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I've a similar scenario, and considered two options:
- Opt. 1: The below (see link) or similar tool. It'll mangle the nut, but you don't care ...you're replacing it; but may work.
- Opt. 2: Fabricate a custom tool.
The below tool worked in my case, so I didn't have to resort to fabricating a tool.
Alright, I’ve had a stroke of luck. Noticing that the -8AN fittings are 22mm (7/8”) I had an epiphany; my O2 sensor socket is also 22mm (7/8”) and was able to get just enough bite on it to break it loose. No damage to the fittings either, not that it really mattered, but should be home free now as far as installing the 5/8” barb style drain setup.
You could break off the fitting and then use a deep socket to remove the nut part of the female fitting. And then a different socket to remove the NPT to -AN male adapter off the turbo center section.
You could break off the fitting and then use a deep socket to remove the nut part of the female fitting. And then a different socket to remove the NPT to -AN male adapter off the turbo center section.
My head was going there for sure. The O2 sensor socket worked perfect, luckily it was a 45° fitting on the bottom of the turbo, socket was just able to grab.
Happy to see you are fixing the last of the glitches of the new engine swap. After all this time (and glitches) you must really be itching to get out, turn up the boost and really drive it.
PS, winter is coming................................it's only 2 months until white stuff season (possibly)
Happy to see you are fixing the last of the glitches of the new engine swap. After all this time (and glitches) you must really be itching to get out, turn up the boost and really drive it.
PS, winter is coming................................it's only 2 months until white stuff season (possibly)
Originally Posted by wannawankel
Winter means denser air!
Hehe, Hey! It's August I don't wanna hear the "W" word!
Yes you bet, I've had it out for a couple cruises for sure, but was hesitant to really drive it until I get to the bottom of these issues. Engine currently has just under 800kms (500 mi). Assuming these correct the problems I was seeing and I can continue with break-in/tuning I'll be very content and consider this swap a great success. Definitely very happy with the workmanship from everyone involved; but again, fingers crossed that these relatively easy fixes have the engine running exactly how it's meant to.
It was inevitable and not unexpected to pull this much work off in a relatively short time span and see a few problems arise (didn't get engine until April and we had it first started by the end of the month). One thing I can say though, at least I'm working all the kinks out during this Covid summer and not missing a bunch of the events we had planned prior to everything getting cancelled.
If estimated delivery times are to be believed I should have all the parts I need to put the car back together by the end of the week.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 08-10-2020 at 12:36 PM.
Hey, how do you like the Exedy? I saw you purchased one in your thread (#73 & #82). Curious about driving impression. Not aware of any members using Exedy, OS-G or ORC. Any experience shared would be greatly appreciated. Considering for se3p. Your REW build looks solid, thanks!
Hey, how do you like the Exedy? I saw you purchased one in your thread (#73 & #82). Curious about driving impression. Not aware of any members using Exedy, OS-G or ORC. Any experience shared would be greatly appreciated. Considering for se3p. Your REW build looks solid, thanks!
Hey thanks man!
I went with the Exedy because I wanted to have a less harsh engagement for street use (compared to a single disc) while having it's 511ft/lb torque capacity. I only have comparison to the stock clutch so I'm not basing this off a ton of experience. The engagement is decently smooth, once it wants to start clamping it really wants to clamp though, it definitely took me a few drives to get used to. I find the catch point with this clutch requires the pedal to be ~60-70% all the way out compared to the stock clutch that seemed to start grabbing around ~25% of the way out. I find it has less room for error on the catch point and you need to be a bit more precise with the pedal. Now that I'm more familiar with it I'm pretty happy.. My garage has become overrun with "stuff" this summer since I'm planning to build a new shed in my yard. If I want to park the car in the garage (and I do) I really need to finesse the the clutch petal and slowly move the car into place because it's just that damn packed and I'm not finding any issue doing this (same goes for reversing).
Everything mentioned above is from stopped and getting into motion. Shifting through the gears during cruise is very comparable to stock, I really didn't notice much difference here.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 08-11-2020 at 04:57 PM.
Got the Freelance regulator installed. Compressor discharge is just sitting on the couplers for now just to test access to the pressure dial and viewing of the pressure gauge:
My fuel injectors should be returned/delivered today (all 4 tested fine). My 5/8" barbs for CHRA and Front cover should be showing up today also. I already have my 5/8" Vibrant oil compatible, silicon, heater core hose cut to length waiting for those. Also have a DEI heat sleeve supposed to be showing up Friday to cover the oil drain line. I ordered 3ft of the heat sleeve so I'll be cutting it to fit the drain and the using some of the remaining stuff to sleeve up my oil feed regulator assembly. It is the velcro on stuff.
