This may be a bit of issue up front for rubbing, specifically on the fender liner behind the oil coolers, but you're missing a very important number, wheel offset. I run a 255/35/18 on a +30mm offset and that is near the limit of no rubbing, so with 19's its going to be even tighter. Next set of tires I do want to try some 265/35's but I also have some Tein adjustable coilovers that I'm going to install so I can play around with ride height more.

 

I wont have the stock fender liners up front, although the side marker light may still be the closest point. I am trying to stick to relatively the same tire diameter to keep the speedo accurate along with longer gearing. For now the car has brand new stock suspension from the previous owner, but I would likely get another set of tein flexZs since they have been great on my other rx8. Found some 19in examples of people mixing and doing 235s up front and 265 in the rear, but they didn't list offset. Might be easier to just print up a wheel and tire size tool, looks like many people have made them and provide the files.

This calculator is pretty nice for tires and gear ratios
https://tremec.com/aftermarket/resou...io-calculator/

 

+1

Offset and believe it or not also tires themselves play factors in how much clearance you have and potential issues with rubbing. I have replaces sets of tires with the same size as the old ones, but things like the sidewall thickness and how they design the shoulder of the tire have left me sometimes with tires that were more sleek or more bulky and as a result have had rubbing or eliminated it. Keep this in mind when looking for a tire as they do have subtle differences that can cause bigger or smaller issues (from my experience).

 

More updates, started throwing everything into place.

• My brother cnc'd me the oil fill piece, now we just need to drill and tap some holes. So far it clears the stock clutchline, but the rear bolt may be annoying to undo. Youd either need to disconnect the slave, or brake the line I think.
• Still working on the post throttlebody elbow, but have the plastic print in place. We are just going to 3d print a jig to bolt up the flanges for welding.
• Charge pipes are welded up

To do:

• Fuel pressure reg + Flex fuel sensor mount
• Make an Idler pulley
• Make/buy turbo coolant lines
• Install the new new clutch, now that i have an rx8/fc clutch kit
• Make an alternator bracket, since the JDL alternator bracket doesn't really hold it.
• Figure out coolant plumbing (Will probably start without the full system setup, we will just run a large bucket with a pump.)

 

My brother finished machining the oil feed on his cnc. I may clean up some of the insides for flow. Anyways here are pics.

 

Another short update:

• Finally got brakefluid and clutch fluid in and bled.......I still hate having to bleed the clutch system in rx8s even with a pressure and vac system.
• Oil is ready to pour in, so that may be this weekend.
• Fuel components are all mounted and connected, tightened as far as I know and ready to probably leak somewhere.
• Vac tubing is ready to be connected, I bought a surplus of tubing and one way valves, plugs, caps etc.
• Gaskets are mostly made

The coolant system is mostly planned out. For now I am going to run the turbo water lines in series after the heatercore. I questioned running it in parallel with the heatercore or in parallel with the engine. To start this should serve its purpose though.

I had previously tested the fuel pumps and wiring with a short closed loop return at the engine bay hardlines. I am waiting for warmer weather to test the rest of the fuel system so that I dont have to worry about the heater or anything making a fireball.

 

Ok so we have oil and fuel. Turns out there is a bottleneck in the fuel system though. If I run both 450 pumps the pressure wont go below 65psi. Either the regulator itself or the 6an return.

If anyone has wired up the FFE 36-1 hall kit to the adaptronic let me know your pinouts. Most sensors appear to be working, but the trigger wont read a proper rpm. It seems to only read 1-50rpm while cranking, and we are definitely spinning faster than that.

Wiring:
Hall Red...... 8-12v................Currently pulled from the X18 connector black/white 12v source. (this reads 10v while cranking)
Hall white....signal to ecu......2Upin CAS1 CRANK+
Hall black....ECU ground.......2Xpin Signal Ground CRANK-

As far as I can tell the wiring looks right and we are getting some sort of correct signal. Perhaps something happened with the wheel or sensor, magnetized or something?

