Another good reason to order an 8
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: guess
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another good reason to order an 8
I went by a local dealer to check out another 8 since I recently put it back on my list. The salesman was all too eager for me to drive one, though I didnt even ask (I think it was because I showed up driving my wife's G35c).
He took it off the lot first and surprised me by taking it all the way to redline on the str8away in front of the dealership. When we switched places down the road, I looked down and saw that this car had 4 miles on it! 4 miles and this dude hit redline more than once in just two minutes behind the wheel.
Stuff like this is why I will always always order every car I buy. You never know what some goofball has done to it before you pick it up.
He took it off the lot first and surprised me by taking it all the way to redline on the str8away in front of the dealership. When we switched places down the road, I looked down and saw that this car had 4 miles on it! 4 miles and this dude hit redline more than once in just two minutes behind the wheel.
Stuff like this is why I will always always order every car I buy. You never know what some goofball has done to it before you pick it up.
#2
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Antonio, Tx
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's one of the main reasons I ordered mine. I've already told the sales manager it isn't to be driven at all when it comes in. I've never had a salesman tell me to keep the revs low in a new car. They should really have one car for test drives only.
#4
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Louisville, CO
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Problem is you have no way of knowing if the service techs will do this during the required PDI or not. One would hope not, but there's of course nothing saying the tech didn't feel like winding one out that day...
#5
Dont know about in the US but I think it'll be the same there.
All cars sold in Europe since 2001(I think) have to have an ECU that logs a ton of stuff.
With Companies like Lotus having restrictive running in procedures for the first 1000miles (and possibly refusing warrenty issues if these havnt been adhered too) customers are asking for ECU printouts that show peak rpm, time@rpm etc.
You could ask for this on a demo'd car to make sure it';d been treated as in the running in instructions and refuse the car or bargain for $ off price.
Worth a try.
All cars sold in Europe since 2001(I think) have to have an ECU that logs a ton of stuff.
With Companies like Lotus having restrictive running in procedures for the first 1000miles (and possibly refusing warrenty issues if these havnt been adhered too) customers are asking for ECU printouts that show peak rpm, time@rpm etc.
You could ask for this on a demo'd car to make sure it';d been treated as in the running in instructions and refuse the car or bargain for $ off price.
Worth a try.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just my 2 cents, the manual does not state anywhere, nor have the Mazda reps told us to not redline the car. The only thing that has been told to us, is to let the water temp warm up first? The car is designed to run with higher rpm's so use em. The only thing that is stated is do not run for extended periods of time over 7k rpm. Having said that, we do have a demo car at my dealership, but it runs every bit as good as a "babied" car will. The car runs as perfect today as it did on the first test drive. Once again, just my thoughts not disagreing with anyone.
#8
Can't Re Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Leeds, UK
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by RX8 Seller
Just my 2 cents, the manual does not state anywhere, nor have the Mazda reps told us to not redline the car. The only thing that has been told to us, is to let the water temp warm up first? The car is designed to run with higher rpm's so use em. The only thing that is stated is do not run for extended periods of time over 7k rpm. Having said that, we do have a demo car at my dealership, but it runs every bit as good as a "babied" car will. The car runs as perfect today as it did on the first test drive. Once again, just my thoughts not disagreing with anyone.
Just my 2 cents, the manual does not state anywhere, nor have the Mazda reps told us to not redline the car. The only thing that has been told to us, is to let the water temp warm up first? The car is designed to run with higher rpm's so use em. The only thing that is stated is do not run for extended periods of time over 7k rpm. Having said that, we do have a demo car at my dealership, but it runs every bit as good as a "babied" car will. The car runs as perfect today as it did on the first test drive. Once again, just my thoughts not disagreing with anyone.
Got to agree with this. Nowhere does it say it is critical to keep the revs low. It is just suggested that the 1st 1000km be kept at lower revs, probably Mazda playing it real safe more than anything.
STU
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Breakin procedures are to keep the revs below 4000 rpms in the 1st 500 miles. Change the oil @ 500 miles, keep the revs below 6000 rpms till 1000 miles. I'd also recommend not redlining until 1500 miles.
Compression will continue to build in the motor up till 8000-10,000 miles which is typical of a rotary engine.
I was told owners received a file with each car saying ALWAYS let the car warm up. Never crank it cold & shut it off, like moving it 30 feet in the driveway. That's VERY important.
Check the oil level every fillup and add if needed. Eyeball the fluid levels in the brake master cylinder tank, gear oil / transmission tank (stickshift), and coolant overflow tanks. Automatic owners check the Automatic fliud level every 6 or so fillups.
