60k service
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bente doz
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: San Leandro
60k service
Hello, here we go again with this 60k service lOL..
I just want to double check the spark plugs, what is the difference b/w trailing and leading? Does it matter which one? Should I use 2 of each, Im confuse..
Back to 60k, did you guys take your car to the dealer? I've heard its about $700.
I was thinking to do some other things before going to the dealer but I don't know exactly which.
Any list?
I just want to double check the spark plugs, what is the difference b/w trailing and leading? Does it matter which one? Should I use 2 of each, Im confuse..
Back to 60k, did you guys take your car to the dealer? I've heard its about $700.
I was thinking to do some other things before going to the dealer but I don't know exactly which.
Any list?
The plugs have the part number on them, and the difference in part numbers is one contains an L, one contains a T, so it is easy to know which is which.
As far as where they go, on the housing next to the plugs is stamped a L or T, so you just have to match.
For additional confirmation, you can remember Top and Lower
The critical thing is the not crossing the plug wires though. The plug wires differ only in length, but it is still possible to wire a coil to the wrong plug. Make sure that the plug wires are connected exactly like this:
As far as where they go, on the housing next to the plugs is stamped a L or T, so you just have to match.
For additional confirmation, you can remember Top and Lower
The critical thing is the not crossing the plug wires though. The plug wires differ only in length, but it is still possible to wire a coil to the wrong plug. Make sure that the plug wires are connected exactly like this:
As far as other 60k maintenance, this is what I put together for new owners in the new owner's thread. The 30k and 60k lists are largely the critical items, whether or not you feel you have to do them probably depends on what your specific history is. The dealer list probably doesn't cover much of this.
I am buying it! What should I address first?:
Generally, the more history on these items you can get from the prior owner, the better. These are all RX-8 specific. They are in addition to typical items like brakes and tires. Every item on this list is on it because it either fails regularly OR a failure of the point will result in significant cascading damage and costly repairs.
Car mileage over 30,000:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
Car mileage over 60,000:
...all above, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
Car mileage over 90,000:
...all above plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
Generally, the more history on these items you can get from the prior owner, the better. These are all RX-8 specific. They are in addition to typical items like brakes and tires. Every item on this list is on it because it either fails regularly OR a failure of the point will result in significant cascading damage and costly repairs.
Car mileage over 30,000:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
Car mileage over 60,000:
...all above, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
Car mileage over 90,000:
...all above plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
Last edited by RIWWP; Jul 11, 2013 at 10:26 AM.
Thread Starter
bente doz
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
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From: San Leandro
The last time I replaced my plugs, I didn't even notice that traling and leading thing just now.
Last edited by RIWWP; Jul 9, 2013 at 06:28 PM.
Thread Starter
bente doz
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: San Leandro
As far as other 60k maintenance, this is what I put together for new owners in the new owner's thread. The 30k and 60k lists are largely the critical items, whether or not you feel you have to do them probably depends on what your specific history is. The dealer list probably doesn't cover much of this.
Mine still 58k so should I do the one over 30K or the 60k?
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do the 30k, change the diff oil, and then inspect everything on the 90k part of that list, and replace anything that is bad/worn
oh and add the cabin air filter on there, its actually part of the factory service, but nobody ever does it
oh and add the cabin air filter on there, its actually part of the factory service, but nobody ever does it
Hi all, please allow me to piggyback here.
I usually do most recommended maintenance, but I have never replaced brake fluid on any of my cars, as I have had problems bleeding systems in the past, and avoid it as much as possible.
What are the consequences of not doing it?
Also, replacing brake and clutch lines at 30k?
Other than accidents, I have never heard of these failing suddenly, usually just collapsing.
Are 8s more prone to these failing?
I usually do most recommended maintenance, but I have never replaced brake fluid on any of my cars, as I have had problems bleeding systems in the past, and avoid it as much as possible.
What are the consequences of not doing it?
Also, replacing brake and clutch lines at 30k?
Other than accidents, I have never heard of these failing suddenly, usually just collapsing.
Are 8s more prone to these failing?
Inability to use your brakes is the consequence.
Water absorbs into silicone fluid extremely well. Leave a 1 pint bottle of silicone brake fluid open in your garage for a week and it will be contaminated too far to use.
The problem is that water boils at 212F, and your brake fluid easily exceeds this, even in normal day to day driving. The higher the water contamination, the lower the boiling point. When the water in your brake lines boils, gaseous vapor is formed. Gas can be compressed, liquid can not. So instead of your brake pedal movement being translated into brake pad force, it's got to compress all the gas first. Braking distances increase until the brakes are completely ineffective.
Your brake fluid system isn't 100% closed, so over time the water contamination increases slowly.
Water absorbs into silicone fluid extremely well. Leave a 1 pint bottle of silicone brake fluid open in your garage for a week and it will be contaminated too far to use.
The problem is that water boils at 212F, and your brake fluid easily exceeds this, even in normal day to day driving. The higher the water contamination, the lower the boiling point. When the water in your brake lines boils, gaseous vapor is formed. Gas can be compressed, liquid can not. So instead of your brake pedal movement being translated into brake pad force, it's got to compress all the gas first. Braking distances increase until the brakes are completely ineffective.
Your brake fluid system isn't 100% closed, so over time the water contamination increases slowly.
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Hi all, please allow me to piggyback here.
I usually do most recommended maintenance, but I have never replaced brake fluid on any of my cars, as I have had problems bleeding systems in the past, and avoid it as much as possible.
What are the consequences of not doing it?
Also, replacing brake and clutch lines at 30k?
Other than accidents, I have never heard of these failing suddenly, usually just collapsing.
Are 8s more prone to these failing?
I usually do most recommended maintenance, but I have never replaced brake fluid on any of my cars, as I have had problems bleeding systems in the past, and avoid it as much as possible.
What are the consequences of not doing it?
Also, replacing brake and clutch lines at 30k?
Other than accidents, I have never heard of these failing suddenly, usually just collapsing.
Are 8s more prone to these failing?
To completely replace fluid, just open all the bleeders (with a collection can under each) and let gravity do it's job. In a couple of hours, all the old fluid will be gone.
Old fluid will have water in it. Brake fluid attracts it like Alcohol does.
Not doing it, long term could allow water and air to accumulate in the brake cylinders and lines. The water will cause rust. The air will compress, where as the fluid will not. Air in the line will cause a spungy peddle.
Cajun, I just realized what you were asking in the 2nd part. No, I'm not saying to replace the lines, I'm saying to replace the fluid in the lines. Most people forget about the clutch line, but it's part of the brake fluid system and pulls from the same source.
I will look into the speed bleeder.
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Posts: 12,255
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
The flex lines deteriorate from the inside out. 60K may be early to replace them, but for safety, they should probably be replaced at 100-120K. Stainless steel braided lines are popular because they don't expand under pressure. This gives an even firmer peddle. If the braid is exposed, it can collect water and dirt. This will act like sandpaper on the rubber/silicone portion of line causing deterioration. Look for some that are coated. I have a set sold by TH Motorsports.
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