My rx8 experience :)
08-04-2017, 05:59 PM
#76
The following 2 users liked this post by drivenbymaness:
Jastreb (08-25-2017),
Okki-Jakarta (09-13-2017)
08-25-2017, 08:26 PM
#79
For your dyno video, the results don't make a lick of sense. It's not a crank dyno, you're getting 187 at the wheels, which is reasonable. Also in your comments you say the torque and hp curve cross at 6-7000. That's not correct, they have to cross at 5250. All cars dyno curves cross at that point and there is nothing you can do to change it (except mess up the dyno session).
08-25-2017, 08:35 PM
#80
For your dyno video, the results don't make a lick of sense. It's not a crank dyno, you're getting 187 at the wheels, which is reasonable. Also in your comments you say the torque and hp curve cross at 6-7000. That's not correct, they have to cross at 5250. All cars dyno curves cross at that point and there is nothing you can do to change it (except mess up the dyno session).
I see, well i said that because on the graph they cross on aproximately that point. Thanks for the info, i'll make sure to put it in good use
08-25-2017, 09:30 PM
#82
If you say so, then i'm happy with the results
09-10-2017, 10:00 AM
#85
That sounds like your secondary air pump bearing.You hear it through the intake, but only because it channels the sound. Put one end of a wooden stick on the air pump and the other end to your ear, you'll know right away if it's the pump, because the sound will come from the stick.
09-13-2017, 01:20 PM
#86
That sounds like your secondary air pump bearing.You hear it through the intake, but only because it channels the sound. Put one end of a wooden stick on the air pump and the other end to your ear, you'll know right away if it's the pump, because the sound will come from the stick.
The sound comes from the tube connected to the OMP. We'll check it to see what's causing the noise.
Thanks for the input!
09-14-2017, 04:37 PM
#88
Smoking turbo yay
Yeah, I would imagine it's the wheel horsepower as well. Strange.
How do you even measure crank horsepower without tearing the engine out? You can't just assume the drivetrain efficiency.
As for torque, that's never the rotary's strong suit, but hey, at least we don't get the "more torque than your Mazda" treatment like Honda guys do.
Too bad I don't have a dyno around where I live.
How do you even measure crank horsepower without tearing the engine out? You can't just assume the drivetrain efficiency.
As for torque, that's never the rotary's strong suit, but hey, at least we don't get the "more torque than your Mazda" treatment like Honda guys do.
Too bad I don't have a dyno around where I live.
09-30-2017, 01:19 PM
#93
upYou know, you're supposed to let the engine warm up to operating temperature for the test. Otherwise it will read higher compression than actual.
Also there is no point in testing leading and trailing, just test leading. Your leading results were probably higher because the engine had cooled by the time you got to them. In a rotary compression decreases with engine temperature.
Also most compression spec around here is in kg/cm2, which is close to, but not exactly equal to bar.
And also, be careful that adding adapters to the end of the gauge and removing the schrader valve doesn't add volume to the combustion chamber, rendering the compression reading lower than actual.
With those numbers you should be having difficulty starting when warm..
You might want to make a video about reading the Mazda or Racing Beat compression testing procedures, they're far less misleading
Also there is no point in testing leading and trailing, just test leading. Your leading results were probably higher because the engine had cooled by the time you got to them. In a rotary compression decreases with engine temperature.
Also most compression spec around here is in kg/cm2, which is close to, but not exactly equal to bar.
And also, be careful that adding adapters to the end of the gauge and removing the schrader valve doesn't add volume to the combustion chamber, rendering the compression reading lower than actual.
With those numbers you should be having difficulty starting when warm..
You might want to make a video about reading the Mazda or Racing Beat compression testing procedures, they're far less misleading
09-30-2017, 04:11 PM
#94
upYou know, you're supposed to let the engine warm up to operating temperature for the test. Otherwise it will read higher compression than actual.
Also there is no point in testing leading and trailing, just test leading. Your leading results were probably higher because the engine had cooled by the time you got to them. In a rotary compression decreases with engine temperature.
Also most compression spec around here is in kg/cm2, which is close to, but not exactly equal to bar.
And also, be careful that adding adapters to the end of the gauge and removing the schrader valve doesn't add volume to the combustion chamber, rendering the compression reading lower than actual.
With those numbers you should be having difficulty starting when warm..
You might want to make a video about reading the Mazda or Racing Beat compression testing procedures, they're far less misleading
Also there is no point in testing leading and trailing, just test leading. Your leading results were probably higher because the engine had cooled by the time you got to them. In a rotary compression decreases with engine temperature.
Also most compression spec around here is in kg/cm2, which is close to, but not exactly equal to bar.
And also, be careful that adding adapters to the end of the gauge and removing the schrader valve doesn't add volume to the combustion chamber, rendering the compression reading lower than actual.
With those numbers you should be having difficulty starting when warm..
You might want to make a video about reading the Mazda or Racing Beat compression testing procedures, they're far less misleading
Thank you for the feedback, I'll make sure not to repeat the mistake in the Rotary compression tester video.
Yes, i will test the compression again using a rotary compression tester. I would've done it now, but the price + shipping + import tax makes the device very expensive.
So thank you again for the feedback, without it i couldn't improve.
BTW, is there any chance that you contact me on My facebook page, so that i can send future videos with delicate content to review before i post them ?
10-02-2017, 01:29 AM
#95
Hello my friend,
That hose goes to the back part of the manifold intake.
Hope is no the sound from the eccentric shaft scratching the bearing of the rotor. You said that sounds more when cold. Oil is also cold an I don't know which oil you are using.
That hose goes to the back part of the manifold intake.
Hope is no the sound from the eccentric shaft scratching the bearing of the rotor. You said that sounds more when cold. Oil is also cold an I don't know which oil you are using.
10-02-2017, 02:40 AM
#96
I think this is one of those unresolved issues, that even the internet has no answer to.
So have any of you guys encountered this noise and know how to solve it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEkVlLx7U7w&t=1s
So have any of you guys encountered this noise and know how to solve it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEkVlLx7U7w&t=1s
10-06-2017, 11:34 AM
#97
When the car is cold you can't hear the sound, but when it gets to operating temperature, you can hear the sound pretty well. If you go for a drive the sound gets louder, when you come to a stop.
When the car is moving, you can't hear the sound, when i stop and idle, you can hear it very well.
10-06-2017, 11:35 AM
#98
10-06-2017, 02:21 PM
#100