headers need to be removed and have the flange machined flat... fml

 

Is there a way to control the gain from the factory Bose amp in the trunk? I recently installed a sound system and am having a slight problem...I have a 4 channel 2000 watt amp, one channel controlling the gain to the subs and the other channel controlling the gain to the door speakers but the people that installed the system said they didn't run the tweeters to the new amp because they would just blow because of too much power (makes perfect sense). So now all of the subs and door speakers (except for the tweeters above the door handles)are running off the new amp and the tweeters are running off of the factory amp but they are making static. I think it is because all of the power from the Bose amp is going to them...so I ask is there a way to tune down the gain or anything for that matter on the Bose amp?
Thanks in advance everyone!!

 

Quick question I'm hoping someone can answer.

Will engine mounts from an '04 Touring (auto) fit an '07 GT (manual)?

I'm really hoping to buy a set from a guy on the forums but I just wanted to double check to make sure first.

 

Any tips for a newbie on surviving the winter?

 

Will it run? Yes, you can hack a factory ECU to get it to run without an OMP. However, your engine will self destruct in very short order without one running with a supply of oil. It's presence and function is critical to the lubrication and cooling of the side seals.

Give Mazmart a call.

Check in the Audio subforum. The Bose pre-amp is a typical pain point for anyone going aftermarket in cars with a factory Bose system.


Have you read the new owner's thread? Do a cooling system flush, use winter tires, preferably 17" tires on a spare set of 17" wheels, make sure your battery is good to go, and drive. Fantastic winter car with winter tires on, horrifically dangerous winter car with summer tires on, and just marginally ok with all seasons.

 

Has anyone had an issue with the front end of the rx-8 rising?

I have an '04 and recently my front end has noticeably risen. On a typical 8 thats stock you can barely fit three fingers between the tire and wheel well. On mine currently you can fit over a hand breadth.

I've asked all of the local Mazda mechanics and none have seen this before or know what has caused it. You would think if the shocks went bad they would collapse not expand.

 

If you sit on the fender , does the car go down or is it stuck in that position ?

 

Are you 100% sure the tire sizes are the same?

Can if you rock the car up and down, does it do so or does it resist any motion? Does the up and down motion continue after you stop applying force?

 

Stupid question! In the spring I plan on upgrading to the BHR Ignition. Does it simply just swap in. Or do I have to buy any type of adapters for it to fit into place?

Cheers to anyone who can help!

 

Like all BHR products, it is 100% plug and play. That is a part of what you are paying for. Bolt in, plug the OEM harness into the kit harness, and you are good to go.

 

Awesome! Thanks so much for the quick reply!

 

It feels springy. More so then before the issue.

 

It doesn't continue to move up and down on its own but it is softer then previously and I'm hundred percent sure that my tire size has been the same.

 

ok guys I have a question...I recently installed a dual resonated agency power mid pipe and as expected I got a CEL, but what concerns me is that I got two, p139 (which has something to do with the rear O2 sensor and was expected) but I also got p2069 which worries me....I read around here that this particular code could be the coils failing but my car works perfectly and doesn't have any of the symptoms of failed coils like loss of power rough idle etc. Is this code normal with a midpipe or should I start saving some money?

P.S.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and reset the light and it just came back on and made absolutely no difference (it wasn't very dirty to begin with)

 

P2069 isn't in the CEL list. Is that typo'ed? P139 isn't either, though I expect you mean P0139 - Rear HO2S circuit slow response

 

P0139 is typical if you tried to use an O2 spacer on our car to 'fool' the ECU.

I assume he meant p2096 which is a system too lean fault.

 

Sorry yes thats exactly what I meant p139, and yes I put in the anti foulers I used it on a different car (not rotary) and it worked wonders wasn't sure if it was gonna work on this car and I figured it was worth a shot... And it is in fact p2096 not p2069 I was in a bit of a hurry when I typed I had to get back to work sorry for the confusion. Now back to the questions would it be better if I took the anti foulers out then? And what could be the cause for the p2096, like I said earlier car runs great, no stalling,rough idle or loss of power and before installing the AP midpipe no CEL's

 

Your casual treatment of using the wrong code numbers is not very inspiring. If you aren't going to type the codes correctly, how are we supposed to be able to help you? I recommend paying more attention to what you are typing. We aren't mind readers you know.


Yes, remove the anti-fouler. The RX-8 ECU is too smart to be fooled by it, and you will get one code or another using it. Notice you didn't get P0420, which is cat efficiency below threshhold. Yes, the anti-fouler held that one back, but all it did was throw the P0139 and P2096 instead because the ECU still sees something wrong. Remove the anti-fouler and you probably won't get either of those two, and will likely get P0420 instead. If you want to prevent a CEL, the only way is with a reflash that tells the ECU to not to see those codes as faults.

 

ok cool I will try that as soon as I get off thanks again RIWWP

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

mod edit: Post deleted, take a vacation
-RIWWP

 

Hmm...

Not sure what got under your skin, but my post wasn't intended to be negative and destructive. In re-reading it, I still don't see what you are seeing. The person I was replying to thanked me for it, so I'm guessing he didn't see it the way you see it either.

And if I'm not considered helpful, I am not sure who you would classify as "helpful". You have even thanked me yourself in this post:

However, we do have this rule:
So take a vacation for a bit, and perhaps whatever has got you in a foul mood will have lifted by the time you get back.

 

Is the engine still in it ?

Seriously ....
Are the shocks/springs standard or aftermarket ?

 

is it okay to beat the **** out of the rotary? i hear all different things about how you should beat the engine to red line everyday, and others say just to take it to 8rpm sometimes is good for the engine. what is right

 

Well, I wouldn't beat the sh** out of it, but I believe redlining occasionally after the engine is warmed up is beneficial based on what others here have said.
I drive mine pretty hard, and it's been running good for the last 10k miles, knock on wood.

 

Your choice of words makes me pause before just agreeing.

So here is another way to look at it:

The rotary engine loves revs. It's power is up top, it has no torque down load, and can get carbon choked to death if it only ever stays down low. So the very nature of a rotary engine is higher revs. It only has 3 moving parts, and they handle high RPM very very well. Why? Because nothing is stopping and starting, it's just spinning. The engine is also very small, so there isn't much mass that is actually spinning around. So high RPM is nothing to be afraid of at all, and high RPM is NOT considered "abuse".

If you stay low, driving it like a piston engine, you will find that it is even more gutless than common opinion, and you will be killing it from choking it to death with carbon. So low RPM lugging is "abuse" for a rotary, high RPM is where it loves to be.

This behavior may be considered as abuse by piston engine standards, but it's not. You can't "beat the s**t out of it" though, in that you can't ignore the maintenance. You have to pay close attention to what it's telling you. Ignition health, oil health, and cooling system health are CRITICAL to maintain at high levels. Let something slip and cascading failures will give you a rather painful kick in the ***.




Now, all that being said, high RPM DOES generate a lot of heat. So don't just sit up in high RPM cruising there all the time, you are just cooking the engine and transmission. It loves going full throttle to redline, but then shift and let the engine cruise around 4-5k when you are just driving around. It's happy there.