When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ignition coil question. I have the BHR ignition system and was going to use those for the swap then use the Rx8 mounting bracket and modify it as needed to fit under the UIM some what like factory REW coils seems like I should have plenty of clearance once the bracket is modified. Is this how most go about mounting ignition coils like the rew or is there a better way to go about this or clearance issue I'm unaware of? Thanks.
Ignition coil question. I have the BHR ignition system and was going to use those for the swap then use the Rx8 mounting bracket and modify it as needed to fit under the UIM some what like factory REW coils seems like I should have plenty of clearance once the bracket is modified. Is this how most go about mounting ignition coils like the rew or is there a better way to go about this or clearance issue I'm unaware of? Thanks.
I mounted mine on the subframe where the drivers side motor mount was. Lots of room and airflow to keep them cool... and allow for short plug wires that are basically all the same length.
Damn what a great idea didn't even consider that but you are right so much room. Definitely going to mount them there. Thinking I will test fit. Then clean up the bracket and modify if needed then run a m8 tap into the subframe and mount it up. Thanks so much for your input been very helpful.
Ignition coil question. I have the BHR ignition system and was going to use those for the swap then use the Rx8 mounting bracket and modify it as needed to fit under the UIM some what like factory REW coils seems like I should have plenty of clearance once the bracket is modified. Is this how most go about mounting ignition coils like the rew or is there a better way to go about this or clearance issue I'm unaware of? Thanks.
Originally Posted by dannobre
I mounted mine on the subframe where the drivers side motor mount was. Lots of room and airflow to keep them cool... and allow for short plug wires that are basically all the same length.
I've had both. I used BHR coil originally and had them mounted under the UIM as you mention. They fit perfect with no mods to engine harness and ability to reuse same length plug wires as on my renesis. I then later changed my setup to IGN-1A coils with a dedicated subharness and mounted the coils to the subframe on drivers side same as Dan is saying. As he mentions this is a much better spot for cooling but requires some harness mods. One downside is that it makes getting plugs out a bit more tedious if you want to go through the wheel well like you have to on the Renesis; luckily with the REW the spark plugs are accessible through the top I just need to go get myself a smaller ratchet as my current one doesn't have enough swing radius clearance
What place should I contact to get the remote oil filter adapter you guys mentioned force fed? There are a lot of places called that and could not find any thing online. I do recall someone mentioned that they don’t have it listed on online and was by contact only so maybe that’s why I can’t find it.
These are the guys here. I just sent them an email asking for the REW oil filter pedestal adapter. Came with required bolts and O-Ring, you just need to get the AN adapter to thread into it.
More progress made. Gas tank is out as well as evap/charcoal canister bits and fuel lines. Ready for fuel cell. Fuel fittings and splitter for the rails all arrived it will be -8 from the tank -8 to the secondary rail and -6 to the primary -6 return. Differential was dropped out removed the mount purchased new delrin bushings and will install once they are received. Water pump was cut and re-welded finally clears happy with the result. Got an aluminum plate fabed up so Greddy intake elbow can be bolted straight to the UIM. Welded the bhr throttle body spacer to the elbow tb can be bolted up now. Very happy with how the intake turned out looks super clean. Once diff bushings Arrive The entire drivetrain will be installed. Then will install turbo intake down pipe waste gate water pump pulley’s etc. thanks hope all is well
Switched out to these Allen head bolts tonight. Allows better clearance on the intake elbow than the 12mm head ones I had mainly on the bottom ones. Also taped the bhr tb spacer with m8. Did this for the ease of installing the throttle body and if I put a nut on the standard m6 bolt it would’ve had minor problems clearing the weld. The throttle body holes where also drilled out to fit the m8 bolt now needed.
I know it’s been a while since I updated. But lots of progress was made last week after finally receiving the parts I needed. Took forever to get the differential bushings but once I got those pressed those in and put the diff back in also added new fluid. Got the trans in drive shaft and ppf. Need to set up the remote oil filter and ignition coils. I got the force fed pedestal got that mounted not just need to mount the oil filter block on the subframe. waiting on a starter alternator and fuel injectors. Then on to intercooler and rad and plumbing everything. Cheers
Riley, forgive me if it was mentioned above, tried looking and didn't see, but did you finalize your plans for fuel delivery? Are you sticking with the Rx8 system but with a higher flowing pump or planning to modify for return style?
