New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
11-19-2010, 07:25 AM
#128
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Added a section that I was missing. A section so critical that is shakes the club to it's foundations. A section that without it is like trying to increase NA horsepower with an intake and an ebay chip.
I added a section on how to search. The best way, the right way. And I added it as the first point.
Horray me
I added a section on how to search. The best way, the right way. And I added it as the first point.
Horray me
11-21-2010, 06:39 AM
#129
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Concerning MIAC........... Think you might want to go read this thread a little bit as there is either another source of this or the SSV theory have have to be re-thought. https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ght=owner+miac It's not too long, but give it a quick read. Has worked for numerous folks!
Also, just for the hell of it, and not sure of the over all importance...... I also made a thread awhile ago conecrning ABS, TCS/DCS lights staying on. Maybe you'd like to work that in somewhere as well or at least link to it? https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/have-abs-dcs-tcs-issues-lights-staying-202843/
Dave
Also, just for the hell of it, and not sure of the over all importance...... I also made a thread awhile ago conecrning ABS, TCS/DCS lights staying on. Maybe you'd like to work that in somewhere as well or at least link to it? https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/have-abs-dcs-tcs-issues-lights-staying-202843/
Dave
11-21-2010, 06:58 AM
#130
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Any objection if I quote the entirety of your OP in the ABS/TCS/DSC thread?
Rather than just linking it.
(As I did for the MIAC, hard to pick out things to quote there)
Rather than just linking it.
(As I did for the MIAC, hard to pick out things to quote there)
11-21-2010, 01:48 PM
#131
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Nope not a bit. Go for it if you think it's worthy. I link this thread and a couple more most times I run into a "new" person thread, so it's nice to have all that info centrally located. If they don't read it, then that's their failure.
And I was only pointing out the MIAC thing as it seems like there could be two causes for it and wasn't sure if you were aware of the fix that some people have had success with.
And I was only pointing out the MIAC thing as it seems like there could be two causes for it and wasn't sure if you were aware of the fix that some people have had success with.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 11-21-2010 at 02:06 PM.
11-22-2010, 02:05 AM
#132
in '06 they switched from Titanium to Galaxy Gray. As well, the Phantom Blue was also available in '07 (Which is what mine is!)
Some other minor flaws in color schemes I think... But, I'm too tired to find them lol
Good informative thread though!! Always point "New to the 8" threads here
Some other minor flaws in color schemes I think... But, I'm too tired to find them lol
Good informative thread though!! Always point "New to the 8" threads here
11-22-2010, 06:19 AM
#133
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Got it, thanks. Making the adjustments. There isn't a list of trims/colors anywhere, so I imagine that it will take some time to have that section 100% accurate.
01-22-2011, 09:26 PM
#137
Registered User
Hey so i thought this would be a good place to present myself to the RX8 community. I actually am the proud owner of a volvo s70 T5-m but my girlfriend owns a beautiful blue 04 RX8 and i have always had a thing for them however cringed at the model year and my reasons for cringing were reinforced after reading the first post or two on this thread hah!!!
I more or less just wanted to thank you for writing all this out because I am a quick learner and have already done some basic work on her car but i think it needs deeper TLC and you have answered a bunch of my questions such as the check engine light flashing, rocky idle, etc. and i have learned a lot about how those engines function beyond the basics that i already knew.
I know she would never hop on forums like this or attempt DIY's so here i am for her since im a good boyfriend like that.... so for starters this is what i am working with:
needs new pads
needs new plug wires
needs new coils
needs tranny flush
just did an oil change today and will tell her to dump an extra quart in every 1k miles (but i dont think she has and it went 3000 miles before the oil light came on so i think something is wrong there as well...)
just fixed her tail lights
just replaced her cabin blower fan **** (bought it on line through rosenthal mazda got a pretty good deal on it. found it from a forum post on here!)
4 new tires
cosmetics:
new windshield wiper blades
rain-x
washed, waxed, detailed interior and exterior
my OBDII reader picked up the following codes:
P0455
P0302
U0155
and the odd thing was these codes were thrown when the engine was doing 0 rpm at 0 miles per hour... how did the ECU pull codes while the engine was off?! I will hook it up to my comp for more diagnostics but for now i think i have a growing laundry list!
