Well sucky news, with the studs in the manifold I cannot get the turbine housing on. It is possible with only the lower two studs. Looks like either I will have to just move the engine over for install. Or drop the subframe for install.





Otherwise I have been playing around with the power harness. Im in the process of relocating the battery to the trunk. I found a nice layout that let's me tuck the wiring off to the side and avoid lengthening wires. The only wire I am changing is the alternator wire, down to a 2ft wire that is fatter 7awg > 2awg. To work with a 180A alternator.


The power steering harness is getting tucked around the bay to make room for intercooler ducting.

Speaking of intercooler, I saw that CXracing also has pretty much perfectly sized intercoolers for what I need. This should get us running for sure, I think it would be possible to go taller if needed.


I located the improved racing oil filter/ 185C thermostat. Now to design an oil pedestal adapter which can hold the Aem pressure and temp sensors.

 

Hey Minc I checked JDL's website do you know if I order the one on the site it will be the lower version or the taller version? I guess I should just reach out to him ha.

Also killer progress on the manifold design. I think you may have something going for you there.

 

I would just contact him, he responds to email typically same day. Again my engine is located extremely close to the stock Renesis position.

Yeah I am fairly happy with the manifold right now. Other than the difficulty in installing the turbo over studs. Perhaps one of the unequal length manifolds would have allowed for easy install. On the other hand I hopefully shouldn't have to remove my turbine housing too often.

 

Have you tried installing bolts/nuts instead of studs on the top two? I also have a mishmash of hardware for mounting my turbo to manifold for the same reasons.

 

it’s too short between the flanges and lacking fluidity compared to what we had discussed/reviewed, not by much but enough to inhibit proper flow efficiency imo.

we abandoned that approach for a different orientation on the EFR B2 frame. Some of it had to do with the engine position relative to the engine support cross-brace brand/type being used. Send me an email if you want to discuss it more.
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If it were possible to do only studs on the lower two T4 and bolts on the top, the turbo would just slide right in. However the IWG prevents you from inserting a bolt on the upper hole. Also you ideally want to use studs to prevent torsional force felt on the manifold side of the threads. Might not matter as much on the manifold side?

We are redesigning several new iterations of the manifold runners as well. Which is further solidifying the notion that I will have to move the engine over or drop the subframe to install the turbine.

Bonus: Here's an annotated version of how I reran the power wiring harness. I suggest just disassembling to individual wires and laying it all out with masking tape to hold the wires where you want.

 

Where you hiding the power steering module? I was going to stuff it behind the drivers fender.

 

I am going to attempt to keep the stock ECU box. Although I have seen some people add cooling fans for the ecu box. Or I might make an aluminum box instead

 

Thanks for this, this is something I'd like to review on my setup over the winter, mine is very similar to yours from what I can remember off the top of my head.

Question at the fuse box, the two powers (you have labelled as Bat+ and Alt.... are those two posts connected inside the fuse box then? I know both of mine have 12V constant, but I believe my main power from battery has a cable going to each post (I'd have to double check to be certain but this is what I can remember off the top of my head).

 

Did anyone ever thermo check how warm the ECU and PS Module gets? That little coolant duct cant bring in that much air...specially at low speed city driving.

 

it’s a known issue
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You can just tuck the passenger wiring harness in the passenger fender well. I have thought about placement for power steering ecu and main ecu. I can hide the power steering ecu behind the bumper cover. I also thought about making an aluminum box for the main ecu but will be make a duct as well if I do that. I suggest you do the same. Should not be too complicated or problematic if you follow the stock design or even use the stock duct.

 

Oh duh, you are talking about the power harness. Yeah my plan is very similar.

 

My plans have been haltech where airbag goes and PSM behind fender; should get enough airflow from wheel well there. My front crash bar is modified and my oil cooler lines are being routed through that area. Hopefully today I pick up my crimped lines and powder coated bash bar.

