avengerr91

My Kuro is here,finally.Im so pumped !

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Updated post 6 with vastly needed, painfully missed, and way overdue compression information.

memramcookgolfer

Hello.

First post. My Father is thinking about purchasing a 2004 Rx-8 GT 6speed tan/black leather interior. I have read the posts at the start of this thread, and would like a couple opinions on this car. The owner is asking $10,800 Canadian. The rear bumper was replaced due to an accident, and the whole car was repainted the stock grey colour. I loved these cars for a long time. I'm very jelous that my father is thinking on getting one.


- Engine ever replaced - NO

- - Mileage on current engine - 43,000

- Engine Compression - Not known, on test drive; car seemed to be running very well. Powerful and fast in my opinion indeed.

- Catalytic converter replaced - No

- Mileage of last coil change - Changed in April this year when the car was brought out of winter storage. 5w20

- - Has it ever had one or more coils fail on it with the current cat? No

- Mileage of last plug change - Stock Plugs.

- Mileage of last plug wire change - Stock Wires.

- Has it ever been flooded? (cat life remaining info) - He said it hadn't been flooded.

- Tail lights ever replaced? [2004, 2005] - No

- - If not, have the seals ever been replaced, or the tailights modified to drain water? Hole drilled in lights.

- Oil consumption (ask in how many miles between adding a quart or half a quart, and have them tell you which it was)) - Owner said he adds 1qt a month.

- MSP 13 performed by a dealer, and date / mileage [Mazda 2004, 2005] - Not sure.

- Gas mileage typically seen - 20mpg, 24highway.

- Number of miles typically on the trip odometer when the low gas light comes on
(yes, ask both gas mileage questions) - He didn't give me an answer on this one.

- Starter replaced to the upgraded version [2004, 2005] - NO

- Temperature control **** ever replaced or repaired [2004, 2005] - NO

- Clutch pedal assembly ever replaced, re-welded, or re-inforced - NO.


Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

That mileage alone tells me it is probably a healthy engine/ignition.

For that price, doesn't seem bad. I would REALLY suggest getting that compression test first though.

memramcookgolfer

Thanks for the quick reply RIWPP. The owner works 11-8 Monday to Friday, so getting a compression test done might be tough. The owner of it also never had the compression tested as he feels the car performs A1.

He is not the original owner, he bought it from whoever replaced the rear bumper who was selling the car after its accident.

Thanks again. Really value the feedback. What should the first things I should do if he does decide to get this car? Replace Plugs, Wires, Oil Change, Gasket for the rear taillights (Things I can do for him). Do the coils need to be replaced before the car develops any rough idle, loss of power or misfiring?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Gaskets for the tail lights are probably not worth doing if they are already drilled. Only worth it if they aren't. Ignition is something you should probably consider as well. Seems to be doing fine at the moment, but if by "stock" you mean "original", then they are 13k / 43% past the average lifespan, and could go at any time. The primary problem with coils/plug/wire failure isn't the misfiring and mileage drop, it's that it incredibly accelerates cat failure, which increases engine wear and can fry the O2 sensors as well, possibly start a fire, etc. Extreme? Sure, but not unheard of. Easier and cheaper in the long run just making sure everything is healthy. Check out Autozone for $182 for the entire set (plugs, wires, coils) as the cheapest option at the moment. If nothing else, keep the set on hand for when you do get that first hesitation or stumble.

Alot of dealers open at 6am as well, so his schedule makes it possible, trade cars for the morning or something. It's better to know that compression ahead of time, even if it's perfect. Then if the engine fails later, the dealer can't point at a prior owner and potentially missing records as the reason for denying warranty coverage. Though, you could be less than a year left on the 8yr side of the 8yr/100k engine warranty, so that might not matter as much.

kingjain

I am strongly considering an RX-8 and I must say, this thread is AMAZING, thank you so much!

I am very reluctant now to get anything below 2006 now though because of the improvements over the previous years. My budget is around 10.5k and im trying to get one with less than 50k miles.....it seems like this will be hard to achieve with a 2006+ model in my budget :/

I have a question about the manual vs. automatic. I want a manual, but my parents don't want me to get one for various reasons unfortunately (i am a student). I can't really argue with them because the fact that they are considering getting me an RX-8 in the first place is pretty surprising :D .....I don't mind getting an auto if it's 6spd (2006+) and according to one the first posts you can't really feel the difference in quickness/speed until you hit 125mph....which i dont plan on doing anyways haha. But how can this be true if they say the car really picks up speed after 5k rpm?? ...the auto only revs to 7.5k so won't this make a big difference? I really don't care if it is ACTUALLY slower, but does it FEEL a lot slower?

