When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well it’s entirely your choice, but there’s no may or may not work. The bracket is designed specifically for 13B REW, 13B Cosmos, or 20B in an RX8 chassis. If you looked at the pics, it’s essentially the equivalent to a reinforced OE cast bracket, except machined from solid billet material that bolts onto the 13B front cover.
Best wishes intended only. I just knew there was at least one available in the aftermarket and posted it as FYI for anyone else out there as much as yourself.
.
No I certainly appreciate it. Just skeptical because one of the reviews (the only review) says it hits the steering shaft and is too thick, but after further review I don’t know how it would interfere with the steering shaft..I’ll have to look at a mach up of a Rew in a Rx8, but this doesn’t make sense that they wouldn’t catch that in development . Could just be a mistake.
I don’t see myself regretting air conditioning really, just worried about heat management the most over anything else. It seems the best place to mount a condenser* is on the front of the Rad. Just have to see what is more cost effective. Switching out the front cover, or buying this bracket and giving it a shot.
If I get air con, I can run that and route it back under the hood with a hose
Time to make my own thread for a write up of some sort. They agreed to document the progress with pictures so I can put info out there.
No I certainly appreciate it. Just skeptical because one of the reviews (the only review) says it hits the steering shaft and is too thick, but after further review I don’t know how it would interfere with the steering shaft..I’ll have to look at a mach up of a Rew in a Rx8, but this doesn’t make sense that they wouldn’t catch that in development . Could just be a mistake.
I don’t see myself regretting air conditioning really, just worried about heat management the most over anything else. It seems the best place to mount a condenser* is on the front of the Rad. Just have to see what is more cost effective. Switching out the front cover, or buying this bracket and giving it a shot.
If I get air con, I can run that and route it back under the hood with a hose
Time to make my own thread for a write up of some sort. They agreed to document the progress with pictures so I can put info out there.
I'm running a completely stock rx8 cooling system with my swap (swap is street ported). I'm finding operating temps to be significantly cooler than my boosted Renesis, but I'm also in a cooler climate than most others. I'm sure straightening out my oil cooler fins while I was waiting for the new engine probably contributed to this as well.
It’s fine for the Renesis too, just some of the factory configuration is fubar and causing that issue. Once you understand and correct for this it’s fine. Same for the oil coolers. I concluded that they did it intentionally for emissions.
I did overlook that Promax likely developed the AC bracket for RHD being in Australia, so that was a good point about possible interference with the steering shaft on s LHD chassis.
.
.
If I am remembering properly, for the Renesis danger territory was over 220F-230F (104C - 110C). I know on my boosted Renesis I would see 210F (98C) after hard driving then getting stuck in traffic or at a light in hot weather and it never was an issue.
I would assume there isn't much difference for the REW temperature limit wise, but I'm curious to hear what others have to say about the matter.
Proper undertray and sealed up properly mostly. And lower fan on temps
After that things start to get expensive.
Bigger rad....dual pass preferably. Higher output fans
Larger oil coolers and different thermostats...fans on them if you do a lot of slow speed stuff
You can change the coolant thermostat....it doesn't make that much difference....but will give you a slightly lower temp to start so a bit more time to heat up
Vented hood helps a lot too depending on where the vents are.
Intercooler size and position and A/C condenser make a difference as well
Just a quick update. I have taken my car out every week to keep the it moving. Car still runs well. I have noticed that when it heat soaks, the starter turns slow and it won't start.
I know the compression isn't helping me out, but the the starter itself is slow to turn (seems like its at 100 RPMs). I purchased one of the Series 2 $90 DB Electrical N3R3 eBay starter and threw it in this weekend.
Car starts real fast now. Even when the car is hot, it cranks full speed and starts quick. Only another 45 days or so until it cools down and the rain stops.
For the winter, I may have to put my intercooler in the normal position since I will have a tough time keeping heat in the motor with the condenser removed from the radiator. Excited to finally see what I can do with 369 can do in cool weather and low IATs.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 09-14-2020 at 02:00 PM.
Been real busy the past month. As noted in the pervious posts, I have been trying to get my mustang roadworthy so I have a track car backup in case the rx8 goes down.
The mustang sat in my old driveway for approximately 5 years only to get started occasionally. The wet humid weather sure did a number on everything. Now it has its own space in the garage I can properly restore it. I had a number of issues getting it to run properly.
Without going into too much detail, I have replaced about 20 parts on it to get it running top notch including ignition coil, plugs, wires, new distributor, new fuel pump, coated charge pipes, new Hobbs switch for methanol system, swapped CCRM unit, new battery, new belt, new oil, installed a new MAF adapter plug, vacuum leaks, new tires (265/35/18 and 295/40/18), flushed brakes, cleaned injectors, changed fuel filter, replaced a leaky fitting on the fuel filter, fixed bolts on driver side accessory bracket, new front end bolts, new hood struts, compression test, retuned the car, the list goes on. Car runs like a top now.
