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Make sure to use Loctite!

Old 12-16-2018, 10:50 AM
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Make sure to use Loctite!

So, this is a bit of horror story I just experienced with my rx8. So, for starters I purchased the car several months ago from a guy on Craigslist. The ad said fresh rebuild, new clutch, etc., etc.
Fast forward two months down the road, I start hearing a sort of chattering noise coming from the bell housing. Itís not crazy loud, the car drives fine. I check the forum, and see several posts about the throwout being noisy. I overlook it.
The noise persists and gets worse over the course of a few months, so I parked the car. I go to move it from where it was sitting to my house, and then the clutch gives out completely and the car will not come out of gear and I stall at the light. I somehow manage to get the car home.
I order a new clutch and have it towed to the shop to begin the replacement. A few hours later I had it apart and Iím about to remove the clutch. I go to loosen the bolts, and itís ******* wobbling. Now Iím confused, but I progress. Moments later Iím looking st the flywheel, and staring me dead in the face is a massive 54mm nut. THE NUT IS ABOUT TO FALL OFF, it is so loose the wind gusted and it hit the floor. The needles on the pilot bearing had been WELDED to the input shaft.
Inevitably I had to replace the rear main seal, machine the flywheel, and very carefully grind the pilot bearing off of the input shaft.
Let this be a reminder that the small things make a big difference, and that, yes, you should put Loctite on that bolt.
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Old 12-16-2018, 06:05 PM
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sorry that happened man. deffinatly a good warning though. all the guys at work think im crazy for using the blue goo. hope nothing else got put together so crappy on ur car.
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:43 PM
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More than likely failure to tighten up the nut properly in the first place......

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Old 12-21-2018, 10:02 AM
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Yeah that nut takes like 350lbft. Loctite is good insurance, but it's not moving if done right.

Sooo.. Hope you torqued it down.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:36 PM
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So a little update. I got the car put back together and it will not go into any gear while the car is running. It will row through every gear with or without the clutch while it is off.

The slave cylinder is moving properly, and Iíve bled it many times.
I just put in a new clutch and it still doesnít work.
I just replaced the transmission and it is giving me the exact same symptom.
The only part that hasnít been replaced is the master cylinder, but it doesnít leak fluid and engages the slave as it should.
The clutch pedal assembly does not appear to be broken. Iíve given it a thorough inspection, but have not removed it from the car.
I donít know what else to do, so if anyone has some helpful insight it would be much appreciated. Itís been nearly 6 months, and Iíd really like to drive my car again.
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:54 PM
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Obviously something ainít working... that sounds very strange.

In for final results.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:29 PM
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if the engine runs and the tranny shifts but doesnt move then id guess the engine isnt connecting to the tranny. did you replace the clutch? if so did the pilot bearing look ok? my 86 fc had that issue when the pilot was out for some reason. otherwise make sure nothings seised "open" to make it seem like you always have the clutch in
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:34 AM
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The clutch is brand new, 0 miles on it. (Exedy stage 1)
New pilot bearing, release bearing, pressure plate, machined flywheel as well.
I put in a used trans, with about 80,000 miles.
New slave cylinder.
Fresh gear oil in trans.
The clutch and pressure plate are installed correctly, I double checked everything when I swapped the trans.
If the car is running it will not shift out of neutral, as if there is a wall. If I try to force it, the engine will bog and then rev up to about 2k before dropping back to a steady 900.
Maybe I was sent a faulty clutch, or maybe my flywheel is too far gone even after machining?
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:03 AM
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Have you adjusted the throw of the pedal? Could be that with all the new components you're not fully disengaging the clutch even with pedal on the floor. There are two collar nuts on the pedal's push rod for adjusting throw.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:06 AM
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you might be on the right track with the flywheel thing, especially if you had it turned at a partshouse. you could check thickness against oe specs (id call a dealer to get the numbers). but usually that would only cause it to either slip or not move, id guess the not letting you into neutral is another issue. if the masters the only thing not replaced and everything else is verified good, i guess id go there before trying elsewhere
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Old 01-13-2019, 03:45 PM
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I took it apart once again today to have someone double check my work, everything was tight, in place, and lined up.
I have adjusted the pedal, in and out with no change either way.
I did get the car into reverse and first gear, but it stalled both times with the clutch to the floor.
Iíve jumped the connectors, and plugged it up to a scanner.
The scanner is showing the clutch switch activating (whilst not jumped) and that itís in neutral.
Iím hoping to find something soon.
The slave cylinder doesnít lose any pressure with the pedal on the floor, I had someone watch it while I wa s inside the car.
(I just read something about the upgraded clutch, potentially, requiring more pressure than the factory lines can handle. Causing them to balloon when depressing the pedal, in turn not allowing the disc to completely disengage)
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:21 PM
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Can you get the car into gear with the engine off?

If you can there is a problem with the clutch not releasing......and you are sure the release bearing is the correct one?
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:59 PM
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Jack up the car and then watch the clutch fork when you get someone to push down on the clutch


You should see it move significantly. If it moves just a bit the clutch still has air in it (likely) or the master is bypassing inside and you are getting no pressure. Do you feel some resistance when you push on the clutch pedal?

This is likely the worst clutch I have ever bleed... Using a pressure bleeder is the easiest way do get it done

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Old 01-16-2019, 07:06 PM
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The slave cylinder moves a solid inch or more while the clutch pedal is depressed. The slave cylinder doesnít lose any pressure while the pedal is depressed, either. I held it to the floor for a solid 30 seconds, and the slave didnít move a centimeter until I let off of the clutch.

Master cylinder, clutch fork, and braided clutch lines will be my next move. Iíll probably pick up a clutch pedal, too.

I talked to an associate that works at a transmission shop, and he recommended changing the fork. They were chasing the same problem and it was a bent clutch fork the entire time (not an Rx8, though). Which I am skeptical of, since both transmissions had the same problem it would be crazy to think that they were both bent. With it only being a $30 part, itís worth a shot.

Iíve also read that the extra weight of the upgraded clutch can cause the factory rubber hose to ďballoonĒ, not allowing enough pressure through the line to completely disengage the clutch disc. Also a cheap enough part, and preventative as well.

I bought the clutch as a kit, which included a throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch, and pressure plate. (Exedy Stage 1 organic). Unfortunately, due to work, the clutch was out of warranty before I even got a chance to put it in the car. (60 days from date of purchase for non OEM replacement, manufacturer warranty). Also, you can see where the throwout bearing is making contact with the clutch.

I appreciate all of the advise, so far. This currently has myself, my peers, and other automotive professionals in my area stumped. Then again, half of the time their solution is ďjust ls swap itĒ.

Last edited by Ak12gage; 01-16-2019 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:10 PM
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forgive me if im wrong but arent our stock clutches an exedy stage 1 ?
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