Also, the clutch pedal was very squeaky and i just lubed it up for her but now i see that might not be the issue.... The car is about to hit 70k miles the plugs have recently been changed and i have run a third bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it and throttled it up plenty on the highway to flush carbon (it was ******* when we first met and this has helped a lot, she shifts at 2800 rpm... SHAME! i dont even shift my volvo that low and mine redlines at 6500 rpm not 9500!!)
Is there anything else that anyone could suggest i do to make sure this thing is back to running smoothly?
p.s. even though my car has way more horsepower from an in-line 5 cylinder with a HPT pushing 15 psi peak pure stock.... hers definitely feels like it pulls harder so in one of the first comments about horsepower... i definitely understand why people thing it has more based on the "feel"... i was impressed!
Thanks guys!
I more or less just wanted to thank you for writing all this out because I am a quick learner and have already done some basic work on her car but i think it needs deeper TLC and you have answered a bunch of my questions such as the check engine light flashing, rocky idle, etc. and i have learned a lot about how those engines function beyond the basics that i already knew.
I know she would never hop on forums like this or attempt DIY's so here i am for her since im a good boyfriend like that.... so for starters this is what i am working with:
needs new pads
needs new plug wires
needs new coils
needs tranny flush
just did an oil change today and will tell her to dump an extra quart in every 1k miles (but i dont think she has and it went 3000 miles before the oil light came on so i think something is wrong there as well...)
just fixed her tail lights
just replaced her cabin blower fan **** (bought it on line through rosenthal mazda got a pretty good deal on it. found it from a forum post on here!)
4 new tires
cosmetics:
new windshield wiper blades
rain-x
washed, waxed, detailed interior and exterior
my OBDII reader picked up the following codes:
P0455
P0302
U0155
and the odd thing was these codes were thrown when the engine was doing 0 rpm at 0 miles per hour... how did the ECU pull codes while the engine was off?! I will hook it up to my comp for more diagnostics but for now i think i have a growing laundry list!
Also, the clutch pedal was very squeaky and i just lubed it up for her but now i see that might not be the issue.... The car is about to hit 70k miles the plugs have recently been changed and i have run a third bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it and throttled it up plenty on the highway to flush carbon (it was ******* when we first met and this has helped a lot, she shifts at 2800 rpm... SHAME! i dont even shift my volvo that low and mine redlines at 6500 rpm not 9500!!)
Is there anything else that anyone could suggest i do to make sure this thing is back to running smoothly?
p.s. even though my car has way more horsepower from an in-line 5 cylinder with a HPT pushing 15 psi peak pure stock.... hers definitely feels like it pulls harder so in one of the first comments about horsepower... i definitely understand why people thing it has more based on the "feel"... i was impressed!
Thanks guys!
01-23-2011, 08:29 AM
#138
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Hey so i thought this would be a good place to present myself to the RX8 community. I actually am the proud owner of a volvo s70 T5-m but my girlfriend owns a beautiful blue 04 RX8 and i have always had a thing for them however cringed at the model year and my reasons for cringing were reinforced after reading the first post or two on this thread hah!!!
Can we get pics of girlfriend? Pics or she doesn't exists! Just kidding, it's sort of a running joke on here!
I more or less just wanted to thank you for writing all this out because I am a quick learner and have already done some basic work on her car but i think it needs deeper TLC and you have answered a bunch of my questions such as the check engine light flashing, rocky idle, etc. and i have learned a lot about how those engines function beyond the basics that i already knew.
My list of newbie threads of which this thread is one!
[https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=202454
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/congratulations-you-got-8-a-202548/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/rx-8-faq-please-read-before-posting-959/
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=FAQ
Give a quick read when time.
I know she would never hop on forums like this or attempt DIY's so here i am for her since im a good boyfriend like that.... so for starters this is what i am working with:
needs new pads
needs new plug wires <- see below
needs new coils <-- see below
needs tranny flush <-- Can't hurt, pretty easy, search DIY section for how to
just did an oil change today and will tell her to dump an extra quart in every 1k miles (but i dont think she has and it went 3000 miles before the oil light came on so i think something is wrong there as well...)
Engine is designed to burn oil as you've read. You don't just dump a qt. in every know and then. It needs to be checked with the dipstick and add as appropriate about every other fillup or so, but you know that right?
just fixed her tail lights <-- damn seal
just replaced her cabin blower fan **** (bought it on line through rosenthal mazda got a pretty good deal on it. found it from a forum post on here!)