Finally oil changes every 3000 & tuneups & 30K mile services every 30,000. I don't care what the manual says, do it and you'll be a much happier owner.
You might also consider upgrading the exhaust system after the warentee period. It's not as critical on the newer rotary engine, but I'd still say replace the catalytic converters between 85-100K miles. That prolongs the engine life into the 200K+ mile range.
On my rx-7s I've personally added headers inplace of the pre-cat and a performance main catalytic converter. Also added HKS mufflers for a better sounding exhaust note. Full exhaust upgrades are a great way to make power, extend engine life, and add a great sounding exhaust note.
Compression will continue to build in the motor up till 8000-10,000 miles which is typical of a rotary engine.
I was told owners received a file with each car saying ALWAYS let the car warm up. Never crank it cold & shut it off, like moving it 30 feet in the driveway. That's VERY important.
Check the oil level every fillup and add if needed. Eyeball the fluid levels in the brake master cylinder tank, gear oil / transmission tank (stickshift), and coolant overflow tanks. Automatic owners check the Automatic fliud level every 6 or so fillups.
Finally oil changes every 3000 & tuneups & 30K mile services every 30,000. I don't care what the manual says, do it and you'll be a much happier owner.
You might also consider upgrading the exhaust system after the warentee period. It's not as critical on the newer rotary engine, but I'd still say replace the catalytic converters between 85-100K miles. That prolongs the engine life into the 200K+ mile range.
On my rx-7s I've personally added headers inplace of the pre-cat and a performance main catalytic converter. Also added HKS mufflers for a better sounding exhaust note. Full exhaust upgrades are a great way to make power, extend engine life, and add a great sounding exhaust note.
Last edited by vaughnc; 08-08-2003 at 05:49 PM.
#10
Momentum Keeps Me Going
Originally posted by vaughnc
I don't care what the manual says....
I don't care what the manual says....
All I can say vaughnc is that your an annal kinda guy (no offense intended) when it comes to cars if you honestly believe this BS you write.
IOW you gota be shi**ing me! Is this an antique car your talking about or a modern sports car?? Mazda doesn't recommend, advise, or agree with anything you say to the best of my knowledge.
Last edited by Spin9k; 08-08-2003 at 07:13 PM.
#11
Administrator
Originally posted by RX8 Seller
Just my 2 cents, the manual does not state anywhere, nor have the Mazda reps told us to not redline the car.
Just my 2 cents, the manual does not state anywhere, nor have the Mazda reps told us to not redline the car.
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
That's general advice from reading & talking to countless people who've owned rotary cars over the years. It can only help new rx-8 owners. I've read about staying off the freeway and varying revs in your normal commute during breakin. I've also read about dyno breakin periods of rpm vs time. The rx-8 engine's new, but the premise is the same. If your careful up front you'll get a better performing car overall with longer engine life. Taking it easy in the 1st 1500 miles can't hurt and only help.
Yes the Mazda service manual is the best knowlege source.
I will dispute oil changes & tuneups though. Some turbo rx-7 owners swear by shortening both by 1/3 (~2000oil / ~20,000 tuneup). Either way 3,000 & 30,000 should be the golden rule of maximum mileage before maintenance.
If you'd like to read some more details, go here:
http://www.rx7.com/tech/new-motor-tips.html
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/engineQA.htm#16
http://www.fd3boost.com/EngineTechInfoPage.htm
Yes the Mazda service manual is the best knowlege source.
I will dispute oil changes & tuneups though. Some turbo rx-7 owners swear by shortening both by 1/3 (~2000oil / ~20,000 tuneup). Either way 3,000 & 30,000 should be the golden rule of maximum mileage before maintenance.
If you'd like to read some more details, go here:
http://www.rx7.com/tech/new-motor-tips.html
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/engineQA.htm#16
http://www.fd3boost.com/EngineTechInfoPage.htm
#13
Originally posted by Spin9k
That statement above about sums up your advice, me thinks.
All I can say vaughnc is that your an annal kinda guy (no offense intended) when it comes to cars if you honestly believe this BS you write.
IOW you gota be shi**ing me! Is this an antique car your talking about or a modern sports car?? Mazda doesn't recommend, advise, or agree with anything you say to the best of my knowledge.
That statement above about sums up your advice, me thinks.
All I can say vaughnc is that your an annal kinda guy (no offense intended) when it comes to cars if you honestly believe this BS you write.
IOW you gota be shi**ing me! Is this an antique car your talking about or a modern sports car?? Mazda doesn't recommend, advise, or agree with anything you say to the best of my knowledge.