 

I used a hall effect sensor from FFE and had it wired almost the same as yours (I spliced into the white/blue 12v switched wire for injector power on the white block from the body harness), only difference is I used a 36-2-2-2 trigger wheel. How much gap do you have between trigger wheel and sensor? Eyeballing mine I'd say its roughly 1mm. Also did you wire this using shielded wires, could it be interference? I can only assume you have the proper settings for the FFE 36-1 trigger wheel set up in Eugene trigger settings?

 

Shawn had recommended the 36-1 over the 36-2-2-2 for accuracy reasons. I didnt measure yet, but that is coming soon from memory it is about 2-3mm which i can spacer closer. I have the signal and signal ground shielded, but not the 12v power. Jason with Rghtbraindesign is suggesting I use pin 2X for sgnGround instead of the Crank- pin. Then try 5AF on the chassis connector for power(which would require an extra connector to be able to disconnect. Which I was trying to avoid so my trigger sensor doesn't have more and more failure points. He also suggests 350rpm for cranking and offset angle between 0-5* Here are some extra pics to help.

 

WELL GOOD NEWS. Turns out it was the sensor gap. I reduced the gap from 3.7mm to 2.4 and got a clean waveform. RghtBrain suggests doing 0.6mm for a gap. I feel like FFE should probably include the recommended spacing in their install guide.


Right now the ECU reports CAS1 as only having 3v(key on) on the ECU data page. I measured with a DMM from CAS1 to ground and it reads 6v(key on). Power(red) is reading 12.7v(key on) and 10v while cranking.

 

Awesome! Glad it was something so simple. Yeah I was just eyeballing my gap, its probably even less than 1mm so I'd agree with the advice to get it closer. Andy built the trigger offsets for the FFE stuff right into his Adaptronic software so offset required should be very minimal (I only needed a 2deg offset with mine). You'll get that sorted after the car is running and you can get a timing light on it. A fun little tidbit just for contrast, Haltech doesn't have the FFE preset into the software, so on the same trigger wheel I had to offset it by like 62deg after I swapped ECUs.

 

Now that I am at the point of patching oil and fuel leaks I am really going to be hung up on coolant system soon. One thought I had was to change to a different intercooler and tilt the rear upwards to be more parallel to the ground. Which would easily give me room for the radiator up front instead of doing the trunk mount. I have been eying the koyo tube and fin cores and could build up 2x 18x5x2.5" for now and then maybe add more cores later if needed.


Post 500 woo

 

So not sure if I have bad luck or the ign1a coils are just prone to easy failure. This is the 2nd out of 9 coils I have which has failed. I fixed some leaks this weekend and put the key on for about 20 seconds before I started smelling burning plastic. As I guessed one of the sakebomb coils was smoking.

Hoping that they replace this one like they did for my other car that saw the same failure.


(wait we can click on images in the reply editor and size them? Crazy)

 

Maybe check the grounds? Grounds are on separate housings? Not sure if front rear housings matter, I did not validate if the front coils and housings and rear housings and coils lined up but I didn't have any issues. Also make sure your engine is grounded properly to the chassis.

Sakebomb harness worked fine for me.

 

I've had a similar experience with my IGN1A's, I've had 2 fry out of 7 randomly and on different circuits from each other. Last time it happened to me was a few years ago but I've read in the past that internal shorts on these are not uncommon. Both times it happened to me was while the car was idling in the garage. I'm using a rywire ignition harness for what it's worth. I now tend to disconnect my ignition harness if I know I'm going to have power to the car for extended periods while engine is off.

 

I did check all the grounds and everything is grounded properly to the engine, -bat, and chassis. I have a fat ground harness that goes between my -bat stud on the chassis and the center iron. I ended up swapping the leading to run on the trailing coil for now and no melt down. So just a **** coil that I probably will have to pay for..... Still no response from sakebomb.

I have another issue now though which seems to be the exhaust has A LOT of liquid gas and black fluid sitting in it. Which can be explained by the fuel pressure dropping to 0 at times during cranking. This seems to be a big downside of my turbo manifold, I can't get the fluid out. I will probably just disable everything and spin the engine to spit it out and catch it. Maybe another design could incorporate a dual EWG pathway which could serve as a drain.

I seem to have also lost about two quarts of oil somehow. Which Ive had quite a bit of leakage over the week, but I didnt think that much. Maybe it is just the oil coolers filling up?