No problem there Kinda went over it briefly. My plans are to modify for return going with an areomotive 340 15 gal fuel cell -8 feed line with in line aeromotive filter up to a splitter from there spits to the full function engineering primary and secondary fuel rails got injector Dynamics Id 1050cc x2 on the primary rail and Id 2600cc x2 on the secondary rail (note probably over kill but might like to run e85 later but for now just pump gas) then -6 return off both rails to an aero motive fuel pressure reg then one -6 back to the fuel cell. sound like a solid set up?
I think the 1050x/2600 combo is good. Splitting the line into both rails is fine, but likely unnecessary/overkill for your power level. That 340 lph fuel pump likely be out of juice long before your injectors/lines will be.
Yeah I definitely thought it was going to be over kill but that’s better than not enough but yeah I agree fuel pump will run out before anything but should work great for 350-400. Thanks for the input glad to hear that this will work well
Yeah sounds legit to me. I also have questions about running the rails in parallel like that. For simplicity sake mine are run in series (line in to primary, then line from primary to secondary, then line to FPR and back to tank). What are the pro's and con's when comparing a parallel setup to series? The obvious benefit I see is equal inlet pressure on both fuel rails, but is it really that big of a difference compared to a series setup?
I used -6an all around with a walbro 450 and am planning to push ~450rwhp with ID1000/2000 injectors. You are definitely overkill for pump fuel but leaves you room to go for more in the future if you choose.
Honestly I have no idea what the pros and cons are like you said probably negligible a pro of series is less complicated and less lines to run but also with parallel like you said most likely equal fuel pressure at both rails. but with that said I did it in parallel because the fpr had two inputs and a splitter is cheap and it just made more sense to me to run it that way also didn’t consider running it in series until after I bought parts. But running them in series does work great as I have done that on Subarus in the past. If anyone has input on pros and cons of these set ups let us know. Also yeah that was the plan go overkill and have plenty of head room for more in the future if wanted as mentioned. Thanks for all the input and good discussion guys 👍
Got the turbo officially bolted down that was a pain in the ***. Was able to get to 3 of the bolts through the passenger side wheel well with a long ratcheting wrench pretty easy the one inside bolt was a pita though had to pull off comp housing and oil drain flange and still could barely get in there with a stubby wrench but got it done. Down pipe and mid pipe are installed as well still got to get a muffler or rear section of the exhaust. Ignition system is installed ended up going under the intake manifold as I’m doing the remote oil filter on the subframe so had the room and was fairly simple to mount it there put the new plugs in as well went with all of the ngk factory 9 heat range plugs. Coming along nicely happy with how it’s turning out. I was planning on going v mount with intercooler and rad. Was looking at a Garrett core but couldn’t find end tanks for the size of core that would fit in the 8 so I was looking at a defined auto works v mount for a fd. Ic size with end tanks is 24x12x3.5 just core is 18x12x3.5 based of my measurements I have about 25in so it should just fit. Anyone have any input or ideas about the v mount set up I figured that would have to modify things even with the kit but just curious on other peoples opinions. Thanks everyone
.
Just curious if any had any input on the vmount set up was going to buy a lot of parts this weekend v mount kit was one of them but if anyone has ideas or intercoolers that fit that would be great 👍. Thanks
Have you made anymore progress? im looking into doing a swap myself and so far I like what i'm seeing
Just a friendly warning for people wanting to do the REW swap.
First add everything you will need up on a excel sheet and it will likely approach 15k if you use solid parts. Realize that this swap will take you a year or more to get running and probably another year to get running reliably and at high horsepower.
After you have done all of that, just buy the swap from me at a 50% discount and I'll throw in the car for free and save 1000 hours of your life....
Seriously through there is probably 10x as much work behind the scenes that is done for each step posted. Almost everything has to be modified, test fit, and installed/reinstalled 5x.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-15-2021 at 11:31 AM.
Yeah I could not agree more I’m definitely way over 15k probably closer to 25k but I’ve bought everything new and got pretty good parts and I’m probably only 65-70% finished. I’m sure you can do it cheaper but I did it my way. Also agree 100% on the test fitting and a lot more work than you might think. I probably had engine and trans in and out 10 times test fitting everything. I would really think about it before you start a swap as looking back I should have just tried to find one that was done already cheaper and easier but to late now haha. Just gotta finish it up now
09-27-2020, 02:27 PM