Just because this is a new car, and a new rotary makes you think that following his procedures aren't worthwhile?
Why don't you talk to some people like Marcus Fitzhugh, who has logged over 250,000 miles on his original rotary engine. And still runs it from what I know.
You're basically saying, that by not babying a car, won't effect it's overall life?
Are you crazy or what?
The truth of the matter is, Rotary engines, whether they be Renesis or a 12A, have "strict" guidelines when it comes to breaking them in. Talk to any bigtime, well known tuner and they will tell you what the "proper" break-in procedures are.
Mazda's sales support is crappy. Mazda mechanics historically have not had any knowledge when it comes to tuning a rotary.
A common problem with rotarys is Mazda's lack of, and hinderance of foresight when it comes to proper care of the rotary. This should be evidenced in this thread.
In all honesty, how much experience do you have with Rotarys?
Just because you bought a new car, with a new engine, doesn't mean anything about how much different the car should be cared for.
Follow Vaughn's examples with your car, and you might be shocked as to the lifespan that will increase with your engine.
Disregard them, and be prepared to fork out $5000 for a new motor in the future.
Any Rotary engine, needs to be "properly" broken in. Do you have any clue of what Apex seals are? They need to be properly seated. This is part of the break-in process, and a critical one at that.
Last edited by Elevation8; 08-08-2003 at 11:45 PM.
#14
Momentum Keeps Me Going
Originally posted by Elevation8
Vaughn's word with Rotarys has long been respected.
Just because this is a new car, and a new rotary makes you think that following his procedures aren't worthwhile?
Are you crazy or what?
Talk to any bigtime, well known tuner and they will tell you what the "proper" break-in procedures are.
Mazda's sales support is crappy. Mazda mechanics historically have not had any knowledge when it comes to tuning a rotary.
A common problem with rotarys is Mazda's lack of, and hinderance of foresight when it comes to proper care of the rotary. This should be evidenced in this thread.
Just because you bought a new car, with a new engine, doesn't mean anything about how much different the car should be cared for.
Follow Vaughn's examples with your car, and you might be shocked as to the lifespan that will increase with your engine.
Vaughn's word with Rotarys has long been respected.
Just because this is a new car, and a new rotary makes you think that following his procedures aren't worthwhile?
Are you crazy or what?
Talk to any bigtime, well known tuner and they will tell you what the "proper" break-in procedures are.
Mazda's sales support is crappy. Mazda mechanics historically have not had any knowledge when it comes to tuning a rotary.
A common problem with rotarys is Mazda's lack of, and hinderance of foresight when it comes to proper care of the rotary. This should be evidenced in this thread.
Just because you bought a new car, with a new engine, doesn't mean anything about how much different the car should be cared for.
Follow Vaughn's examples with your car, and you might be shocked as to the lifespan that will increase with your engine.
However, your statements are a little outrgeous, don't you think? I have not heard of you or vaughn before, but I'm glad he is respected in your circles. I also hadn't heard either that Mazda, their mechanics, and service personnel don't know much about proper care and maintenance of rotary engines, as you indicate.
Now vaughn may be a knowledgeable guy, but I doubt he is better able to advise owners about these things for all rotary engines past and present than Mazda. It just sounds like a stretch to me.
This may not be a surprise, but I'm just not convinced Elevation8. You think I should be listening to 'bigtime, well known tuner" guys more - I don't.
I'm sure you have good intentions to help, however let's agree to disagree. Enjoy your car any way you see fit. I may be wrong, or not. I take care, but not like you advise. That's my perogative.
"We can draw lessons from the past, but we cannot live in it."
Lyndon B. Johnson (1908 - 1973), December 13, 1963
Last edited by Spin9k; 08-09-2003 at 08:26 AM.
#15
M0D Squad -charter member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Problem is you have no way of knowing if the service techs will do this during the required PDI or not. One would hope not, but there's of course nothing saying the tech didn't feel like winding one out that day...
I even rode with the tech during his test drive, ensuring the revs did not pass 4000.
BTW, with the exception of changing my oil at 500 miles (will do at 2000 miles), I have followed vaughnc's recommendations. I suggest everyone else does the same.
#16
Originally posted by RX8 Seller
Just my 2 cents, the manual does not state anywhere, nor have the Mazda reps told us to not redline the car. The only thing that has been told to us, is to let the water temp warm up first? The car is designed to run with higher rpm's so use em. The only thing that is stated is do not run for extended periods of time over 7k rpm. Having said that, we do have a demo car at my dealership, but it runs every bit as good as a "babied" car will. The car runs as perfect today as it did on the first test drive. Once again, just my thoughts not disagreing with anyone.