Yeah, Finishline is one good place.
4 new tires
cosmetics:
new windshield wiper blades
rain-x
washed, waxed, detailed interior and exterior
my OBDII reader picked up the following codes:
P0455 <-- Probably gas cap.....common issue. Make sure you clean it and have her click it five times after getting gas to close.
P0302 <-- Misfire........coils!!!!
U0155 <-- U0155 Communication error to instrument cluster. Probably caused by plugging in your ODB scanner..............what are you using?I wouldn't worry about this one too much at the moment.
and the odd thing was these codes were thrown when the engine was doing 0 rpm at 0 miles per hour... how did the ECU pull codes while the engine was off?! I will hook it up to my comp for more diagnostics but for now i think i have a growing laundry list!
If ECU sees something it doesn't like, it stores that code and if it sees the same thing on the next drive cycle, then it lights the CEL and moves the codes so they are reported. A drive cycle is defined as starting from cold condition and having the cars temp exceed........ I believe 180 degrees AND then having it cool off to less than 100 degrees. That's one drive cycle.
The actual Mazda definition of drive cycle is................
Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories OFF; cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)
1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.
2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds
3)Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds
4)Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.
5)Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes
6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph
7) maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.
Each step of the drive cycle indicates a test for a different monitor on the vehicle (catalyst, o2 sensor, evap, etc) so each step is important. Some vehicles are a pain and may require a few drive cycles.
But safe to say, it you just let it warm-up by driving it and then cool off as I said, it's pretty much a drive cycle.
Also, the clutch pedal was very squeaky and i just lubed it up for her but now i see that might not be the issue.... The car is about to hit 70k miles the plugs have recently been changed and i have run a third bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it and throttled it up plenty on the highway to flush carbon (it was ******* when we first met and this has helped a lot, she shifts at 2800 rpm... SHAME! i dont even shift my volvo that low and mine redlines at 6500 rpm not 9500!!) Inform her what the pedal on the right is for! A redline a day keeps the carbon away!
Yep, might wanna search for pictures of where the clutch pedal tends to crack. Good news, it's under warranty for 100k miles or 8 years if it breaks.
Is there anything else that anyone could suggest i do to make sure this thing is back to running smoothly?
Seems like you are doing a good job so far, keep it up!
p.s. even though my car has way more horsepower from an in-line 5 cylinder with a HPT pushing 15 psi peak pure stock.... hers definitely feels like it pulls harder so in one of the first comments about horsepower... i definitely understand why people thing it has more based on the "feel"... i was impressed! Thanks guys!
Go take some corners in it at speed and you'll really be impressed!
Can we get pics of girlfriend? Pics or she doesn't exists! Just kidding, it's sort of a running joke on here!
I more or less just wanted to thank you for writing all this out because I am a quick learner and have already done some basic work on her car but i think it needs deeper TLC and you have answered a bunch of my questions such as the check engine light flashing, rocky idle, etc. and i have learned a lot about how those engines function beyond the basics that i already knew.
My list of newbie threads of which this thread is one!
[https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=202454
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/congratulations-you-got-8-a-202548/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/rx-8-faq-please-read-before-posting-959/
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=FAQ
Give a quick read when time.
I know she would never hop on forums like this or attempt DIY's so here i am for her since im a good boyfriend like that.... so for starters this is what i am working with:
needs new pads
needs new plug wires <- see below
needs new coils <-- see below
needs tranny flush <-- Can't hurt, pretty easy, search DIY section for how to
just did an oil change today and will tell her to dump an extra quart in every 1k miles (but i dont think she has and it went 3000 miles before the oil light came on so i think something is wrong there as well...)
Engine is designed to burn oil as you've read. You don't just dump a qt. in every know and then. It needs to be checked with the dipstick and add as appropriate about every other fillup or so, but you know that right?
just fixed her tail lights <-- damn seal
just replaced her cabin blower fan **** (bought it on line through rosenthal mazda got a pretty good deal on it. found it from a forum post on here!)
Yeah, Finishline is one good place.