Car is much richer above 4,000 now and is smooth with no pinging or misfires. Car was at 10.7:1 air fuel at 5,700 RPMs and 9.3 psi. This is a 11:1 motor so I really can't put much more boost in it. Ignition timing is a semi-conservative 18 degrees.
Anyways, now that the mustang is up and running, I can refocus my energy back on the rx8.
It was one of the first cool morning in Florida (80 F) that wasn't humid. So I dropped the wastegate duty cycle down to 38% and went for an hour long drive around town. Car started and ran great. Did a few WOT pulls. Car performed well.
38% duty appears to be about 18-22 psi
2nd to 3rd gear pull below.
Right at 6,800 RPMs in second gear at 59mph the 245/45/18 R-compound tires broke loose and spun it up to 70 mph (you can see the mound signal on the green RPM line)
Shifted into 3rd and it planted up to 95 mph before letting off.
Air/fuel was 11.3-11.8:1
Timing 15.5-17.5, 10 split
Ethanol content was 33%
Injecting 666 cc/min methanol and 333 cc/min of water into the charge pipes at 22 psi
IAT went from 100 to 114 (delta 14) cool weather
0 knock except for backfires on the gear changes
Only saw 38% of the last 1,650 cc/min injector being used. Still about 900-1000 cc/min injector capacity left on each rotor though I did short shift.
Just as I suspected with removing the condensing core, the water temp was low at 165F. Moving the intercooler back in the normal position may help with the cool weather coming.
Delta through 3rd gear was 892 RPM/S or 11.2 MPH/S
I am pleased with these acceleration numbers as it going to get much cooler/dryer and I will probably end up turning it up another 4-5 pounds.
Even with a hurt rear rotor, I don't think 12 MPH/S is going to be difficult to hit this season....
More to come.
Also the way both car sit, I think the rx8 put a few cars on the mustang in a roll race. From a dig, the mustang would probably win.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 10-03-2020 at 06:20 PM.
Intercooled moved back to normal position due to the cooling weather and removal of the condenser.
Before
After
Hopefully in the next few days I will be able to get some fresh logs on IAT and WT.
IIRC, last year I was seeing upwards of 40+ degree rise in IATs on high boost with the S362SXE, sometimes hitting 140-150 F at the end of a pull.
This year with the more efficient, S369SXE with larger AR and bigger turbine wheel and housing + putting the intercooler in a more favorable location, I am hoping for maybe only a 10-15 F rise during a 1/4 mile pull. I also moved the second methanol/water nozzle to the charge pipe in front of the throttle body. I think water temps will be fine, maybe have to do some ducting of some sort. Maybe a bigger core 4" or 5" in the future? The current intercooler is only rated to 1250 CFM. More to come.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 10-04-2020 at 12:35 PM.
Just some cleanup. Removed the AC line from the firewall to the compressor and was able to cleanup the firewall some. Finally able to mount the FPR and E-sensor permanently to the firewall.
Did some more work to the car like redoing a few of the coolant lines and remove a few more AC components. Also had to add some fuel from the last pull. Going from hot ambient temps with high humidity to cooler dryer temps has required like 2-5% more fuel in the table and from the newest pull I will have to add more.
This is a zoomed in on 3rd gear from a 1-3 easy pull (shifting at 7k)
DC at 40% 18-22 psi
11.0 MPH/S run through 3rd gear.
30% ethanol content
Will turn it up once I get the E content up and it cools down a bit more.
Need more fuel.
This is the IAT log of the same 1-3 gear easy pull (short shifting at 7k)
IAT started at 107 F
IAT ended at 98 F
and saw a peak of 119 F at the top of 3rd gear
Delta was only 12 F from start of pull to top of 3rd gear.
The FMIC location and 2 nozzles of water/meth after the FMIC is doing its best to keep the IATs in check.
More efficient turbo is helping as well.
Here are the consequences of blocking the radiator. This log is about 15 minutes of normal driving. While driving around, the coolest the water temps would get to on long easy driving was 181F and 210 sitting at long traffic lights. The good news is that the temp is going to drop a lot over the next few months and this number should drop as well. I won't also have to worry about the water temp being too cold like it was in some of the previous pulls at 165 F....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 10-17-2020 at 11:39 AM.
With the whole IC positioning thing and overheating the engine. My approach has been to get the most efficient IC possible and size it such that there is still good airflow to the rad. But having it upright to get the best airflow through it . Pretty happy with the results from this strategy.
Have tracked the car several times on 30C day (40C track temps) and managed to hold engine temp while max IAT being less than 15C above ambient.
Took the car out tonight. It was about 68 degrees and not humid. I dropped the duty cycle down to 40 just to be on the safe side.
Water temps were about 170-180 cruising around.
Pull from 40 to 100 mph in 2nd and 3rd gear. Spun the tires in 2nd gear from 60-70mph (nice squiggles in the speed sensor). 21-24 pounds of boost. 30% ethanol content.