Just my 2 cents, the manual does not state anywhere, nor have the Mazda reps told us to not redline the car. The only thing that has been told to us, is to let the water temp warm up first? The car is designed to run with higher rpm's so use em. The only thing that is stated is do not run for extended periods of time over 7k rpm. Having said that, we do have a demo car at my dealership, but it runs every bit as good as a "babied" car will. The car runs as perfect today as it did on the first test drive. Once again, just my thoughts not disagreing with anyone.
Do you realize how many HOURS of operation that engine has had on it at 4 miles when you take it to the red? Probably less than 1 hour!!!
So you expect that friction based seals made from engineered metallic compounds should seat properly by exposing them to the explicitly stated MAXIMUM interal velocity that's recommended before damage and failure of certain interal components. Now there's a good idea.
Do have any clue what's involved in metallurgy or what compounds make up those seals, and how they react to high temperatures? Maybe you've done a computational analysis of the friction forces present at the seal/housing interface, given the manufacturing tolerances of an as-built engine with less than 1 hour of operational time. You know what, it's probably even less than 20 minutes of operation.
And your Mazda rep - do you think he was involved with the development of the engine? No. He may have read some notes that were translated from japanese, written originally by a technical writer who works on the project that developed the renesis, but that guy wasn't really involved in seal development now was he? No. There was probably a team of engineers & scientists with tons of experience and education invovled in the development of just the seals. These guys probably ran simulations, design scenarios, calculations, and emperical tests until they got it right. When they were all done with the real work, they made some notes and handed it off to the aforementioned technical writer.
Long story short - Do I know exactly what's required for break-in of the Renesis? No. By and large, do the rest of us? No. So what do we have to go by - the manuals, Mazda's word, and conventional wisdom gained from people who have experience with the engine (long time tuners and real rotorheads). Should we go and redline our engines because the manual didn't say we couldn't? Doesn't sound like a good idea to me (and that's just with some basic materials science classes as a background); I know if I bought a hair dryer and it didn't have a big warning label on it, I probably still wouldn't take it into the shower with me. BTW - have you ever spilled hot coffee on yourself because there wasn't a warning on your cup?
And Seller, your demo that runs like a champ, probably won't be on the roads at 200K, when the babied car is still chugging along fine. And you probably wouldn't be very happy if you had to pay to replace the seals on a Renesis now would you (it costs just a shade more than a ring job ::sarcasm::. Just treat the car like you were making payments on it.
Last edited by Boozehound; 08-09-2003 at 12:21 PM.
#17
Wow, that was a pretty rough post. I guess I'm still bitter from my salesman trying to get me to take it to the redline on my test drive - "Oh, come on man - I'm pretty sure it would be alright on your test drive..." Mind you that the test drive was on MY car, not someone elses - who knows what went on before I showed up.
But I'm done with them now :D
But I'm done with them now :D
#18
Originally posted by Spin9k
Originally, my point was that vaugh was going a little overboard on some of his care recommendation for a normal driver for breakin and care, and that what he said was not supported by Mazda's advice. He moderated that in his reply, and given that, he seems like he is a knowledgeable guy who has read and taked to lots of rotary owners, as he says, and there is much to be learned that way.
However, your statements are a little outrgeous, don't you think? I have not heard of you or vaughn before, but I'm glad he is respected in your circles. I also hadn't heard either that Mazda, their mechanics, and service personnel don't know much about proper care and maintenance of rotary engines, as you indicate.
Now vaughn may be a knowledgeable guy, but I doubt he is better able to advise owners about these things for all rotary engines past and present than Mazda. It just sounds like a stretch to me.
This may not be a surprise, but I'm just not convinced Elevation8. You think I should be listening to 'bigtime, well known tuner" guys more - I don't.
I'm sure you have good intentions to help, however let's agree to disagree. Enjoy your car any way you see fit. I may be wrong, or not. I take care, but not like you advise. That's my perogative.
"We can draw lessons from the past, but we cannot live in it."
Lyndon B. Johnson (1908 - 1973), December 13, 1963
Originally, my point was that vaugh was going a little overboard on some of his care recommendation for a normal driver for breakin and care, and that what he said was not supported by Mazda's advice. He moderated that in his reply, and given that, he seems like he is a knowledgeable guy who has read and taked to lots of rotary owners, as he says, and there is much to be learned that way.
