When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was smelling fumes in my garage and since i did the checkvalve at the end of the line in the engine bay, its alot better. I dont even know where the evap line connects on the tank tho
So in 2020, i had the chance to do some remote ecu tuning with RGHT brain desing(Ryan Heinrich) to improve drivability, he did a awesome job but im the meantime my clutch started slipping under power(20psi) so i lowered boost to avoid slip and also my tranny was grinding from 2nd to 3rd and also going into 5th(seems common on fd tranny), i bought another 5 speed tranny from my local rotary shop and found a used spec stage 3+ with low miles from
a guy on FB. Didnt had time to replace those at the end of 2020.
2021
I was able to take the car out of storage early april and brought it to my friend’s house to replace the tranny and clutch. Job went incredibly well, brought it back home and wow! Felt like a new car! Tranny is super smooth(you never know with jdm parts) and clutch is incredibly easy to operate to the point we tought something was wrong. Changed engine oil, put some fresh fuel and turned boost up and went to do a small test to make sure everything was fine and holding up. And yes! Its perfect ! im gonna continue tuning with Ryan soon to perfect some stuff and have some small maintenance to do also.
Did you get everything worked out with the tune? It sounds like you recommend RGHT brain desing(Ryan Heinrich) as a tuner. He did everything online correct? You still recommend him as a tuner?
Did you get everything worked out with the tune? It sounds like you recommend RGHT brain desing(Ryan Heinrich) as a tuner. He did everything online correct? You still recommend him as a tuner?
Hi!
i did the easy part myself (fuel table, most other basic stuff) and yes Ryan tuned remotely the transiants, boost control and fixed what i did wrong and more advanced stuff
I was smelling fumes in my garage and since i did the checkvalve at the end of the line in the engine bay, its alot better. I dont even know where the evap line connects on the tank tho
What exactly do you mean by a check valve? I guess what I mean is I'm only finding in-line check valves. Did you find a terminal type check valve that fit onto the oem fitting?
Last edited by Warrior777; Apr 12, 2022 at 06:12 PM.
The metal Evap/Purge line (blue disconnect) next to the metal Fuel line (red disconnect) where they come up into the engine bay near the frame rail just below the brake booster.
A check valve arranged to only allow air into the fuel tank through the Evap/Purge line rather than allow fumes from the tank to escape out through it.
However, if the charcoal canister is still installed the fuel tank will vent through it and all you need to do is cap or plug that line instead.
.
The metal Evap/Purge line (blue disconnect) next to the metal Fuel line (red disconnect) where they come up into the engine bay near the frame rail just below the brake booster.
A check valve arranged to only allow air into the fuel tank through the Evap/Purge line rather than allow fumes from the tank to escape out through it.
However, if the charcoal canister is still installed the fuel tank will vent through it and all you need to do is cap or plug that line instead.
.
Yes this is exactly what Max was referring to. I went the capped route for mine.
The metal Evap/Purge line (blue disconnect) next to the metal Fuel line (red disconnect) where they come up into the engine bay near the frame rail just below the brake booster.
A check valve arranged to only allow air into the fuel tank through the Evap/Purge line rather than allow fumes from the tank to escape out through it.
However, if the charcoal canister is still installed the fuel tank will vent through it and all you need to do is cap or plug that line instead.
.
you are right, thats what i did. But the check valve is installed the other way, if a pressure builds inside the tank, the check valve will relief the pressure but air wont come in, neither fumes
You may want to consider flipping it or capping it off then, though the check valve coupled with the long piping length and smallish diameter may have enough flow resistance that the tank is venting through the charcoal canister regardless.
I’m sure you can appreciate that the engine bay is not the place for fuel vapor fumes to potentially be venting to.
.
i had issues with internal map sensors in the past, sent ecu for repair back then, failed again, then installed a omni power 3bar (gm knock off) wich also failed after some time. I changed it for a aem 3.5bar stainless sensor and its running flawlessly now.
i replaced the fuel pressure sensor i bought from shawn when he was with turblown that was acting up and scaling has never been right for a aem brass sensor and scaled it correctly and now it reads the same as my gauge in the cabin.
I disabled overrun fuel cut to have lubrification during decell but doing that, my afr gets super rich(8afr!) and would sometime freeze my innovate psb1 gauge wich is connected serial on ecu and would cause to trim fuel unless it turn off the car to reset the gauge.
i replaced that psb1 for a aem x series wideband and connected it serial like the innovate. The aem is more precise and reliable, i only use the psb1 as a boost gauge now.
i made a tablet dash using a microsoft surface go, unforntunaty after a month of using it, microsoft did a firmware update wich bricked the tablet. After a few emails they finally sent me a new replacement tablet ! I was sad when it stopped working but having a replacement fixed that, even if it took a few months.
fixed my grom ipd3 module that wouldnt connect to my phone over bluetooth, grom support was great to deal with !
car is running great, 19psi, does 60kph to 150kph in 6.5 sec, 60 to 108 in 2.45sec, 13.3 kph of acceleration in 1 sec in 3rd gear, 20 kph per sec in 2nd. Fueling is pretty close to target, i spent some time with megalog viewer hd tuning fuel map and it shows. Car feels
stock when cruising around, other than the smell lol. Once in a while when i do a pull, i see a lot of smoke(gray) in the back of the car, no oil consumption, cant figure out what causes that…turbo has a small rubbing issue when i cold start the car, once warm its all good.
engine leaked coolant from the back of engine when i took it out of storage but it stopped when weather got warmer, cant tell if its a frost plug of stud that it leaking yet.
would need to go on a dyno to see how it does, but meh, its fast enough!
Last edited by MaD666MaX; Aug 9, 2022 at 08:30 PM.
the vband flange on my turbo broke, suspect dilatation/retraction overtime managed to break it. Ordered a new turbine housing and added a flex in the midpipe. Also redid the charge pipe where the maf was(dont need it) and its up and running
but im the meantime my clutch started slipping under power(20psi) so i lowered boost to avoid slip and also my tranny was grinding from 2nd to 3rd and also going into 5th(seems common on fd tranny), i bought another 5 speed tranny from my local rotary shop and found a used spec stage 3+ with low miles from
