Arca's Time Attack Build Thread (13b-REW Swap)
03-30-2014, 06:19 PM
#152
Must....not.....fap.....
Just to chime in on the lexan windows:
-Don't make the rear side windows out of lexan because you won't save any weight. The stock glass is very thin & light.
-For the front windows, make an exact replica of the glass ones and slide the lexan up into the track used for the glass window. Get a piece of 3/4 balsa wood (or anything really light weight) and stick it on the inside between the metal and lexan to secure it (with screws).
-For the rear window, again, make an exact replica of the glass one first. The easiest way to make an exact replica is to get waxed paper similar to what body shops use, and cut/trace it right over the window. Place that template on the lexan, and cut it out. Then find the centre point of the roof, centre point of the trunk, and centre point of the lexan window then line them all up and start riveting! I found running a strip of 2 sided tape along the opening of the window made life a lot easier for me.
Hope that helps you guys!
Just to chime in on the lexan windows:
-Don't make the rear side windows out of lexan because you won't save any weight. The stock glass is very thin & light.
-For the front windows, make an exact replica of the glass ones and slide the lexan up into the track used for the glass window. Get a piece of 3/4 balsa wood (or anything really light weight) and stick it on the inside between the metal and lexan to secure it (with screws).
-For the rear window, again, make an exact replica of the glass one first. The easiest way to make an exact replica is to get waxed paper similar to what body shops use, and cut/trace it right over the window. Place that template on the lexan, and cut it out. Then find the centre point of the roof, centre point of the trunk, and centre point of the lexan window then line them all up and start riveting! I found running a strip of 2 sided tape along the opening of the window made life a lot easier for me.
Hope that helps you guys!
Last edited by ScubaSteve8; 03-30-2014 at 06:23 PM.
03-30-2014, 10:08 PM
#153
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Great thread! I wish you luck with the build, and out on the track.
You can make 450 at the wheels with a street port REW and something like a GT35R at 15-16psi. But for a track only car, do a Bridgeport and bigger turbo, then turn the boost down to get the power you want.
03-30-2014, 11:20 PM
#155
Great thread! I wish you luck with the build, and out on the track.
You can make 450 at the wheels with a street port REW and something like a GT35R at 15-16psi. But for a track only car, do a Bridgeport and bigger turbo, then turn the boost down to get the power you want.
You can make 450 at the wheels with a street port REW and something like a GT35R at 15-16psi. But for a track only car, do a Bridgeport and bigger turbo, then turn the boost down to get the power you want.
Yep that is a GTX3582r and I will be using the ATP Turbo T4 divided turbine housing with 1.06A/R. It will be plenty for my needs. My engine builder likes street ports the best for road course, and he can build a mean motor. Mine will be running a rather large street port and he believes that with my overall setup I should be able to get close to 600 at the wheels if I really wanted, but I will likely never run it much above 500 (MAYBE 550 if I am like tenths of a second from podium or something) and that is only for Global Time Attack events where HP is unlimited.
The GTX35r seemed like the best choice for me for power goals and it will spool very quickly and have great throttle response which was my biggest concern with going to a turbo setup.
Also I will be running E85 but will have a flex fuel sensor so the Adaptronic standalone will adjust for winter blend or if I run out and need to use 91 pump.
03-31-2014, 12:14 AM
#156
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Yep that is a GTX3582r and I will be using the ATP Turbo T4 divided turbine housing with 1.06A/R. It will be plenty for my needs. My engine builder likes street ports the best for road course, and he can build a mean motor. Mine will be running a rather large street port and he believes that with my overall setup I should be able to get close to 600 at the wheels if I really wanted, but I will likely never run it much above 500 (MAYBE 550 if I am like tenths of a second from podium or something) and that is only for Global Time Attack events where HP is unlimited.
The GTX35r seemed like the best choice for me for power goals and it will spool very quickly and have great throttle response which was my biggest concern with going to a turbo setup.
Also I will be running E85 but will have a flex fuel sensor so the Adaptronic standalone will adjust for winter blend or if I run out and need to use 91 pump.
The GTX35r seemed like the best choice for me for power goals and it will spool very quickly and have great throttle response which was my biggest concern with going to a turbo setup.
Also I will be running E85 but will have a flex fuel sensor so the Adaptronic standalone will adjust for winter blend or if I run out and need to use 91 pump.
Nothing wrong with your plan, it should work very well. Of course it all depends on execution, but you're right about the hp potential. 600 might be a bit out of reach with that turbo, but 550 should be possible. I'd plan on a motor replacement or two per season though.
I haven't driven a GTX35 car yet, but the standard GT35r spools plenty fast. REW's spin things up quickly.
03-31-2014, 01:16 AM
#157
Nothing wrong with your plan, it should work very well. Of course it all depends on execution, but you're right about the hp potential. 600 might be a bit out of reach with that turbo, but 550 should be possible. I'd plan on a motor replacement or two per season though.
I haven't driven a GTX35 car yet, but the standard GT35r spools plenty fast. REW's spin things up quickly.
I haven't driven a GTX35 car yet, but the standard GT35r spools plenty fast. REW's spin things up quickly.
Yeah I'm hoping for one season out of an engine running strictly at 450WHP and 8000RPM redline, anything after that is a bonus. I'm aiming to have a backup motor on standby like maybe 6 months after the car has hit the track. My engine builder built motors that have been running strong on and off the track for longer periods of time than that at similar power levels, as well as a lot of super high HP drag cars that have made tons of passes. He says if we can keep coolant, oil and charge temps under control and feed it enough fuel, I should be able to make it through a season without catastrophic failure.
The engine, in addition to the large street port, will be running a dry sump with 120PSI oil pressure regulator, have a balanced rotating assembly, oiling and coolant jacket mods, and will most likely be studded.