 

I happen to have some spare coils I can let go of for cheap. Selling my spare parts to save up for my rebuild lol.

Might have been more ideal to tap from the bottom of the manifold rather than the sides. Not to say anyone would plan for draining fuel from the engine. Sounds like your injectors are failing open. Not sure how you would loose all fuel pressure completely even if they did though. Assuming there would be some back pressure across the injector.

If you overfill oil it should come up from the oil filler tube. I had the same issue when I was getting my engine primed. I would crank to build pressure then stop and oil would fill up the tube, actually out of the dipstick to be specific.

 

Im hoping sakebomb sends another one, so we will see if that happens first.

I had located the thermocouples such that the probe would be hit by the center of the exhaust stream to read the hottest temp.

Thats the funny thing, I dont know where all the oil went because it isn't on the floor. Ill be checking the dip stick more frequently for sure. Unless the exhaust is full of oil, but I doubt it based on the color of fluid coming out.

 

If this was your first time cranking the engine over and building oil pressure most of that oil went into filling the new keg, new oil lines, new filter, and whatever was drained out of the existing oil coolers etc. Top it back off and and crank it over some more, see if it holds level now.

 

Supposedly the rx8 system should hold about 8 quarts, which makes sense. I put in about 5 to start and 2 yesterday. The nicon pan holds 3.7quarts(the same as stock Rx8). My Improved Racing Remote filter thermostat only lets 5% bypass when cold so likely the oil coolers just don't fill fast. I didnt find much oil in the exhaust so unless someone is pranking me it should be in the keg.

I tried to run the engine more but it is absolutely dumping fuel. During cranking fuel pressure drops from 43psi to 0 (starts) and then climbs back to 43psi as the engine stumbles for 20s until it dies. With a 450lph pump it should flow 7500cc/min and my 2x primaries are only 1000cc. I am not to sure how the pressure drop is happening unless the 2x 2200 secondaries are opening during cranking. Considering how much gas is coming out of the exhaust I doubt that the pump is momentarily shutting off. I rewrote another basemap based on one of the adaptronic Rx8 single turbo rew swap basemaps to try tonight.

 

I'd have to agree, fuel pressure dropping to 0psi during cranking only is not likely your fuel pump; so first 2 places to look will be the tune itself, making sure it's not actually calling for an ridiculous amount of fuel at cranking, or if for some reason your injectors signal line from the ECU is grounding out during cranking and opening injectors fully. My guess is likely something to do with the tune map.

Edit: just a thought that occurred to me, are you measuring fuel pressure through the ECU via a wired fuel pressure sender, or are you witnessing this fuel pressure drop to 0psi on a mechanical gauge?

 

Both, the Fuel pressure sensor just before the regulator and also the mechanical gauge on the regulator are reading the same thing.

I may try disconnecting the secondary injectors to rule those out. the 2x1000cc shouldn't flow enough to drop pressure that much I'd think. Later I can snip some basemap setting pics.

EDIT: Sakebomb just got back to me and is not sending out a new coil, but they are giving me a 10% discount at least. Guess I will test it as soon as it arrives.

 

Well I forgot to take pics, but I solved part of the problem. Going through my sensors I wasn't getting a Map reading. Since the Map and Mat were on the chassis connectors I made a disconnect connector that was stuffed under the ECU. Turns out I left the connectors barely plugged in to each other.

So now when it starts it tries to rev to the moon. With the throttlebody 95% closed. I am assuming there is a massive vac leak. The UIM must have an opening through the casting that I didnt plug.

 

We have idle, granted it is at 3k rpm. Messing with the E-throttle settings as best I could only brought it down to 3krpm. I was away for the most of the weekend, but next I may smoke test for vac leaks.
AFR: 11.1
Target 12.1
VE: I believe the basemap had around 80

NEW Radiator and intercooler cores have arrived. So next weekend is mounting time. Then its a matter of plumbing and filling.

 

Well I achieved a good idle. Turns out the "learn voltage" function for the TPS doesnt work well. I did some trial and error to figure out happy voltages, and then just copied the presets for an rx8 basetune.

The injectors are still an issue. Because Adam sold me bosch injectors with no part numbers.