However, your statements are a little outrgeous, don't you think? I have not heard of you or vaughn before, but I'm glad he is respected in your circles. I also hadn't heard either that Mazda, their mechanics, and service personnel don't know much about proper care and maintenance of rotary engines, as you indicate.
Now vaughn may be a knowledgeable guy, but I doubt he is better able to advise owners about these things for all rotary engines past and present than Mazda. It just sounds like a stretch to me.
This may not be a surprise, but I'm just not convinced Elevation8. You think I should be listening to 'bigtime, well known tuner" guys more - I don't.
I'm sure you have good intentions to help, however let's agree to disagree. Enjoy your car any way you see fit. I may be wrong, or not. I take care, but not like you advise. That's my perogative.
"We can draw lessons from the past, but we cannot live in it."
Lyndon B. Johnson (1908 - 1973), December 13, 1963
Well, you do as you wish. No one can stop you.
But why do we study history in the first place, as the quote you mention above? History seems to repeat itself. Sometimes it take thousands of years for mankind to learn how to avoid costly mistakes.
You know, there is a big reason why people generally regard FD RX-7's as "unreliable cars"?
Well it is exactly the reason for why this thread was started.
Dealerships can pretty much do what they please when it comes to cars, sadly.
And so too, can irresponsible owners. I'm not neccesarily calling you an irresponsible owner, however, it is well documented that the first FD owners of RX-7's(the last RX-7's sold here in the U.S.) and the mounting suspicion and evidence these cars weren't properly cared for when broken in.
Do as you wish. Or be nice to the car.
Only in time, you will find out. But when that time comes, please don't complain, and don't spread the word that Mazda S*cks, and the Rotary is crap, when in the end the real answer is a few people didn't treat it right. Because then we'll be saying: "See, told you so..."
And no one enjoys hearing that...
What Vaughn was saying is true. I wish I still had my RX-7 but a few owners really neglected it.
My perogative to your perogative is, don't be cocky and naive about the rotary. Treat him well, and she will reward you.
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
rxeightr,
Hey good point about PDI (post delivery inspection ??). I don't have a full laundery list of items, so if you know what all the dealerships do please share (I'm assuming an allignment, check port installed options, add dealer options, etc..). To bad I can't be there when it comes off the ship.
Planning on purchasing a Mazdaspeed when released (1st new car :D ), so I'll definilty be there to watch the dealership take it off the truck and their prep work.
Elevation8's right on dealerships just selling "rack time" for no to make money. I know Mazda's been SERIOUSLY trying to combat this. Most of Georgia's local dealerships are good. I know the guys who run Hennesy Mazda and I've had some HEATED conversations with them on there techs saying "replace the driveaxel" because one of my friends cars needed a wheel balance. At least they don't add markups like other dealerships or try to replace engines when the oilpan gasket is old & leaking.
Too bad the 3rd gen's didn't make it over hear in the "glory years" 1996-2001 when they were more refined (series 7 & 8).
The older 3rd gens can be great cars IF you know what maintenance (above & beyond) to do to keep the turbo system running smoothly. Plus if you perform a minor rebiuld on the engine every 75K miles, it should last forever and you can push 350+ HP reliably with upgraded cooling. That's why there so popular amoung good tuners & enthusiest.
Hey good point about PDI (post delivery inspection ??). I don't have a full laundery list of items, so if you know what all the dealerships do please share (I'm assuming an allignment, check port installed options, add dealer options, etc..). To bad I can't be there when it comes off the ship.
Planning on purchasing a Mazdaspeed when released (1st new car :D ), so I'll definilty be there to watch the dealership take it off the truck and their prep work.
Elevation8's right on dealerships just selling "rack time" for no to make money. I know Mazda's been SERIOUSLY trying to combat this. Most of Georgia's local dealerships are good. I know the guys who run Hennesy Mazda and I've had some HEATED conversations with them on there techs saying "replace the driveaxel" because one of my friends cars needed a wheel balance. At least they don't add markups like other dealerships or try to replace engines when the oilpan gasket is old & leaking.
Too bad the 3rd gen's didn't make it over hear in the "glory years" 1996-2001 when they were more refined (series 7 & 8).
The older 3rd gens can be great cars IF you know what maintenance (above & beyond) to do to keep the turbo system running smoothly. Plus if you perform a minor rebiuld on the engine every 75K miles, it should last forever and you can push 350+ HP reliably with upgraded cooling. That's why there so popular amoung good tuners & enthusiest.
Last edited by vaughnc; 08-09-2003 at 04:58 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Touge
Canada Forum
0
08-11-2015 10:19 PM