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New to the group! A few initial questions on my RX-8...
Hey all,
I recently picked up a 2008 40th Anniversary Edition (6-speed manual) with roughly 73k miles on it. The motor was rebuilt at around 68k-69k miles. Against what almost feels like EVERYONE's input online, both in what I've read and what I've watched (on YouTube, etc.) due to their terrible history with regards to reliability and gas mileage, as is, I decided to still give this rotary niche a chance, anyway. There was something about the overall rotary and experience driving it that I really like. It's unique. Not to mention how you need to stay on top of the maintenance, which I like to do anyway. For perspective, my other vehicle is a 1998 Land Rover Discovery LE V8 and one of the last few shipped over here that were still built in the UK. The rig just rolled over 201,000 miles, and is still the home's workhorse on a weekly basis. Anyone who knows about these old Land Rovers... you are underneath those things more often than not either changing out fluids or parts.
Back to the 8... The seller had the engine rebuilt at Rotor Piston Motorsports in Hagerstown, MD. Below, is a list of what the shop's motor rebuild included. In addition to the motor rebuild, the following parts were also installed while at the shop: new clutch, Catless mid-pipe (even though I will be replacing this one with a resonated pipe and also replace the OEM cat-back exhaust at the same time), new Oil Cooler Lines, StopTech slotted rotors w/HAWK track pads, upgraded R3 Starter (spins at 350 RPM), GM LS Ignition Coils, AEM Cold Air Intake, Sohn Premix Kit. The air pump was removed for space to install the premix kit and mount, Oil Catch Can (even though this can will be replaced with a better one in the next few days).
Compression Test done at Rotor Piston Motorsports on 11/30/2019 showed these results after the rebuild:
FRONT 112 112 112 PSI
REAR 109 102 109 PSI
With the above and below in mind, I have 4 initial questions:
Premix: I have the aftermarket premix kit mounted to firewall feeding Idemitsu Racing Premix to the motor currently. Does anyone with this same setup still add Premix manually to the fuel tank at fill up? Or, is that overkill on the Premix? If it is common, or more importantly, still good to do so how much extra does one add when they have the Sohn premix kit.
What fluid Brands do the slightly modded RX-8s like with regards to oils? I.e. Engine oil, differential oil, etc. Idemitsu here, as well? MOTUL?
Is there anything additional that I should keep an eye on that typically is known for problems? I have read cooling issues with the rotary engine is another one. I plan to order gauges to monitor my oil temp / pressure and water temp.
Cooling: Who do you all like primarily for cooling anyway (Oil Coolers, Radiators, a good Thermostat, etc.)
Here is the breakdown given to me of the motor rebuild at 69k miles from Rotor Piston Motorsports:
Mild Street Port
Apex Seals (the Apex seals were optioned out for ceramic seals; which I am told do not necessarily last any longer than OEM, but will handle the hard driving and abuse better.)
Apex Seal Springs
Rotor Bearing
Main Bearings
Oil Control Rings
Side Seals
Side Seal Springs
Corner Seal Springs
Water Seals
Front Cover Gasket
Front & Rear Main Seals
New Clutch
Invoice says the work comes with a 12k mile (1-year) warranty.
For me, this RX-8 will be a daily for the next 1 -2 years.
Maybe that next motor will be the start of transitioning over to a track-only / weekender focus. Below are a few pics of the outside and engine bay currently so you can see layout.
Outside of maintaining the engine, etc. for reliability... the only mods I plan on doing at this time revolve tires, suspension and stability (i.e. coil overs, bushings, roll bars, etc.)
Thanks in advance! I appreciate any solid advice or input.
These questions, as well as questions that you haven't asked but should be aware of, are covered in the New & Potential Owners thread. Be sure to read it through.
1.That's not a premix kit, it's an alternate source for your oil injection. You must keep it filled, and can premix lightly in addition for comprehensive protection. The injection system doesn't reach everywhere.
2. Engine oil is subject of some debate, there are many threads about it without a conclusive answer. Since you have a Sohn adapter (from 1), you can run synthetic. You can also choose to run regular oil and change it regularly. Regardless of what you run, change it regularly unless you have done used oil analyses and know how your oil ages. There is a thread of used oil analyses for reference.
Trans and diff: you MUST use GL4 in the trans. Redline or Motorcraft are popular successful ones. Make sure whatever you put in the diff is LSD compatible. Weights and amounts are in the manual.
3) Lots of things, read the New & Potential Owners thread. main ones: ignition coils, catalytic converter, cooling.
4) Leave the oil circuit well enough alone. CSF makes a really nice, well-fitting radiator. Be sure engine undertray is in place or no radiator will help you.
Your motor is already as track oriented as you're likely to get without boost, Mazda didn't leave much on the table.
01-22-2020, 03:16 PM