That open Vacuum nipple has been capped, so things are looking good to have it all back together this weekend. Fingers crossed this is the end of my issues and I can get the last of my break-in miles done
Looks good. If there anyway to move that gauge further away from turbo or other hot parts using fittings from Home Depot or Canadian Tire (whatever you weirdos have), it may help yours last longer than mine... (which was about a day or two before the plastic gauge distorted)..... Luckily I can still read it and its done a great job halving my turbo feed pressure.
Looks good. If there anyway to move that gauge further away from turbo or other hot parts using fittings from Home Depot or Canadian Tire (whatever you weirdos have), it may help yours last longer than mine... (which was about a day or two before the plastic gauge distorted)..... Luckily I can still read it and its done a great job halving my turbo feed pressure.
The only real option I'd have is to get a couple more male/female AN couplings and raise it higher up off the turbo. My intent is to wrap the fittings with the leftover DEI heat sleeve. To prevent a monstrosity tower of fittings I should have enough left over to cut it up and wrap the gauge body too. Thanks for the heads up, I was under the assumption yours was fine in that location.
Fuel Injectors back from cleaning/testing. The ID1000's were pumping out approx 950cc/min and the ID2000's approx 2200CC/min. Came back looking brand new and with new Orings.
Everything is back together, just need to install the oil drain and heat wrapping then fill the engine back up with oil. I'll be doing that tonight and giving it a start to check for any oil/fuel leaks. Assuming that's good we'll see what idle looks like as far as smoking and stability with that vacuum leak capped off. Is it weird that I'm nervous as hell??
Question: the turbo has been sitting now for almost 2 weeks with no oil in it; do I need to put a few ounces of oil into the CHRA prior to start-up or is that only for brand new turbos?
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 08-14-2020 at 11:17 AM.
...
Question: the turbo has been sitting now for almost 2 weeks with no oil in it; do I need to put a few ounces of oil into the CHRA prior to start-up or is that only for brand new turbos?
Good question. Whenever I've opened the oil system, after closing up, and refilling I bump the starter ~2 secs two or three times...to recharge the turbo /oil system...before starting the engine.
I hold my foot down on acc. pedal while cranking it over for 10 seconds or so then let foot off pedal so it starts .
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
That only works with the OE ecu, glad I’m not the only one ...
.
I believe in the Eugene software there is a deflood setting. I know if I hold my accelerator down while cranking it will cut fuel injection. Just trying to remember where that setting is...
Regardless it doesn't prevent start-up, I normally need to hold pedal down just because of how rich it's running there is usually enough fuel in the engine to start. I just disconnected my ignition harness and cranked it a few times to prime oil.
@strokercharged95gt What PSI are you seeing on your regulator gauge at hot idle? During cranking I am seeing 0PSI. At hot idle I'm only seeing 10PSI?????? At cold starts I am seeing 60-70psi and it quickly drops after a few mins of idle. I'm wondering if the gauge I got with my regulator is not reading properly.... My stock Rx8 dash gauge shows the regular oil pressure (2-3 ticks above half) that it's always shown. I would assume if the turbo was getting that low of oil pressure I would have come across some major issues by now?
@strokercharged95gt What PSI are you seeing on your regulator gauge at hot idle? During cranking I am seeing 0PSI. At hot idle I'm only seeing 10PSI?????? At cold starts I am seeing 60-70psi and it quickly drops after a few mins of idle. I'm wondering if the gauge I got with my regulator is not reading properly.... My stock Rx8 dash gauge shows the regular oil pressure (2-3 ticks above half) that it's always shown. I would assume if the turbo was getting that low of oil pressure I would have come across some major issues by now?
I get 60 psi at startup and it drops to about 30 psi at hot idle. Its about half of what my engine oil pressure is (idle 120 cold, idle 60 hot). That oil dash gauge might be a dummy, not sure you can rely on it for pressure readings, it may just be a simple on/off switch (like if it reads more than 5 psi it will read max pressure, less than 5 psi it reads 0).
I would be more worried that your engine oil pressure could be that low. If you open up the restrictor on the turbo feed and its still reads 10 psi, either its a bad gauge or your engine has real low pressure.....
What worries me is your are getting 60-70 psi on startup, which seems low unless your are running super thin oil. I get about 120 psi on startup with 10w-40 in Florida. Lets hope its a bad gauge. What weight oil are your using again?
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 08-17-2020 at 11:16 AM.
08-08-2020, 07:57 AM