4 new tires
cosmetics:
new windshield wiper blades
rain-x
washed, waxed, detailed interior and exterior
my OBDII reader picked up the following codes:
P0455 <-- Probably gas cap.....common issue. Make sure you clean it and have her click it five times after getting gas to close.
P0302 <-- Misfire........coils!!!!
U0155 <-- U0155 Communication error to instrument cluster. Probably caused by plugging in your ODB scanner..............what are you using?I wouldn't worry about this one too much at the moment.
and the odd thing was these codes were thrown when the engine was doing 0 rpm at 0 miles per hour... how did the ECU pull codes while the engine was off?! I will hook it up to my comp for more diagnostics but for now i think i have a growing laundry list!
If ECU sees something it doesn't like, it stores that code and if it sees the same thing on the next drive cycle, then it lights the CEL and moves the codes so they are reported. A drive cycle is defined as starting from cold condition and having the cars temp exceed........ I believe 180 degrees AND then having it cool off to less than 100 degrees. That's one drive cycle.
The actual Mazda definition of drive cycle is................
Pre-requisites: MIL off and no DTCs present (this is where clearing your codes comes in); fuel level between 15 and 85%; all accessories OFF; cold start (preferred 8 hour cold soak w/ engine between 68 and 86 deg F at start-up)
1) Start vehicle and idle 5 min.
2) Rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 seconds
3)Rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 seconds
4)Idle engine for 20 seconds with cooling fan stopped.
5)Accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed (in high gear) for 1 1/2 minutes
6) Decelerate to 15 mph, and then drive for 13 minutes at speeds ranging from 15 to 35 mph
7) maintain steady 25 mph for 50 seconds.
Each step of the drive cycle indicates a test for a different monitor on the vehicle (catalyst, o2 sensor, evap, etc) so each step is important. Some vehicles are a pain and may require a few drive cycles.
But safe to say, it you just let it warm-up by driving it and then cool off as I said, it's pretty much a drive cycle.
Also, the clutch pedal was very squeaky and i just lubed it up for her but now i see that might not be the issue.... The car is about to hit 70k miles the plugs have recently been changed and i have run a third bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it and throttled it up plenty on the highway to flush carbon (it was ******* when we first met and this has helped a lot, she shifts at 2800 rpm... SHAME! i dont even shift my volvo that low and mine redlines at 6500 rpm not 9500!!) Inform her what the pedal on the right is for! A redline a day keeps the carbon away!
Yep, might wanna search for pictures of where the clutch pedal tends to crack. Good news, it's under warranty for 100k miles or 8 years if it breaks.
Is there anything else that anyone could suggest i do to make sure this thing is back to running smoothly?
Seems like you are doing a good job so far, keep it up!
p.s. even though my car has way more horsepower from an in-line 5 cylinder with a HPT pushing 15 psi peak pure stock.... hers definitely feels like it pulls harder so in one of the first comments about horsepower... i definitely understand why people thing it has more based on the "feel"... i was impressed! Thanks guys!
Go take some corners in it at speed and you'll really be impressed!
Where in Florida?
Then see above for some possible answers/help.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-23-2011 at 09:37 AM.
01-23-2011, 08:42 AM
#139
Other easy maintenance suggestions:
Clean the MAF
Clean the Eccentric Shaft Sensor
Whenever I've read the codes on my 8 I don't recal a speed and rpm reading as well .... mmmmm I'll have to check that .... or maybe it's just the universal reader you are using expects that in some models and the RX8 doesn't record that data so it shows up as Zero's <shrug>
Interesting codes
P0455 = Evap leak .... maybe a bad gas cap or it wasn't tightened correctly at sometime
P0302 = Misfire in Rear Rotor ... the new plugs and coils should fix that
U0155 = Comm error to Instrument cluster ..... well now ... that's new to me. I get a U0073 CAN system communication error (See DTC TABLE [MULTIPLEX
COMMUNICATION SYSTEM] ) frequently when data logging on my Cobb AP ..... I've been told not to worry about it.
