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Thanks! You are absolutely right. I have done it all by wire wheel atm and boy is it work! I'm sure if I find a few drill heads stepping to finer grits I could convince myself to do it. Looking into it, all the 3M radial brushes seem to be around 20 bucks a piece. Did you use something similar?
Thanks! You are absolutely right. I have done it all by wire wheel atm and boy is it work! I'm sure if I find a few drill heads stepping to finer grits I could convince myself to do it. Looking into it, all the 3M radial brushes seem to be around 20 bucks a piece. Did you use something similar?
How I did it on the DIY poor man in the garage scale....
First remember wear some breathing protection when sanding aluminum!!
A Dremal tool is your friend for all the nooks and crannies.
Then sand in stages 200, 400, 800, 1000 and 2000 grit.
Knock down all the casting... It's gotta be smooth, if not it'll show in the final buffing.
Final step will be a buffing wheel w/white compound.
I bought everything from HF.
Google polishing aluminum, plenty of info to help you out.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
do yourself a favor and just send it to a professional polisher
We polish stainless and I've done a few aluminum jobs myself, the most recent being a Renesis LIM (ports only, not exterior). A pro has all the right stuff to do the job efficiently. The mess/health factor alone warrants letting someone else handle it. The fine grit gets into everything.
Looking good. Are you going with the rx8 throttle body? If so, have you figured out what adapter you might use? I have tried to contact FFE regarding the fit of their rew to 90mm adapter, but haven't received a response.
I am going to go with the FD Throttle Body. I am one of the old fashioned drive by cable people. I plan on giving up Traction control/Dynamic stability control. In my experience, it has been more of a hindrance than a plus due to how slowly it reacts (the DSC not the throttle body). I am hoping to find a way around losing cruise control, but if I do so be it.
I would think at that angle of attack is is likely stalled. It looks similar to the APR wing profile...they have setup instructions for there wing on the site
Probably not anytime soon, but I'll be doing something on the track eventually.
I'll check it out. I haven't adjusted it yet, I actually just got home from picking it up. There are only 3 settings to choose from so that's all I get! It is very similar to the APR design.
And we are all entitled to our opinions, I just happen to like this style. One could also say spending so much on a car is dumb. I don't think it is, but who am I to say what's right for everyone?
Wow, that's one kite... Are you going to be doing Time Attack?
Not with that thing. The height makes it illegal for a LOT of sanctioning bodies. It also is just a huge air brake. It's a product that mostly drifters buy to look cool.
You are correct, you cannot exceed the roof line in most circumstances. It definitely slows the car down, but the force has to be put somewhere and the only direction left is down. But I guess you could say I am just getting caught up in "theory". Handling has changed slightly, I can't produce data because I really don't have a way to take it.
Yes, similar results in handling could have been achieved in other ways. However, if I can break traction with 169ftlbs (max) then eliminating as much lift as possible isn't a bad thing for when the motor is twice as strong.
I think I will call you out on this Arca_ex. Sure, it is probably not the most efficient spoiler in the world, but saying that it is JUST a huge air brake is wrong.
However, if I can break traction with 169ftlbs (max) then eliminating as much lift as possible isn't a bad thing for when the motor is twice as strong.
At what speed can you break traction? I believe that by the time (speed wise) that a properly setup wing really starts doing its job, you wouldn't be able to break traction with that torque even without the wing. As it sits right now, I'd have to agree with Arca. Too steep of an angle man.
The traction breaks when shifting 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd during full pulls. Obviously my sub-par street tires don't help the situation but reducing lift in the rear end is never a bad thing. Yes, the wing is not a solution, just a step to improve how the car looks and handles.
Here is a picture of the APR wing that this wing is similar too.
I have a hunch the decks' shapes are exactly the same, or at least close to it. If anyone really doubts, I can go measure.
Now lets address the AOA. If you look at the APR wing, you see the angle of the leading edge is far different than the trailing edge. The pictures of my car are deceiving because you cannot see the leading edge of the wing very well. The side plates are also making it look like it has a larger AOA than it actually does. I had adjusted those at a later time than the pics were taken as well.
I think this discussion may end up being a bit much for my thread. I would be obliged if we moved it to a separate thread if anyone really wants to dive into the specifics.
Iizuka, Dannobre was actually the one who commented on the AOA.
Wtf, if you're breaking traction with 169 ft-lb torque on a 2 - 3 shift then your tires must be total sh-t. The wing is only just starting to work at that speed range and likely has little impact. The AOA os more than obvious in the pic of your car. As Dan stated, it's stalled in that position.
Then again maybe the reason you're spinning tires so hard is because of that barn door anchor drag on the trunk
The wing is stalled out. The downforce it may or may not be creating is not worth the amount of drag from a lap time perspective. It would probably have a negative effect at a drag strip as well. Not to mention that the whole point of having a 3D airfoil like that is so that it can be mounted low and near the trunk lid. The wing is for looks, and that's fine, but I would probably steer clear of claiming that it has any performance benefits.
Also like Team said, if you can break traction on a 2-3 shift then your tires must be like 600 treadwear chinese all seasons.
Trailing to leading (highest point) is 3 degrees. Trailing to leading (lowest point) is 18 degrees. Currently. Not in the pic. It has been in this position since 4/2
Exedy Twin disc still hasn't arrived. Also, does anyone have any tips for removing super stuck side seals? Still haven't got those out. The rest of the rotors are in spec, it would be a shame to waste them.