 

It worries me to have it exposed to getting wet; or at least extremely so. I’m assuming why it’s in an enclosure in the first place

That said, the one in the Strokercharged RX8 is entirely exposed at the front RH corner of the engine bay. Which is why it concerns me.

 

Never driving my car in the rain. Despite it rains 366 days a year here.

 

I have been cleaning up random wiring harnesses. I think I may disassemble the intank surge tank and just run holley fuel mats instead. So basically I would run the JDL passthrough and just have the two walbro 450s running with the siphon coming off the return line. Mainly I do not like how congested it is. 90% of the volume of the surge tank is taken up by the two pumps and plumbing. I will just reuse the DW300c on my other RX8.


The most recent iteration gradually necks down in area, while maintaining a 0.5in bend radius. Without moving the flange farther away, this is probably the best you could get. To move the flanges farther apart I would have to move the engine towards the driver side of the car.

PTFE 8an oil lines are in. I found a good trick of cutting the tube. Then straighten the end of the ptfe by pushing and twisting a pair of needlenose pliers in the tube. This makes installing the fitting after the olive is introduced much easier.

Only thing left is the return line to a custom oil pedestal and the turbo drain.


Davies Craig Electronic water pump is in. I have decided on just doing a simple V-mount setup to get the car running.

Most of the Fuel hardlines are in. I have mounted the fuel filter in the tunnel.

We found it best to half drop the fuel tank down to do the rear lines. Right now it is entirely hardline to the tank. Perhaps I will add a softline connection to the tank later if needed.

Bonus: I saw atkins lists these exhaust gaskets, might be worth checking out: Link

 

looking good Minc!
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We are using a lot of the same parts. The JDL fuel tank is definitely small and I feel the same way. I'm intending to leverage the ECU for fuel/temp pressure monitoring and hope for the best. What material you use for hardline? Where you purchase? I am thinking about redoing my fuel lines.
May steal your location for the oil filter.
What are you thinking about the V-Mount as far as location?

 

For the hardlines I used summits copper/nickel line. With fragola tube ends. I believe I have the part numbers listed somewhere on my Google sheet in the first post. I will be updating that sheet soon.

As far as the vmount it will be similar to most rx7 vmounts. I plan on venting the intercooler out the front of the hood. The radiator will just vent under the car for now. Mounting wise it will all be custom aluminum sheets using rivnuts to fasten. Probably some epdm foam or silicone in places to seal.

 

I wasn’t aware that Summit sold that tubing, since they don’t list it as “cunifer”. It’s cheaper than the high end stuff I bought. Given that it’s such a low pressure compared to brake line use, buying it there probably makes more sense.

I missed this though; most people use 10AN on the oil lines.
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I went with 8an oil lines this time since several IDs of the rx8 oil system were roughly the same ID as the 8an ptfe line. I will watch the oil pressure feeding the engine though. I can grab some measurements when I get home.

it wouldnt be too bad to swap out to 10an later if needed.

 

You will be using some oil capacity using 8AN as well,

Also need to see your fueling setup! I have the same fuel filter, fittings and lines laying around, maybe I exchanged links with you, I forget ha.

I'll finally picking up wrenches again this winter. Our little guys finally not so much of handful so I can actually spend some time in garage. Fueling will be the first thing I tackle here soon.

 

Yeah I think Team is right, I should have just gone with 10an oil lines. I was trying to make use of extra mats I bought. After some research it seems people see a 15-20psi loss in oil pressure when on 8an lines vs 10an. Well I have some leftover 10an fittings from another project anyways. Womp Womp

Yeah I copied the fuel filter you chose. The only good place I found to mount it was that diagonal flatspot in the tunnel with m6 rivnuts I think. It should stay far enough away from the PPF that I am not worried. Honestly the hard lines under the car were a great Idea, they were super easy to do. The 8an feed line does not fit in the plastic retainers though.

 

Assuming I get to running my fuel lines before you get your car finished I will get some of those printed and sent your way. I'll run into the same issue.