LOL Basically

 

The answer is no. It doesn't have stock T5 gears, doesn't have stock T5 shifter, doesn't have stock T5 synchros, doesn't even use a T5 case.

 

U guys are just plain confusing.

 

The people I know of who actually have them are very happy. It ends up being an easy, direct bolt-in solution in every regard; engine mounting, clutch operation, shifter position, PPF mounting. Custom gear ratios are a no cost option. The lay/countershaft is converted into a multi-piece unit with all gears swappable. Where are you getting your information from?

 

Hey all,

So a few more questions to those experienced with the swap.

First off, would I be better off buying the banzai racing 13brew low profile oil pan or just get their brace for the oem oil pan? Going off of Schartz's build it seems the oem pan is sufficient, however some clarification would help my lack of experience greatly.

What block off plates are recommended? Plan on using Xcessive LIM, stock UIM, probably aftermarket throttle body. My guess is:
Second Oil Return Line
Idle Speed Control
Double Throttle
AWS

 

What are you doing with the car...street driving mostly..or track?

The stock oil pan is OK for most, but at extreme track cornering loads you can loose your oil pickup and starve the engine.....and loose the shaft and bearings

There is an issue with the ventilation on the engine...and if you are making bigger boost with hard cornering you can blow out oil into the intake or catch can...and we aren't talking a little

There is way to vent the engine through the normal vent and the rear turbo drain so that it always has a patent vent under cornering...that seems to work from what I hear...but didn't try it.

Are you planning on using the RX8 throttle body? If you aren't...you are better staying with the FD throttle as it seems that taking it out and just using the Greddy elbow on the UIM and the RX8 throttle causes flow issue favoring the rear rotor

Block offs....easy to make your own...are you using the FD idle motor? If not you can block off a lot of stuff. I pulled a lot of the vac nipples and misc crap off mine and Tig'd them closed

 

Well, I do mostly (all atm) street driving, but that being said I do see high lateral G's. Ideally I'd like to take it to mountain courses, both uphill and downhill. It will be DD in the summer, but I plan to take it off winter duty ASAP. Turns out being a snowplow really isn't so fun.

I suppose I should ask what kind of big boost are we talking? I hope to be conservative with the pressure, but flow will be large. Any link on that rear oil drain? Sounds like something I might need to utilize.

I'm planning on using an FD TB, specifically the CNC Cut Billet Aluminum Throttle Body. The Greddy elbow would then come off of that (provided that all fits). So the Idle speed control and double throttle are not necessary correct?

 

What ECU? You might want to try the idle control setup...if you don't have it is bit of a PIA until it warms up..

Anything over 10psi seems to start the oil blowing issue on mine....and it is in R hand corners that it would plug the drivers side vent and puke oil. Left handers you will have fuel issues...fun eh?

Unless you want to spend money..until about 450+ the stock FD throttle body isn't really an issue

The passenger side oil drain breather I saw on 7club I think?

 

Thanks Ill look into the breather when I get some time!

I havent decided on an ECU atm since I have a S2 and its a PITA to find out what integrates simply.

The plan was for 500whp @~14 or 15 psi, hopefully not having to exceed 16. I am a bit of a newb when it comes to dynamic fluid solutions. Does bumping up fuel press and oil press help starvation issues? I am going to be putting the block together in 2 months or so (depending how long cleaning and porting take). Should I get a higher pressure oil bypass regulator/squish the stock one slightly?

I'd like to not spend money unnecessarily, but if $400 extra is needed to ensure good response/flow I will spend it in a heartbeat.

 

The FD oil pressure regulator is OK..no real need for more pressure

The pressure will have no bearing on what happens when your pickup for either the oil or fuel becomes uncovered and the pump tries to pump air

As far a fuel pressure goes..I think it would make it worse..because higher pressure would mean shorter pulsewidth for the amount of fuel you need...and when the pressure drops there is even less time for the injectors to get no fuel

I doubt that you will get 500WHP at 15psi...it might be close...but likely closer to 450

It really isn't something to worry about anyway..HP #'s on a dyno are just a number that really has little relation to reality

 

subbing for parts sourcing for my own build.

 

Bummer on oil starvation. On the other hand I should mention I do plan in getting a surge tank. Hoping that will solve the issue but as always confirmation is key!

If you would like I can post my updated spreadsheet of parts however it is still not quite complete

 

Surge tank for oil?

 

Surge tank for fuel I can see how my wording was a but unclear lol.

 

In the picture posted the rotor has a bit of rough surface on the face. None of the specing guides I read say that this kind of wear is a problem, is this ok? I was planning on going over it with .5micron sand paper lightly, but I doubt it will take it off.

 

Updated spreadsheet. PDF for easy reading. URLs were too long, if you would like one feel free to ask.

 

Just wanted to point out live wire... I skimmed through your thread and wanted to suggest reading street rotary. It's an inexpensive book with damn good information. Your questions about the engine block and how to avoid oil starvation,for example, are answered in this book. Also, on the side note.. There are other good books available like street turbocharging that will give you a great and educated idea of how to piece your build. I'm glad everyone is contributing to your thread by giving you informed answers that in turn help the rest of us :-) just thought I would share some great sources Me and other used.

 

I will take a look into it thanks. I will probably not stop with this motor so I appreciate the input.

 

I'm no expert, but I wouldn't worry about that little bit of pitting. It doesn't seem to be in an important place that would change compression or cause improper wear on any seals.

 

hmmmm more pitting would equal higher displacement?


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orrrrr be a real cool guy and look into a 1.8L k8 v6 turbo or a kl v6 ? all the f1 cars are going 6 build a N/a 9k reving v6 it would be so sick

 

Sorry I meant "affect" not "change". An yes I got an extra 45 cubic inches out of my V8 motor by extreme pitting.

 

holy I was just kidding but what causes the pitting in the first place? weakness of the surface metal,, corrosion, minor detonation? just regular heat? ive torn apart an mzr 2.3L, 3Lm54, ka24de and a b18c1, and i was looking for cracks hairlines cips waves ect but dint see any pitting maybe i wasn't loking closely enough? i havent opened the Renny yet,, i got a nice peice of glass tho to coffee table it

 

45ci just by pitting? I think your math is out a little.

 

it was straight up sarcasm bruhda no worries :P

 

I have sort of a technical question regarding using degresser on aluminum. Does it actually corrode the aluminum and weaken it or just just remove all of the nice lubricant that it needs? Maybe just Bruns it? Not really a whole lot of consistency when I search.