Here's to hoping for the best and preparing for the worst.
Last edited by Arca_ex; 03-31-2014 at 01:21 AM.
03-31-2014, 02:43 AM
#158
Must....not.....fap.....
Just to chime in on the lexan windows:
-Don't make the rear side windows out of lexan because you won't save any weight. The stock glass is very thin & light.
-For the front windows, make an exact replica of the glass ones and slide the lexan up into the track used for the glass window. Get a piece of 3/4 balsa wood (or anything really light weight) and stick it on the inside between the metal and lexan to secure it (with screws).
-For the rear window, again, make an exact replica of the glass one first. The easiest way to make an exact replica is to get waxed paper similar to what body shops use, and cut/trace it right over the window. Place that template on the lexan, and cut it out. Then find the centre point of the roof, centre point of the trunk, and centre point of the lexan window then line them all up and start riveting! I found running a strip of 2 sided tape along the opening of the window made life a lot easier for me.
Hope that helps you guys!
Just to chime in on the lexan windows:
-Don't make the rear side windows out of lexan because you won't save any weight. The stock glass is very thin & light.
-For the front windows, make an exact replica of the glass ones and slide the lexan up into the track used for the glass window. Get a piece of 3/4 balsa wood (or anything really light weight) and stick it on the inside between the metal and lexan to secure it (with screws).
-For the rear window, again, make an exact replica of the glass one first. The easiest way to make an exact replica is to get waxed paper similar to what body shops use, and cut/trace it right over the window. Place that template on the lexan, and cut it out. Then find the centre point of the roof, centre point of the trunk, and centre point of the lexan window then line them all up and start riveting! I found running a strip of 2 sided tape along the opening of the window made life a lot easier for me.
Hope that helps you guys!
04-01-2014, 08:25 AM
#159
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04-12-2014, 10:05 AM
#162
I do have an REW. It's out of a '93 RX-7 and has about 40k miles, I think it had a coolant seal failure or something like that.
It is currently at my engine builders place (I bought it from him) getting rebuilt. His name is Cesar, he's from Puerto Rico and has been in the rotary game for decades. He does all his business purely off of word of mouth and reputation, when I was asking around about local builders his name kept coming up as the go to guy. I cruised over to his place to check out the motor and was floored by his multiple 3 and 4 rotor projects he had going on... as well has a monster bridgeport FD with a turbo the size of my torso...
The things I do know about my motor:
Massive Street Port
Dowel Pinned
Studded
Oiling/Coolant Jacket Mods
And that's all I know. I won't even know what seals are in it, but with his reputation and his builds that I've seen, I don't care either haha. It should pull like a freight train and be able to stand up to track abuse.
In other news, this stuff arrived.
RX8Performance REW Swap Mount Kit
PTP Lava Rock Turbo Blanket (Turbo will be REALLY close to the lower intake manifold... going to wrap all cold charge pipe, throttle body, UIM and LIM with DEI reflect-a-gold as well.) Also will wrap down-pipe in the DEI Titanium wrap, and wrap the exhaust that is close to the transmission and the rear diff to try and keep them from heating up. Exhaust will be full 4" all the way back with a Magnaflow round muffler and single exit with a slight pie cut turn down. Wastegates will be dumped to atmosphere.
04-15-2014, 03:33 AM
#167
Uncontrollable drifter
04-16-2014, 09:37 AM
#170
I will use a stock FD idle air control valve.
Maybe you missed the part where I am swapping in a 13b-REW and using a wire in Adaptronic and not a plug and play?
Last edited by Arca_ex; 04-16-2014 at 09:49 AM.
05-14-2014, 02:58 AM
#174
So, updates.
Got an exciting picture from my engine builder today. Just a few more things to be done and then I can pick it up tomorrow.
The shop I am working with is making progress on a pretty trick dry sump setup that I will be running.
I am also happy to announce that I will be working with an awesome local company:
Full Function Engineering (Full Function Engineering | FFE Store)
The products of theirs that I will be incorporating in the build are:
Primary Fuel Rail
Secondary 4 Injector Fuel Rail
FD Hall Effect Trigger Kit
FD Oil Filter Pedestal
FFE Pressure Transducers for Fuel/Oil pressure to be fed into the Adaptronic ECU.
And yet another awesome local company that is lending me a hand:
Injector Dynamics (Injector Dynamics - The standard for tuners and car builders worldwide.)
I'm using six of their ID 1000 injectors, utilizing flex fuel adjustments and the three stage injection that the Adaptronic ECU offers.
Anyways, I haven't done a whole lot to the car lately besides finalize plans for electrical and fueling systems and acquire more parts, I've been settling into a new job, but now that the motor is done it's time to get cracking... still lots of things to be done.
Got an exciting picture from my engine builder today. Just a few more things to be done and then I can pick it up tomorrow.
The shop I am working with is making progress on a pretty trick dry sump setup that I will be running.
I am also happy to announce that I will be working with an awesome local company:
Full Function Engineering (Full Function Engineering | FFE Store)
The products of theirs that I will be incorporating in the build are:
Primary Fuel Rail
Secondary 4 Injector Fuel Rail
FD Hall Effect Trigger Kit
FD Oil Filter Pedestal
FFE Pressure Transducers for Fuel/Oil pressure to be fed into the Adaptronic ECU.
And yet another awesome local company that is lending me a hand:
Injector Dynamics (Injector Dynamics - The standard for tuners and car builders worldwide.)
I'm using six of their ID 1000 injectors, utilizing flex fuel adjustments and the three stage injection that the Adaptronic ECU offers.
Anyways, I haven't done a whole lot to the car lately besides finalize plans for electrical and fueling systems and acquire more parts, I've been settling into a new job, but now that the motor is done it's time to get cracking... still lots of things to be done.