I'm really just looking for a car I an have some (responsible) fun in and this seems to be the best option for the price. I'm not going to be taking it to the track or anything.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I've driven 4-port automatic's, 6-port automatic's, and 6-port manuals. The 6-port manual is clearly faster, even from a perspective of the driver's chair with no other cars nearby to compare it to. But the point I was trying to make in the post you are referring to is that it doesn't produce any more torque than the auto's (slightly less actually), so when you stomp on the go pedal, the force pushing you back into the seat is the same between all 3. You can just wind it out more in the MTs, and your sensation of speed does climb faster for the MTs than the ATs.

That being said, the sensation of speed is really muted anyway, because this car handles speed so well.

Completely ignoring the actual sensation of acceleration however.... the MT 100% definitely FEELS different to drive. You are far more connected to it, and your interaction isn't dulled by a slushbox. The ability to put the revs where you want them, in the gear you want, at the point in the curve you want....THAT is what makes a MT feel so much different. The AT can do this "technically" but the feel is gone. The added delay of the transmission computer trying to figure out what you want, and taking it's good old time getting there, not being able to engage the clutch in just the way you want to.... there is alot missing.

Granted, not everyone sees it the same way, and too many people either can't or won't detect, recognize, or even embrace what I'm talking about. It's why I don't argue the point usually.

risingsunroof7to8

I cant agree with you more.... there really is no sub for MT.
And hey, heres something interesting...... my starter fried on me yesterday at 4 in the morning in town. I live in the country 8 miles away. know how i started it? luckily i was on a hill so we got her rolling and popped the clutch. do that in an AT.
Starter is already fixed...... family runs a local starter and alternator shop and was a piece of cake rebuilding. I heard they were problem starters but what is their major problem? as in what would happen to them cause mine was just whipped.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

They are starters just like any other car. Different specs, but I don't think anything outside the normal range of what is needed for any other car. Your family's shop could answer "why do starters fail" more accurately than I could. Nothing rotary specific about it. Just the 2004s and some 2005s had too weak of a starter to begin with and it had to be beefed up.

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

you actually can roll start an auto it just has to roll a good bit faster
i have driven both and the only real difference to me is the RPMs i have an AP so the rev limiter is gone and redline is 10,000 but, you cant rev match which sucks and means you cant put the rpms exactly where they need to be
yes initially it does take some time to get used to the paddle shifters and really become effective at shifting with them but as far as performance i can pass the majority of MT rx8s that i ride with

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

slvr, I don't know where to start with that post


But in a way you make my point of the fruitless nature of arguing about it

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

go ahead Pearl id like to see your thoughts on the topic
im probably wrong after all this coming from the guy who swore his car felt slower after putting a resonated midpipe on yea i did that

you can PM me if you'd like to keep it off the thread

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

A) You contradicted yourself in your post. You didn't remove the rev limiter, you just changed where it's at
B) Changing the rev limiter is one option, if someone wants to go that route, but most won't
C) Changing the rev limiter doesn't change the computer's interference in shifting. Using paddle shifts removes the "I think I know what you want" interference, but you still are stuck with the computer and hardware's shift speed and mushy "engagement".
D) Using other drivers as a measurement of how good the car is, is fundamentally flawed. Even if you take 2 people of comparative skill, it's still flawed. For example if you were behind me, flogging it through the curves, I'd likely let you pass if I didn't think I would easily out-strip you. I can control how close I am to the car in front, but not the car behind, and as long as you aren't poking through the turns, I'm perfectly content to follow. Human nature will over-ride apparent skill.
E) When you let off the gas and go for the brake, what is the car doing in that fraction of a second? It's still under power, as the momentum of all that fluid is still pushing the power to the wheels. I've never seen a test, but I entirely believe that in two identical weight cars, with same brakes, same tires, etc... a MT has a several foot advantage in braking compared to an AT, if you measure from the point where the mental thought to brake occurs. MT's start decelerating immediately due to fuel shut off and engine compression and nothing providing power, AT's have all that fluid still pushing the gear around, and you aren't losing speed in that transition. Even 2-3 feet can make a difference in if you rear end someone or not.


