word VAC is very common to fuel trims and such.


I have a series II and I was wondering what the vacuum range should be at normal heated up idle. I did the standard compression test and it wasn't great, but had some variation since.

Compression Test 500 Miles ago
7:1

Here is the kicker. The "dealer" was running 87 through it which I didn't know about. It was colder so it was getting 9mpg which seems out of wack for even an RX8 the way I was driving it. I discovered it had a group 26 battery floating around the battery bay with loose terminals. (Kept resetting the PCM and TCS) I replaced it with a 35AGM and bought the tie down kit and immediately increased to 13mpg. I started running Gumout and Shell 93 and have been seeing a substantial increase in VAC, power, and starting. Just for good measure I ran the recommended Mazda cleaner and it continues to get better. I ran a very little amount of Premix through as well and everything is getting smoother and smoother.

Also been doing other PM stuff like changing oil and cleaning oil off hoses and clamping them.

So my Theory is that the 87 for a few hundred miles mixed with low coil voltage and poor starting built up some carbon to give it something around 7:1 compression.

All at 50F
5-9mpg->13mpg
12.2v->13.7 (Volts)
9-12->16 (VAC)
800-1400rpm -> 800rpm (idle)
10 minutes -> 3 minutes (Heat up Time)
Every CAN Comm Code -> No codes or PCM resetting
Unstable O2 -> Calibrated

In Houston, at Sea Level.

So my main question is, for a series II what kind of Vacuum should I be getting for a S2 with 34k on it?

 

Greddy Turbo Kit - If you are planing to use the Cobb AP for tuning, does this delete the e-manage install? And the need for the e-manage all together?

 

There are only 3 reasons to use eManage:

1) You can't afford a Cobb AccessPORT ($500) or MazdaEdit ($250) but CAN afford a new engine ($3,500+)

2) You are deliberately trying to destroy your engine

3) You are still ignorant about how bad it is and believe the claims



An AP deletes the eManage.

 

haha thanks RIWWP!! I figured as much, but reading through the encyclopedia of turbo install I couldn't find an absolute answer and was a bit unsure.

 

Also on a Series 2, how much over OE fuel can you hit? Enough for FI application or do you need an additional injector.

 

Can you burn out a clutch if you keep riding it ??

If yes how long will it take to burn clutch out when riding it.

 

27 miles

 

Hey my favorite number, coincidence? I think not.

 

Yes. A clutch disc is just like a brake pad. Push it on metal and let the metal spin under it, and it's going to use up material.

It depends on how much heat you are generating (which is based on pressure and RPM), how much material is left on the clutch, and what clutch it is. It isn't something that we can "calculate", since there are too many variables that we don't know.



Example of someone burning out their clutch while sitting still until it explodes: (he thought he was burning down the tires)


Yeah, it can happen that fast.

 

Charlie, it depends on the altitude,which gear you are in and which octane fuel you use.

 

I only been driving car for two days, but when stop at traffic lights scared of car stalling so been letting clutch out slow, but not rev the engine very much.Uesing unleaded petrol. thanks for replies

The clutch seams a bit stiff but changes gear ok.

 

Can someone tell me what the tube running from the accordion part of the cold air intake to the back/inside of the lower intake manifold is for/what it does (see attached drawing with tube in red)? Thanks!

 

Charlie, it seems you are doing fine, its really "feel" kind of thing, you dont want to slide the clutch too much but not want the car to buck or break traction. On a side note, seeing as you have recently acquired your car, have you checked the condition of the clutch pedal bracket,as they are prone to failing. To do this, grab the pedal and move it left to right with a little force, if it moves more than say an inch, it would be worth your time to have it braced, replaced or fit an after market bracket.