Linky to cel codes https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rx-8-technical-info-cel-codes-pcm-pin-list-collision-guide-26291/
Linky to Evap thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/p0455-evap-system-leak-detected-112250/
Clean the MAF
Clean the Eccentric Shaft Sensor
Whenever I've read the codes on my 8 I don't recal a speed and rpm reading as well .... mmmmm I'll have to check that .... or maybe it's just the universal reader you are using expects that in some models and the RX8 doesn't record that data so it shows up as Zero's <shrug>
Interesting codes
P0455 = Evap leak .... maybe a bad gas cap or it wasn't tightened correctly at sometime
P0302 = Misfire in Rear Rotor ... the new plugs and coils should fix that
U0155 = Comm error to Instrument cluster ..... well now ... that's new to me. I get a U0073 CAN system communication error (See DTC TABLE [MULTIPLEX
COMMUNICATION SYSTEM] ) frequently when data logging on my Cobb AP ..... I've been told not to worry about it.
Linky to cel codes https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/rx-8-technical-info-cel-codes-pcm-pin-list-collision-guide-26291/
Linky to Evap thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/p0455-evap-system-leak-detected-112250/
Last edited by wcs; 01-23-2011 at 08:46 AM.
01-23-2011, 08:47 AM
#141
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
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Yeah..................didn't have anything else to do at the moment.
Plus.........you gotta qoute the original post to insure it's kinda linked up or he will never find it!
Least we gave the same info!
Plus.........you gotta qoute the original post to insure it's kinda linked up or he will never find it!
Least we gave the same info!
01-23-2011, 08:52 AM
#142
Welcome, and, pretty much what Mazurfer siad..
Where in Florida? I might be able to help. I am in the Oviedo/Orlando area.
Only thought is do coils before wires. Wires seem pretty good, coils, especially early ones, not so much. Good coils will do a lot for the starting, especially combating flooding.
Check the $100 thread in my sig, it is one of the same ones Mazurfer pointed to. Given what you have done, you should be able to easily get through the list, and you will want to before summer for AC performance.
Again, welcome.
Where in Florida? I might be able to help. I am in the Oviedo/Orlando area.
Only thought is do coils before wires. Wires seem pretty good, coils, especially early ones, not so much. Good coils will do a lot for the starting, especially combating flooding.
Check the $100 thread in my sig, it is one of the same ones Mazurfer pointed to. Given what you have done, you should be able to easily get through the list, and you will want to before summer for AC performance.
Again, welcome.
01-23-2011, 08:55 AM
#144
I know I should have quoted him but I was hoping to have the post directly under his and it would be necessary .... but someone stole my thunder.
Indeed I was pleased that the info we provided was almost bang on the same.
Cheers
01-23-2011, 06:46 PM
#146
Registered User
figured id hide it a bit in a burried post so that only people that care enough to reply would see it :-) didnt wanna come in with a bang! We are in the Melbourne area which is like an hour south of orlando.
01-23-2011, 06:49 PM
#147
Registered User
Welcome, and, pretty much what Mazurfer siad..
Where in Florida? I might be able to help. I am in the Oviedo/Orlando area.
Only thought is do coils before wires. Wires seem pretty good, coils, especially early ones, not so much. Good coils will do a lot for the starting, especially combating flooding.
Check the $100 thread in my sig, it is one of the same ones Mazurfer pointed to. Given what you have done, you should be able to easily get through the list, and you will want to before summer for AC performance.
Again, welcome.
Where in Florida? I might be able to help. I am in the Oviedo/Orlando area.
Only thought is do coils before wires. Wires seem pretty good, coils, especially early ones, not so much. Good coils will do a lot for the starting, especially combating flooding.
Check the $100 thread in my sig, it is one of the same ones Mazurfer pointed to. Given what you have done, you should be able to easily get through the list, and you will want to before summer for AC performance.
Again, welcome.
Not far from orlando! I am actually trying to find her someone local i have a guy who works on my volvo up in orlando from his home. Harder stuff that required dropping the subframe or things of that nature i go to his independent volvo shop in maitland.
Coils will be done ASAP and will read up on the $100 thread because her AC performance in the winter already sucks (ugh) especially now that she can adjust it since i got the replacement ****.
Thanks for the help guys, you are all way more responsive than the volvo forums i am on :-)
01-23-2011, 08:10 PM
#148
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 0
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Not far from orlando! I am actually trying to find her someone local i have a guy who works on my volvo up in orlando from his home. Harder stuff that required dropping the subframe or things of that nature i go to his independent volvo shop in maitland.
Coils will be done ASAP and will read up on the $100 thread because her AC performance in the winter already sucks (ugh) especially now that she can adjust it since i got the replacement ****.
