Aaaaarrrrgggghhhhhh! Can someone get this thread to where the new post actually get started at the end or bottom again?

 

vIce^gRip

Bastage,marsredr100 and I are going to meet at Moroso next Friday If you want to come back down

 

Follow-up to the S/C install.
In hind-sight, I may have invested into Paul @ MazMart's new improved flow water-pump, but I had no idea that my stocker was crapping out as my car has always run cool and never gave any obvious signs of failure. Once I actually could see the pump it was quite apparent it was on its last leg. I still very well may jump on that pump as cooler and less friction running engine will last longer.
On a side note about aftermarket radiators... Cam said that they noticed the car ran hotter when they used the Koyo. Cam reverted back to stock and wants to run more test to make sure it was not just a faulty system, but said that stock with 15% coolant, a bottle of Red Line's Water Wetter & water is the perfect match. That is what I am running. I also added 2 ounces of wetter into the heat exchanger system to help keep cool, disperse heat better & protect against corrosion.

Burnt Coils: Cam has you drill holes in the coil mount plate to hopefully help keep the coils cooler.


Failing Water-Pump: The right hand side is the bottom but you can see the top bleeder was squirting too.


New Pump Installed:


Ahhh... the Beauty of it all! Looks great and Drives even better!

 

Wow, those coils look bad. I'd be very surprised if you weren't getting misfires. Enjoy the car man, looks awesome.

 

Where is the MAF sensor mounted? I cant see it mounted anywhere in the air intake pipe? I know your running the Interceptor which doesn't need the MAF but doesn't the stock PCM still need the MAF to function properly?

 

You are correct...
I do NOT have the MAF installed. Pettit is CNCing a new air flow inlet chamber that will have the MAF mount for the stock sensor. It will be released when the final Flash is ready. Other s/c users have drilled the inlet tube and mounted the MAF, which gets rid of the x-mas tree lights in the dash, but I survived the dragon without it and the DSC.
I just choose to be patient & wait for the Flash, the new Inlet Tube and the Stage III Under Pulleys!

The drive ability of the car is unchanged. And once it is in place you will still more than likely need to disable the DSC to maximize the pull of the s/c.

 

So when you selling that engine cover? (he he he)

 

?, who likes there DSC on for everyday driving. The only time I kept it on was driving long distance in the rain. Other then that I think it makes your car unpredictable like the pushing in the turns thing with the increased power. Tell you the truth I only put my MAF in to get the tranny working correctly in manual mode. I did the same on Cams car to show that it still works, he since has removed it so he dosnt have to push any buttons to disengage. Wouldnt it be nice to be able to have it already off when you start your car and have to turn it on when you wanted it.

 

Everyone should vent the coil mounting plate whether they relocate or not. Also do the indivdual coil grounds back to the neg battery post.
the mazmart water pump should be the 1st mod anyone does period.
EVERY fi system needs it imho--we do like to lower egt's right?
I think I also would want my maf.
olddragger

 

Moon...
Yeah... It would be sweet if by default it was off and it required a manual decision to turn it on... Say under wet conditions.

OD...
It would seem that venting the plate would be good idea for anyone, but I'd say the coils by default are a Mazda engineering failure. There is just really no reason why these are failing in as little as 20K. Poor design is the only logical reason, but ya live with what ya love. At least now they are 1 billion times easier to get to. And yes I do believe there is a central ground right to the battery, but I'd have to double check that as like I said earlier, Cam ran away on the electrical while I was under the car doing the heat exchanger.
Paul's (MazMart)HI-Flow Water Pump is, for me, very tantalizing. My car has always seem to run cool. I have Scott's (MazSport) Cool Fan Mod, but I swear it does not work cause my car seems to never runs over 200F. I just have good plumbing I guess. Never-the-less, I naturally want to do everything possible to extend the life of my motor. I mean a 20b is going to be expensive!!! Seriously though, I choose the s/c way over the turbos because it is my believe that the s/c ultimately is more friendly to the rotary. That and the fact that it is power & torque now, not in a spooled second and the fact that it seems as if Turbos are killing motors left and right. I sure am aiming to not be the next FI motor victim. With that being said... I have every bit of confidence in what Pettit & crew has developed. I also think it is wise to make sure the Charge Temps stay as low as possible and any steps one can make to ensure a cooler and friction free system will only help.

 

+1

I don't need no stinkin DSC.

If it rains we use the wifes car.lololol

 

Moon
how is your car issue going?

 

Work in progress

 

Talked to Cam tonight. He is planning on doing an s/c install on site of SSX. That should be something to see.

 

That would be me.

Assuming my car can make it the 400 miles across the desert...

 

Join in the large Arizona members sojourn to SSX. That 400+ miles will be drudgery on the trip down but the trip back will be a real treat. You should find the car that Mazda should have released to begin with. Cam is a cool guy. Welcome to the Pettit owners.

 

^ +1

Welcome

We are multiplying like rabbits.

 

^^ +1

i feel like a mother with new kittens

 

water pump has the coolant and oil temps almost synchronized. usually oil temps were approx 10-15 degrees higher. Speaking of temps obtained during mixed city driving only. That is a real good thing for a rotary. Questions?
Also the engine warms up faster--better scrubbing i guess?
Pettit has it going on! No int x units available (not at mazsport either for sure--possibily one but not sure) New shipment is arriving however. Hard for me to wait. In the past waiting has usually been a good thing. but hey dont they know I dont have long to live!! JK
Will get what I can get--- at least get a deposit down.
rotor on guys!
olddragger

 

Weird.

I see oil temps go up, then once the car is warmed up, the coolant follows. The two tend to be fairly even - usually at 180F. If I push it hard, or start doing stupid stuff like driving at high rpms in stop and go, the coolant will go up another 20F, while oil remains at 180F. In fact, I don't think I recall oil over 190F

 

you havent driven hard enough for long enough!
Where are you taking your readings from?
with this pump you will see the water temps go up before the oil temps during warming. And during normal temp fluctuations I see the oil temp fall when the coolant temps fall. It did not do that as markedly before. At 1st that will not make sense--but think about it . It is for the same reason the car warms up (coolant) faster. This pump is a good thing--and it is more than about temps.
olddragger

 

So will you guys be filming that install video too? Would be really nice to have that and the updated manual. I would think that both of those would do wonders for sales.

 

hehe. I don't track it, so you might be right. The oil temp is from the rb gauge pod - so at the oil filter.

 

I know my wife and I'll be taking lots of pictures at least! (We don't have a camcorder)

I think a big point of the SevenStock live install is to prove to the skeptics and kill some rumors about install difficulty. That, and it'll probably be a great way to attract a crowd!

 

oh boy i get to use a HACKSAW!!!!
olddragger