IATs went from 87 to 114. A long way from the 150 degree discharge temps I was seeing on the 62mm with smaller rear housing and smaller down-pipe.
MPH/S through 3rd gear 11.0. A good shakedown run, hoping for colder weather. I richened it up the AFR. Seems to like it more leaner.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 11-20-2020 at 07:32 PM.
First cold night in Florida! I had to take the car out as its currently in the mid-40s.
The tires are simply worthless on the cold roads, and they are R compound 27" diameter 245/45/18s. Could not take the car over 6-6.5k in 2nd or 3rd gear without sending the car into a death spin. Either going to have to get some new tires for the 15's or turn the power down on the street. Here is the best pull I had.
Ambient temp - mid-40's
3rd gear from 4,000-6,500
50-80 mph, you can see the RPM line (green) and MPH line (burgundy) begin a upward trajectory as the tire looses contact.
Turbo duty cycle 40 (saw about 2 psi more than normal due to cold weather)
20 psi by 5,400, saw a peak of 26 psi at 6,300 (exactly where the tires broke loose)
10.8-11.5 AFR
Leading timing 13.5-16.5, split 10
0 knock, 127 knock on lift (fireball)
Injector Duty Cycle 93%/93%/53% at 6,600 (tires spinning, was lifting)
37% ethanol content
1000 cc/min methanol/water injection (2:1)
Water Temp 168F IATs 57-75 (after I lifted the UIM temp dropped back to 50F almost instantly due to the residual water/meth)
Who would have though you could have a 75F (24 C) IAT peak on a turbo at 20+ psi?
Acceleration maxed in 3rd gear at 12.0 MPH/S right up until the car spun.
I'm going to try and pull 2-3 psi out, ramp the boost a little softer, and clean up the air/fuel and see if I can pull it to 8k.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 12-02-2020 at 06:56 AM.
continuing congratulations for your accomplishments and sharing the data. no question but the best rotary tuning journey on the web.
you are waiting for the but".....
IAT. if you do want to learn your actual IAT you need to add a Type K Thermocouple. 4 readings per second, accuracy is plus or minus .4% or .4 of one degree F at 100 F.
buy this item and an amplifier: (i use the Innovate 4 channel amp. if you need just one channel EGT Technologies has the amp)
i recently fixtured a "fast" thermistor into my UIM and also have my "air" thermocouple that i have run for 8 years. i moved from Wisconsin to N Georgia mid year and have been delayed a bit from the move. my ViPEC V88 died just as i was getting back to boost and i should receive (today) my Link ExtremeX ECU so i should be back on the road soon. i very much look forward to posting comparative logs re IAT soon.
at 20 PIS boost, air coming from your compressor is over 415 F. i find my IAT immediately reaches a peak as the TPS reaches 100.
you have an advantage V me re base fuel as i run 93 octane pump while you have lots more ethanol. i inject 1000 CC of pure methanol (no water) at the front of the elbow. my IAT at the stock location under the stock UIM typically is 110 F. Methanol cools better than ethanol so it is anybody's guess how we compare. i really look forward to getting back up and running so we can look at the comparative data.
the primary reason (other than sheer curiosity) why i am doing the comparo is i think there are lots of people thinking they have no problem IATs when they may be closer to detonation than they think. (probably not you as you have it handled w your mix of base fuel and AI)
congrats on your fastest accel rate! nothing beats dense (cold) air to make power. i now live in the mountains (o k mini mountains) and am still looking for a straight level road. unsucccessful to date. also, i am at about 2200 Ft.
I see the value in getting true IATs, but i'm at the point where I can't really turn it up anymore. It would be for science at this point.
I live about 60 feet above sea level and can be on the flat interstate 5-10 minutes from my front door, so when its cold, I get all the air. The only problem is the other 8 months of the year where its hot/humid.
Even with the low compression in the motor the car still cold/hot starts fine. Should be able to get some good data this weekend as its gonna get cold again.......
So.... I turned the boost down. It wasn't as cold tonight so I probably could have left it were it was. Got a few runs with a C7 ZO6, but the car would yank 2 cars on me before the turbo would spool up. I could keep it around 2 cars through the pull, but still just too much torque in those things. Even at higher boost, still too much lag.
Ambient - Low 60s/High 50s 3rd gear from 5,500-7,500 60-95 mph Turbo duty cycle 37, dropped to 36 above 7,000 18-23 psi 11.3-11.6 AFR Leading timing 15.5-18.5, split 10 0 knock Injector Duty Cycle 93%/93%/48.9% 40% ethanol content 1000 cc/min methanol/water injection (2:1) Water Temp 179F
IATs 82-104 F Acceleration maxed in 3rd gear at 11.2 MPH/S
Will use this tune for extremely cold nights.
Will go back to the 21-25+ psi tune (40+ duty cycle) for nights like this.
08-24-2020, 02:51 PM
cool weather
(after I lifted the UIM temp dropped back to 50F almost instantly due to the residual water/meth)