Thanks for the help guys, you are all way more responsive than the volvo forums i am on :-)
Coils will be done ASAP and will read up on the $100 thread because her AC performance in the winter already sucks (ugh) especially now that she can adjust it since i got the replacement ****.
Thanks for the help guys, you are all way more responsive than the volvo forums i am on :-)
Just because you got the **** doesn't mean it's working of course.
With the radio on, press the Power and Seek up buttons on the headunit at the same time, it will not show actual temp, but what it will do is show the temp dial position.
0 is all the way cold.
16 is all the way hot.
If it changes without you moving the dial(verify this first), or gets locked at some value when you do move the dial, then most likely the dial needs to be resoldered to the PCB behind it. Its a known issue.
Then you might wanna try this...........it is the amplifier reset.
It does more than just the reset and many of us know it makes the A/C about 5 degrees cooler. I swear.....just try it, once you do the above!
1. Verify ignition switch is in OFF position.
2. Press and hold the front defrost and air intake selector buttons simultaneously.
3. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #3.)
4. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #4.)
5. Successful programming will be confirmed by the rear defrost indicator light flashing 3 times. NOTE: If vehicle's battery dies or cables are removed, the programming will not be retained and must be performed again.
I do this everytime I disconnect the battery for any reason.
Dave
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-23-2011 at 08:17 PM.
01-27-2011, 08:20 PM
#149
Registered User
Just because you got the **** doesn't mean it's working of course.
With the radio on, press the Power and Seek up buttons on the headunit at the same time, it will not show actual temp, but what it will do is show the temp dial position.
0 is all the way cold.
16 is all the way hot.
If it changes without you moving the dial(verify this first), or gets locked at some value when you do move the dial, then most likely the dial needs to be resoldered to the PCB behind it. Its a known issue.
Then you might wanna try this...........it is the amplifier reset.
It does more than just the reset and many of us know it makes the A/C about 5 degrees cooler. I swear.....just try it, once you do the above!
1. Verify ignition switch is in OFF position.
2. Press and hold the front defrost and air intake selector buttons simultaneously.
3. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #3.)
4. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #4.)
5. Successful programming will be confirmed by the rear defrost indicator light flashing 3 times. NOTE: If vehicle's battery dies or cables are removed, the programming will not be retained and must be performed again.
I do this everytime I disconnect the battery for any reason.
Dave
With the radio on, press the Power and Seek up buttons on the headunit at the same time, it will not show actual temp, but what it will do is show the temp dial position.
0 is all the way cold.
16 is all the way hot.
If it changes without you moving the dial(verify this first), or gets locked at some value when you do move the dial, then most likely the dial needs to be resoldered to the PCB behind it. Its a known issue.
Then you might wanna try this...........it is the amplifier reset.
It does more than just the reset and many of us know it makes the A/C about 5 degrees cooler. I swear.....just try it, once you do the above!
1. Verify ignition switch is in OFF position.
2. Press and hold the front defrost and air intake selector buttons simultaneously.
3. Turn the ignition key to the "ACC" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #3.)
4. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position for 3 seconds. (Continue to hold the buttons down from step #4.)
5. Successful programming will be confirmed by the rear defrost indicator light flashing 3 times. NOTE: If vehicle's battery dies or cables are removed, the programming will not be retained and must be performed again.
I do this everytime I disconnect the battery for any reason.
Dave
sounds like a prank to me :-P but ill suck it up and try it for the hell of it and if its a prank ill get a good laugh but if it works RX8's are freakin weird! lol
01-27-2011, 08:39 PM
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I haven't seen Mazurfer pull a prank yet. I didn't know about this though, will have to do it as well.
Not that A/C is a big deal to worry about when the 8 is driving on 1 inch of packed snow and parks next to 6ft of it.
There are these types of procedures in every vehicle out there since probably the late 90s. They are getting more complicated as the manufacturers try to hide them more and need to pull up diagnostics of more items more easily.
Not that A/C is a big deal to worry about when the 8 is driving on 1 inch of packed snow and parks next to 6ft of it.
There are these types of procedures in every vehicle out there since probably the late 90s. They are getting more complicated as the manufacturers try to hide them more and need to pull up diagnostics of more items more easily.