Travisx8

I have replaced every aspect of my clutch pressure plate throw out bearing shift Fork slave and master as well as a Russell new clutch line and can't regain full pressure no matter what I tried try pressure bleeding also but still unsuccessfull please help

CaymanRotary

You replace both the master and slave cylinders? You must have a leak somewhere.

Travisx8

How can I troubleshoot it to find where the leak is coming from

CaymanRotary

if it’s not an apparent leak, it could be an internal one that’s difficult to detect.

Travisx8

When you say internal leak are you talkin master or slave internal

CaymanRotary

Master. If everything is connected properly and there is no pressure, that’s what I would suspect is the issue.

Red line envy

I have had a master cylinder go out on my like that. Just lost pressure and never came back. And no leak. When I disconnected line that goes to the slave from the master and dribbled fluid into the master. While someone lifts the peddle to suck the fluid in. Then you apply pressure the fluid should come back out. If not it's lost its seal internally.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

more than likely you have air trapped in the new MC if it wasn’t primed before installation.

Travisx8

My master clutch cylinder came from AutoZone it's a Duralast product is it reliable

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

yes, everyone else overlooked it was new, but I didn’t

it likely has air trapped in the MC. You can use a pressure bleeder system to get it out. Or if you don’t have access to one then you need a second person to pump while you crack the line on the MC and have a bunch of rags under it to catch the mess because brake fluid is corrosive to paint, have the other person press the clutch pedal in (it should stay in/on the floor), tighten the line fitting, then pull the pedal back up. You may have to repeat this several times to flush the MC fully. You might also first tap lightly on the MC and the fluid supply line from the brake fluid reservoir prior to this to help clear any trapped bubbles out around there. In my experience once the air is removed from the MC the rest of the line and slave will essentially gravity bleed on its own (fluid reservoir is higher than slave bleed screw).

Also understand that until it’s fully bled and seated the pedal goes to the floor and stays there until you pull it back up. The MC actually doesn’t move that much fluid per stroke. So if you have slack between the slave and where the throw out bearing contacts the pressure plate it has to push in enough fluid to get it there. After that, it will engage the pressure plate and then the spring pressure from the clutch will push the pedal back all the way up.

CaymanRotary

Not personally a fan of their products to be honest. Most cheap Chinese made stuff that will work temporarily. If it’s brand new it should be working. TeamRX8 comes in with really good advice to try.

Travisx8

Okay starting over with a new master cylinder today can I pressure pump fluid into it through the reservoir hose prior to attaching hose to Reservoir or what is the best procedure to properly bleed it without getting air into it

ThomasThicc

I have the same issue. Mechanic bled it after I did and it only lasted about 2 weeks before i had nearly no pressure again. replaces master and slave, must be a leak somewhere.

Red line envy

I'll tell you how I bled my clutch but it's not pretty hahaha. I loosened the bleeder on the slave. Then stuck a hose on it. At this point keep in mind I've been fighting it for a while to keep pressure but there was always air left inside. I didn't have a vac bleeder of any kind and couldn't find on near by. So I sucked on the hose until I got a mouth full of brake fluid 🤣😂. And it's awful let me tell ya. But I tighten the bleeder screw back up and it's been good and solid ever since.

ps try at own risk and don't swallow 😉

schumithecat

google bench bleeding master cylinder. it is like priming a pump.

CaymanRotary

I didn’t. First thing I asked. If it’s brand new it should work. Team, your advice to bleed is spot on. OP should follow.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I feel your pain . Been through this and eventually used pressure on the brake mater cyl. reservoir and then it all of a sudden became easy as .

Travisx8

How do you use pressure on the brake master cylinder

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

That's a good question ..........TBH I'm a bit sketchy on it because it was many years ago but something like this :

Remove reservoir cap , place a piece of a plastic bag over the top of reservoir and refit the cap. This seals the cap.
Adjust pressure on your compressor regulator right down to pretty much as low as you can go with it . You only need 2-3 psi.
Fit silicone hose to master cylinder bleed nipple and connect up to compressor.
Crack open the bleed screw.
Bleed clutch the way you would do brakes. One person on the pedal .....one on slave cylinder.
Once clutch is all good remove plastic etc .
Bleed master cyl through bleed nipple in case you have air in that system .


A better way might be to just get hold of an extra cap and fit an air fitting to it ...but above is how I did it .

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I bleed my brakes a lot... so I made an adapter for my Motive pressure bleeder with an OEM cap that I closed the vent off..

It makes brake and clutch bleeding well worth the 30 minutes it took to make the part. Motive doesn't have an adapter in the usual kit that fits a Mazda cap. There is a BMW and Mercedes and some NAmerican adapters, but our Mazda cap is a no go.
They have a universal adapter that uses a plate and some u hooks... but it is more than a huge PIA and doesn't work very well