Does this mean I am bashing on ATs? Not at all. They have their purpose and place. Including people that have injuries, disabilities, deal with stop-and-go traffic, etc... I have trouble fathoming a reason for getting an AT other than "laziness" when these aren't a factor, but as long as they are happy, good for them.

MT vs AT is a different experience, and modifying an AT to get it more like a MT seems to be like wasted effort when you can't close the entire gap, and could have just gotten a MT to begin with.

kingjain

Haha thanks for the input guys. I went and tried a manual over the weekend and really loved it. I guess I'll go check out an automatic too and see whats up!

Honestly even if the automatic is a bit less engaging and fun (and its my only choice as I said earlier), there aren't many cars (or any other cars) you can get with this amount of "fun" in this price range (9-11k).

slvr- 10k redline, ap??? sorry im new to rx8s and mods in general, but wow that sounds amazing :o

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

king, take that part of slvr's post with a grain of salt.

I'm not bashing him for doing it, but the AT's redline is for the transmission, and raising it from 7.5k to 9k isn't inherently bad, but if you spend alot of time up there the AT transmission fluid won't survive long, and you will need to change it alot more frequently. Raising it to 10k is largely track-only as a reason, to extend the shift just a hair longer if the track you run at is oddly distanced for your gearing / speed, and you either pound the limiter at 9k, or shift up for a split second before down again on the brakes for the next corner. Even MTs shouldn't really be over 9k if they can avoid it. The engine itself can take it, but you are generating MASSIVE heat, and the power is dropping fast due to leaving the intake efficiency / tune range. Track timing on shifts is really the only justifiable reason to be there.

AP = AccessPORT, a tool that allows tuning and changing of car and engine parameters.

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

right i changed the rev limiter to 10K

yes the paddle shifters do not shift the same which is the most aggrevating thing but once you get used to it you can shift very effectively and know exactly what the car is going to do...thats the bad part...its more like the car is telling you instead of you telling the car

i compare it to other cars on straights not turns...my suspension is too modded to compare in the turns. and on the straights my car can out accelerate quite a few of the MT 8s that i ride with...there are a lot of variable in that, i know

i havent thought about the decelerating but its a very interesting concept...i do downshift to help with deceleration though

i got the AT because i didnt know any better at the time and it was what was there and i could afford...i would rather have a MT but, i would stop anyone from gettig an AT or say that it would not be able to compete

no doubt stock MT and stock AT there is no comparison in the performance or driving experience but with just a little work an AT is easily able to compete with a MT

my thoughts anyway

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

king - the experience of MT is different but even an AT rx8 is still more fun than most other cars. if the MT option is available go for it but dont underestimate the 8 just because of the AT it is still a great car

the accessport does a variety of things like changing the fuel mixture to make the car run smoother, improve powerband, ect
Pearl is right about the redline...there is not much need outside of track and can be bad for the engine to spool that high of RPM and produce that much heat for any amount of time

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The newbies question specifically said "no track" (and we know there isn't any competing on the street), so competing isn't a question, and he was asking about the "feel" of the two versions.

And admittedly, the "feel" of the engine/transmission is drastically different

The suspension is still fantastic on either. (unless you get a base model AT with 16" rims, small brakes, softer shocks, etc....)

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

dangit Pearl now youve got me thinking about swapping to a MT for no reason...thanks

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Have you driven a MT yet?

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

sure ive driven quite a few of them even at autoX
and even a SC one...mmm!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Then nothing I will say will sway your mind one way or another. If you didn't already want a MT from driving one, then likely you wouldn't have seen or valued the difference enough to bother with an exchange. If you already did want one, well, there isn't an real discussion needed

kingjain

Hahaha. Ultimately what I was trying to get at with my question is whether or not it is still worth getting an RX8 if I am only able to get an automatic....and it seems like I am getting a universal "yes", taken that it is no doubt a different driving experience, but a good one nonetheless.

BTW- I am looking at this one http://bit.ly/o4ROss ....it is a bit of a drive from me, but there aren't many ATs 2006+ in my area. Hopefully I can bargain it down to around 11.5k.

.....Insurance cost is going to be deadly though :C ...That's one of the only things holding me back.

slvrstreak

iTrader: (3)

i would say dont let the fact that it's an auto scare you away
it is still a more enjoyable experience than most any other car
looks like a pretty good one but there is room for negotiation...compression test?