Hey man :D How can i forget your youtube avatar and name. Thanks! Will do

 

Here is my DYNO result.

 

Here's another maintenance how to for the new ones

 

For your dyno video, the results don't make a lick of sense. It's not a crank dyno, you're getting 187 at the wheels, which is reasonable. Also in your comments you say the torque and hp curve cross at 6-7000. That's not correct, they have to cross at 5250. All cars dyno curves cross at that point and there is nothing you can do to change it (except mess up the dyno session).

 

Well, i asked the dyno operator several times if it was at the crank or wheel, and he said crank... so that's what i can say as far as that dyno day.

I see, well i said that because on the graph they cross on aproximately that point. Thanks for the info, i'll make sure to put it in good use

 

The car's wheels are literally connected to the dyno, how could he say this was measuring crank horsepower?

The horsepower provided by the dyno is wheel horsepower, and 185 or so is very reasonable and quite normal for this car.

 

Dont' ask me... I'll go do a different dyno shop next time i'll have to measure.

If you say so, then i'm happy with the results

 

I finally put a decat on my rx8, and the Bangs you get are EPIC!

 

I think this is one of those unresolved issues, that even the internet has no answer to.
So have any of you guys encountered this noise and know how to solve it?

 

That sounds like your secondary air pump bearing.You hear it through the intake, but only because it channels the sound. Put one end of a wooden stick on the air pump and the other end to your ear, you'll know right away if it's the pump, because the sound will come from the stick.

 

Nope, it was not the air pump bearing, or anything connected to the air pump.

The sound comes from the tube connected to the OMP. We'll check it to see what's causing the noise.

Thanks for the input!

 

Ehm what tube connected to the OMP? Picture?

 

Yeah, I would imagine it's the wheel horsepower as well. Strange.

How do you even measure crank horsepower without tearing the engine out? You can't just assume the drivetrain efficiency.

As for torque, that's never the rotary's strong suit, but hey, at least we don't get the "more torque than your Mazda" treatment like Honda guys do.

Too bad I don't have a dyno around where I live.

 

This one

 

In other news, I finally went drifting and it was freaking AWESOME! :D

here's the video

 

Time for a back to school video

 

And after a long wait, here's my compression video!

 

upYou know, you're supposed to let the engine warm up to operating temperature for the test. Otherwise it will read higher compression than actual.

Also there is no point in testing leading and trailing, just test leading. Your leading results were probably higher because the engine had cooled by the time you got to them. In a rotary compression decreases with engine temperature.

Also most compression spec around here is in kg/cm2, which is close to, but not exactly equal to bar.

And also, be careful that adding adapters to the end of the gauge and removing the schrader valve doesn't add volume to the combustion chamber, rendering the compression reading lower than actual.

With those numbers you should be having difficulty starting when warm..

You might want to make a video about reading the Mazda or Racing Beat compression testing procedures, they're far less misleading

 

Thank you for the feedback, I'll make sure not to repeat the mistake in the Rotary compression tester video.

Yes, i will test the compression again using a rotary compression tester. I would've done it now, but the price + shipping + import tax makes the device very expensive.

So thank you again for the feedback, without it i couldn't improve.

BTW, is there any chance that you contact me on My facebook page, so that i can send future videos with delicate content to review before i post them ?

 

Hello my friend,

That hose goes to the back part of the manifold intake.
Hope is no the sound from the eccentric shaft scratching the bearing of the rotor. You said that sounds more when cold. Oil is also cold an I don't know which oil you are using.

 

take off the hose that goes to the omp injectors on the block and I think you will find the noise comes from there . It's a common noise that comes from the check valve vibration , I wouldn't worry about it.

 

When the car is cold you can't hear the sound, but when it gets to operating temperature, you can hear the sound pretty well. If you go for a drive the sound gets louder, when you come to a stop.

When the car is moving, you can't hear the sound, when i stop and idle, you can hear it very well.

 

Is there any documented or possible solution to this ?

 

Did you find the exactly hose were the noise comes?

 

I know it comes from the top hose of the 3 that go in the intake. I have not dug deeper into this.