logalinipoo

If it is lye based like sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide it rapidly eats away at the aluminum. Removing anodizing and base metal. A lot of them are sodium hydroxide.

SiNfidelity

Except 3rd gear maybe,,,,,hopefully it's engineered at same standard as fd etc.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I can't see it being different structurally.....I'm still not sure what I have in my JDM tranny for gears. The JDM ones might have the same ratios as the FD's?

I guess I will have to turn the imput shaft and see what comes out the other end

SiNfidelity

Is the oil starvation issue relevant to 20b's also?
Would this book be useful for a 20b also?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Oil pan is a bit longer on a 20B...but oil system is basically the same...so expect the same issues

RedDream

Correct on the above... It has great info and explains why mazda engineered things and what can be done to improve or maintain what they did to get the most out of your engine. It also has good diagrams you can use as reference. Building a 20b is not easy for the unknowledgeable like me so I like to acquire all the info I can get. Next for me is getting the t56 magnum and making space for that! Cut and shape, cut and shape lol

Joker_andthe_thief

has this build been started or is it 6 pages of talk?

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

Depends what you mean by started. I have spent 5k on parts so far, so imo its very much started.

I have a motor, torn it apart, and am in the process of cleaning it. Next up is porting everything and then painting the irons. After that, assembling the block.

I'm not good at welding, nor do I have much experience routing lines, pipes, and things, so I am going to take my car to a professional to get everything put together and the downpipe fabricated.

Joker_andthe_thief

:\ what's the shop rate? $95/hr?

I say borrow or rent a crane buy a resent socket set and go to town to just remove the renny should take a day and you'll learn so much more than just reading on fours the tranny bell housing is 6 bolts and the engine mounts are 2 bolts

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

I think taking it out wouldn't be so bad. Maybe even putting it in would be terrible but being my first build and my first time digging into a lot of stuff I can easilly see it going south. I wI'll consider it but my friend who has been helping me with general no rotary stuff will be off to med school in august. Don't think I'll have the time to do it all by then nor the money.

On another note does anyone know how long I can store a built motor? How long does petroleum and wd40 last?

Captain Pepper

your turbo for cheaper? im probably going with the same one. BorgWarner S300SX3 -66mm Turbo - Mike Turbo

Joker_andthe_thief

WD dries up in my opinion,,, get a garden sprayer fill it with wd40 and tranny fluid pump it up tighten the nozzle as much as possible,,, and mist the motors with spark plugs out mist inside the chamber

LSXREX

Do not use wd40. It just displaces water. If it's a long term pres, then I would suggest filling the cylinders (cavities in your case) with just cheap motor oil. Not all the way to the top but a pretty good amount. If it's short term (<year) just pour in a small amount of oil and turn it by hand. EOther way your engine will benefit from being turned a few dozen times every few weeks.

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

I think its the same one. I got mine for 575 + polished compressor (75) + ceramic coated turbine housing (75), .91 a/r. It's a proven, cheap BW turbo so you can't go wrong imo. Can always stay with the size and move up in technology to make a little more power later.

Captain Pepper

yea i wasnt so sure about going journal instead of ball but my buddy and my wallet have talked me into it.

Joker_andthe_thief

Also journal is cheaper and easier to rebuild from what I understand lol

Joker_andthe_thief

bump for progress?

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

Sure thing.

Recently my 6 year old laptop got very slow and funky. I had previously budgeted a performance computer build with my brother for around $800, so that is where January's progress went haha. It had also been super cold here in OH (single digits or less during the day) and I wasn't really too anxious to go continue cleaning. I had however brought my rotors home to finish.

Speaking of the rotors, apex and corner seals came out with some effort. The apex groove spec'd out well (however with used seals only so far). The side seals started to come out, but the middle sections are seized in the grooves. Going to get those in the purple power once again to try and loosen them up, otherwise I may need new rotors. ****.

Plan is to spend a few more days cleaning up the rotor housings and then port them. After that I will move to the iron housings, as their grooves are gunked up quite a bit and will take loads of time.

9k's favorite dude got back to me finally. My Rx8performance 13b-rew mount and high flow oil coolers are on their way. I wanted the cannister trio in polished aluminum, so I will have to wait longer for that. This was ordered in November, however I told him upfront I was in no rush.

Finally, I messaged Xcessive racing to try and get a package deal on a few things and got no response. So I bought a wing instead, because I am one of those guys. (Email got caught in my spam filter)

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

I do have a question actually. My local builders/tuner suggested microtech for my EMS. Since that is likely what they are most familiar with, that may be the route I take. A few pages back it was recommended to NOT use the X4 ignition box from microtech. Is it possible to easily use the D585 coils with said EMS? I was hoping to have as much of this build be plug and play as possible so that the car will have less than 3 months of downtime when I finally take it in.

Joker_andthe_thief

hey you need this in your life,,, it is designed to cut right through 300* to 500* baked on grease I used it to clean my intake manni before painting it

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

The parts from rx8performance came in yesterday and man are they beautiful. Shipping was fast too. excited for those trio cannister to come.

Joker thanks for the recommendation. The cleaning is close to done I'm mostly trying to get the side seals loosened up. I probably won't need more product besides .5 micron sandpaper

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Microtech is garbage dude. I've seen motors get wiped out because of their intermittent e-shaft sensor signal issue.

If your tuner can use a Microtech, but can't learn to use something like an Adaptronic or Haltech in less than a day, then it's probably best you take it somewhere else.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I think you are confused about the trigger problem.. The Microtech has issues....but trigger isn't one of them. Haltech on the other hand has huge trigger issues

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

Ah the great trials begin...

So first things first, one of the rotor housings has a bit of pitting around the coolant seal areas. It is not deep by any means, but enough to feel it ever so slightly. I read on the rx7club that jb weld and silicon sealant is a viable solution. Since this is my first engine I was wondering what everyone else recommends. I was hoping to reuse the housing as everything else is in spec. With some light sanding, some of the pitted areas even feel smooth.

The second issue I have is one I could not find a solution to elsewhere. The inside of my front cover has some surface cracks. Can anyone explain this issue and how detrimental it may be? (Was not wise enough to take a picture sorry).

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Likely the "Cracks" you see in the cover are just casting marks. I've seen a lot like that...they look like cracks but they aren't

The housing should be ok...a lot of rebuild rulers use Hylomar for the coolant seals...it is supposed to work for that.