What Im thinking now is that.

They're "the one" who prepared all the paperwork. (Deals, Options, and the FINAL PRICE)

They're "the professional" in selling cars. Not me. they told me there's rebates, so I believe them. right ?

Im not a lawyer. I dont know anything about contracts and its "fine print's hidden meaning", but I think that, I signed all the "papers", they let me drove the car off the lot. 300 something miles on the engine now, that "should" means everything is fine, right ? Now they're telling me all these bull ??

Put this simple, This is my car now. and I dont think anybody has the right to take it away from me (unless Im not paying MAC)

If they really tries to be an "a$$" and retract the thing from MAC, I dont care I will use 10x of my 8's money to hire an Lawyer.

I will just ignore them for a while and see if they dare to call again.

 

How much did you pay for it. If you payed a little profit, they may just eat it. Trust me in this. If the dealer is part of an auto group such as Sonic, their attourney will eat your's alive. They pay their attourneys millions of dollars a year. If they retract the contract, and then you don't respond, they will hook it and bring back to the dealer. Use caution in how you handle it. I was the car business 8 years. I have had this happen before. Sometimes they make mistakes. Just like a pro-baseball player, they mis the ball ever now and then. If hey didn't make any money on the deal. Trust me, they would rather just have the car back.

You best option is call the General Manager of the dealership. Don't speak with the Sales Manager. He is **** compared to the GM.

 

I guess there are greedy Lawyers out there who will "handle" this matter for me if they see the $$$$$$

Because either way, its NOT my fault.

The worst on my side is that, they can take the car back, I drove it already and it passed the 100 miles mark, no way they can sell it as new, they will lose at least 2 K on it.

My first post has a link of how much did I pay for the thing.

 

They can sell it as new as long as it hasn't been titled. Many cars are sold more than once before they are titled.

Looking at what you paid for it, plan on having a problem.

 

Well instead of being a complete *** about everything, you could just go to the dealer and see what he has to say. Don't sign anything, maybe you can get the $2k difference in upgraded options or free service or something like that. That way you don't burn any bridges or have to worry about any other crap in the process. Remember, you have the upper hand here so it is up to them to make an offer to you that you agree is reasonable.

 

100 miles is nothing. Lots of "new" cars are sold with more miles than that. Depending on the state it can be as much as 600 miles and still be sold as "new".

I think his point is that what he sees as "reasonable" is what he agreed to pay for the car. He said he wouldn't have bought the car if it cost more than what he paid. I don't see how he's being an "***" by wanting them to stick to the terms of the agreement.

And why is the dealer going to want to give him $2,000 in other stuff? That's no different than writing off the $2,000 to begin with. $2,000 here, $2,000 there, it all works out to the same amount.

 

I don't see how he's being an *** either. That was the deal he agreed to. If someone fucked up at the dealership then that PERSON should be held responsible, and the money taken out of his/her check.

 

If you are somewhere near Utah . . .

Offer for a Full Refund of the price.

I bought my Shinka from Freeway Motors (http://www.freewaymazda.com) for $28850. Contact the internet sales guy (Jon Chaplow)..

I received $1000 Customer cash (from Mazda) and $1000 MAC cash (from Mazda Credit).

The rebate runs until 7/1/2005.

You do not have to return the car. If they signed the paperwork, they HAVE to honor it - even if they take a loss. If you can get over to Salt Lake City Utah, call Jon, arrange for a car (with the rebates) and let them return the full amount for the car you purchased.

-Glenn
vortarian

 

BTW, on that last post, he'll sell you a car off a local dealer's lot, you just have to sign the paperwork & pay what they pay. They're pretty good about it.

I would stick with the posts, don't go anywhere near that dealership, and keep the contracts out of your car. You have to keep those somewhere so they don't disappear.

Once the car is titled, you should be in the clear.

It might also be worth your time to file a complaint with Mazda USA.

It sounds to me like the dealer is only going to eat their profits, so I don't think they'll come after your car. They still make money:
On Dealer hold back (1%)
Increased interest rate (depends on state - don't know new york) - yes, they really do bump the interest rate above what they get from the financer - could be anywhere from 0 to 4%.
Better stock next year - The fact that the car is sold increases their dealor allocation for the next buying season.

On the other hand, if they are willing to sign a contract that gives you 5% better interest rate, you could end up saving money - depending on how long you'll hold the loan. I wouldn't be afraid to let them fax you the new contract for your review, you might be able to save money. But certainly don't consider it unless you are saving a considerable amount of money.

Lastly, if they do come up with a better contract that you are interested in, have a friend drive you to the dealorship, and go with only your ID & pen. Don't bring any of the originals or the car and make sure they sign the new paperwork (and be an *** about it).

Remember, if they had "accidently" made $2K too much on the car, most dealors wouldn't have contacted you to fix it - and likely wouldn't have worked with you if you had caught it.

 

Ok, I got another call from the dealer about it.

The guy was really nice, I guess he was being "b1tch" from the F&I lady alot or whatsoever.

He said I dont really have to do anything , if I do come and re-do the thing (meaning if I eat that 2K myself), Im "doing the right thing"

I was about to laugh my a$$ off when I heard that.

Ok, well, I guess I need to be a bad guy once.

I seriously dont think that a "brand new contract" can save me more than 2000 bucks, since I really dont think they will offer me something like that. and the 5% thinggy he mention was for "leasing", not financing.

Anyway, I said I will call back tomorrow and give him an answer. but like I said, I prefer to be a "bad guy"

 

He probably read this thread and knew he couldn't get away with it so decided to appeal to your sensitive side

 

Hmm maybe.

but ... I just ...

Joined the Dark Side ....

 

definitely dont drive the car there unless you want them to take it back. I once was trying to buy a honda civic and after a week the financing fell through. The dealership asked me to come in and "work a new deal" on a cheaper model and when I arrived to talk to them they blocked the car in and treated me like a criminal. Said I had signed a paper saying that if the fiinancing fell through the car would have to come back. I put over 500 miles on it and had it a week.

Tremor

 

This is an EXTREMELY common SCAM! It IS ILLEGAL! Simply threaten (and actually do conctact) to contact your state attorney general's office. YOU have ALREADY paid with your taxes for a lawyer who's SOLE purpose is to prosecute crimes such as these...

Let me clue you in to something... you don't have to actually 'have' a lawyer until the opposing party calls your bluff...

 

As I said in my previous post, I do not think you are obligated to do anything. That said, I would suggest finding another dealer to service your 8.

 

Theres no point for me to go back.

Yes, I will find another dealer to service my 8.

Thanks for all the input guys !

 

congrats on the purchase......so now that its over with can you tell us?

 

There's no such thing, you protected your investment just like they do every day If you made the same mistake, they would have told you to go take a flying leap.

BTW, Welcome Sith Lord Nycgps

 

So what was the final outcome here? Did they keep petering you or give up? Inquiring minds want to know! :D

 

I'm sure this dealer routinely calls people up and says, "You paid too much for this car. Come in and we will write up a new contract and sell you the car for $1000 less."

I suspect the "rebate" was a low-ball effort which they took the extra mile, waiting unitl AFTER the sale to tell you it's really going to cost you more than they told you. Most delaers do this before the sale, but the game is the same.